Topic: Help with Unknown Left Controls.

[jrrobertsjr]

I am rebuilding a CB750 that is a mutt of different parts.

Apparently the bike went down on the left side and broke the stabilizing pin on the inside of the left control housing.

This pin fit into a drilled out hole and kept the control housing from rotating. The one on the throttle side looks and works fine.

I am looking for another control housing like the one in the picture I am attaching.

Anyone out there able to tell me if they have one or where I might find one? I could work with just the bottom half if the pin is intact.

Also, can anyone tell me what year this control is from? Might help me in the search.

I apologize in advance for my ignorance but this is the steepest learning curve I have been on in a long time.

Johnny

[fang]

Good looking project Johnny.  Welcome aboard!  Sorry I still don't know the answer!

Peace and grease
-fang

[bill440cars]

           Glad to have you, I don't know the answer to your question about the control but I want to   ask you one.  Isn't that foam pipe insulation on the frame rails? If so, that is a cool idea to protect the paint job, powdercoat or whatever. Later on, Bill 

[jrrobertsjr]

Sure is, Bill.

I wrapped the lower frame to avoid scratching up the new powder coat. It was mainly for when the bike was on the lift.

Now that it is on new bearings, front and rear, it doesn't see much of the lift. Mostly the center stand.

I inch inner diameter seemed to work fine. Make sure you don't get the stuff with the adhesive tape. (That stuff really sticks.)

I have enough to wrap the entire engine cradle to avoid damage when the engine goes back in. (2009 at this rate.)

Thanks for the welcome.

Johnny out.

[eldar]

I have not seen that type of control unit before. Are you sure it is from a 750? Could be a different bike from the era as the 7/8 inch bars are pretty common.

[jrrobertsjr]

Ohh thats not good.

That's like hearing your Dr. saying that he hasn't seen your condition before.

I don't even know what the PA switch does. You can push it to the right and push it in to make another contact. I will look at it again tonight and get a few more pictures.

That is pretty much the status quo on this bike though. It was in really bad shape but I am a sucker and I could see the bike I wanted through the rust and grease.

Suggestions?

Should I start looking for another control and just replace it?

Dang it! Dang it! Dang it!

Fang, those controls you have are looking better all the time.

Johnny out.

[eldar]

Well, see what your pa button does I guess. You also do not have the horn button on the left hand control. I would almost think it was some type of enduro bike but maybe the control is from outside the USA.

[hcritz]

Hey Johny...
I think that may be a European control...
Some of them have flash to pass and other things that us Yanks aren't used to seeing!
Maybe one of they English or Aussie guys can clarify...

[Gordon]

Steve will hopefully chime in here to verify this, but I think the "PA" switch flashes the high beam letting someone in front know you want to pass, which makes it a Euro model switch housing.  Could be wrong, but seems like I heard that on this forum some time ago.

As far as the pin goes, I've always used aftermarket handlebars on my bikes which have no holes for wiring or the pin, so I pull the pins out.  As long as the housings are screwed down tight, they don't move even without them.     

I see that hcritz beat me to it, so now that's two votes for euro model.

[eldar]

Hey I mentioned it too! Well maybe not euro but out side the US. PA could stand for pass.
Isnt this a fun game!

[cben750f0]

looks like the left control i have on my F1.... exactly hope this helps... BTW its a '77...peace

[jrrobertsjr]

Oh boy. I am having the time of my life.....

Just kidding. If this was easy, everyone would be bringing bikes back from the dead.

This thing sat for 25 years. Unmoved and uncovered.

It was a total mess.

For some reason, I could see the bike I wanted under the rust and weeds.

Nothing has been easy though on this one. Everything I have touched has either crumbled to dust in my hand or been molested by the former idiot.... er... I mean owner.

I have had small successes followed by long periods of frustration.

I am obviously not wise enough to pick another running bike and I am way to stubborn to give up on this one.

So far it is a:

1972 frame that came with a 1974 locked up motor.

1978 motor acquired with a stripped #3 spark plug hole. The motor will need a compression test and paint not to mention a complete carb rebuild.

1976 front end.

1977 CB Hondamatic rear end and alloy rims.

Repro wiring harness from partsnmore.com for 73-75

I believe 75 electronics.

and last but not least, a 1977 F1 left control. (Thanks cben750f1)

I included a pick of my gauges that I rebuilt. I have since reset them to 00000.

It has been a great learning experience and I wouldn't trade it for anything.

When I am done with this one, I'll do another. The wife doesn't mind since she says it keeps me from crossing the street.

My biggest mistake so far has been not getting on this site sooner. I am really impressed with the amount of response to newbie questions.

A sincere thanks goes to you guys. I have been on other forums where you get nothing.

I won't hesitate to ask my questions here first next time before I consider using it for target practice.

Johnny

[Mark M]

It's a European L/H switch unit.
The PA is to flash the headlight - what puzzles me a little is the lack of a dip switch
Whish is normally a toggle type.
They are all the same over here on the CB400/4 CB550F and K and 750's.

[Slim_SLC]

Steve will hopefully chime in here to verify this, but I think the "PA" switch flashes the high beam letting someone in front know you want to pass, which makes it a Euro model switch housing.  Could be wrong, but seems like I heard that on this forum some time ago.

As far as the pin goes, I've always used aftermarket handlebars on my bikes which have no holes for wiring or the pin, so I pull the pins out.  As long as the housings are screwed down tight, they don't move even without them.     

I see that hcritz beat me to it, so now that's two votes for euro model.

dang, I wish I read that about the little pins a couple days ago.  I just successfully butchered the crap out of my left side switch housing with a dremel trying to make the control fit onto the aftermarket bar.....of course last night about 2 AM I noticed the damned pin. 

[Bodain]

I'm redoing a Yamaha RD 350 right now and decided to trash the ugly stock left control. Pick your bargains on ebay and you can find an almost new left control for a modern GSXR. The control looks like new. It only cost 15 bucks. They all fit 7/8 in bars. So all you do is figure out the wiring... The added bonus is you get a modern switch that just clicks off with the push of the button as opposed to needing to move the turn signal lever left and right...

I'll probably pick one up for the CB and do the same thing.

[bryanj]

500 and early 750 switch with the bottom half grooved to let the wires outside the bar. Main/dip should be on RH switch along with maybe an OFF position Pass type switch was 2nd generation. I can give you part numbers if you relly want.

[jrrobertsjr]

The wires were run internally on the original set of bars.

Since the clubman bars that I am using now have some pretty aggressive angles and are much shorter, I decided to run them external.

I made a cutout on the bottom of each side using a dremel and a template. Looks nice and seems to work.

I went to a local motorcycle meet last night and a guy there had built a chopper from scratch. He bought a CB750 and only used the motor and said I could come by and check out all the spare parts he had left over. His donor CB is of 1975 vintage so I am doing some investigation today and tomorrow to see if the controls will work.

I may or may not pick them up depending on the quality. My other option is a friend of mine that lives in Austin. A road trip may be in order.

Thanks for the info.

[bryanj]

As long as you get a "pair" of left and right from one bike/year you will be able to make them fit with reference to the correct year wiring diagram. You need a "pair" as Honda moved some functions from right to left and you need everything