Topic: Anyone ever use VHT engine enamel as a basecoat

[davidtime]

I am thinking of using VHT cast iron engine enamel on my 550 as a base coat and using spray max 2k clear over it. I know that they are compatible but I notice that the engine enamel gets air bubbles rather easy. I am planning on getting a better nozzle for the can when I do it and also heating the can for better atomization.

Anyone ever do this? I really love the effects of the cast iron paint. And would appreciate feedback on this.

[Dave Voss]

...and using spray max 2k clear over it...

I've used VHT paints before with good results, but I've never had good results with any clears where heat is involved (even clears intended for high heat) as they seem to always loose their clarity, either turning yellow or opaque.  I would recommend applying several light coats of your color of choice, but skip the clear altogether.

[davidtime]

...and using spray max 2k clear over it...

I've used VHT paints before with good results, but I've never had good results with any clears where heat is involved (even clears intended for high heat) as they seem to always loose their clarity, either turning yellow or opaque.  I would recommend applying several light coats of your color of choice, but skip the clear altogether.

I am actually going to use it on the tank, seat, HL bucket, side panels and possibly fenders. No heat involved but I do plan on curing the engine enamel before the clear goes on.

I may be going about it all wrong but I am stuck on the cast iron color and how it looks at different angles.

[Terry in Australia]

Be careful about not using heat to cure the engine enamel. Most engine enamels require heat to properly cure, and will stay "soft" until heat is applied. I used VHT engine enamel to paint an airbox once, and it never hardened. Cheers, Terry.

[davidtime]

I am actually going to cure it at 200 for 20 minutes. My main concern is wet sanding it because it is metallic. Hopefully using a better nozzle and heating the paint first I can get the coat on nicely and only have to wet sand and polish the clear. I really wish that the 2k clear lasted longer after activating so I can do a nice test job.

[Dave Voss]

I am actually going to use it on the tank, seat, HL bucket, side panels and possibly fenders.

Okay, sorry I misunderstood, thought you meant it would be applied to the engine.  VHT also makes a product line of spray paints intended for wheels, and there are many different shades of metallic silvers and greys, as well as clear coats, and these do not need heat cycling to cure.  I've also used these paints with good results, and they work best *with* a coat of clear over them, otherwise it can be hard to remove stains on lighter base colors, although for a cast iron look it may not be an issue.

[davidtime]

Do you know a good place to get the paints?

My tank isn't prepped all the way yet so I did a test on one side of it and sprayed 2 coats of the paint and one coat of an acrylic lacquer to see how it would come out and it seems fine. It was a pretty humid when I did though and the clear looked cloudy but if I get it done on a clear day with low humidity I think everything will work out fine.

[Dave Voss]

Do you know a good place to get the paints?

Out here in California, AutoZone carries VHT wheel and engine paint in spray cans.

[davidtime]

Do you know a good place to get the paints?

Out here in California, AutoZone carries VHT wheel and engine paint in spray cans.

Yeah that's where I get them as well. I grabbed some more paint and primer today so what the heck I'm just going to do it and hopefully it works out the way I imagine. Now if the humidity would just go away for a couple days I'll be happy.

I still have to fix some pinholes, give the tank the Caswell's liner, use rust reformer on some pitting, bondo and primer the tank.

[kghost]

The problem with curing engine enamel is bondo.

If you have filler in the tank when you bake it at 200 it does seem to cook the body filler.

Which then cracks or starts to separate from the tank.

I know.....I tried it once

[davidtime]

The problem with curing engine enamel is bondo.

If you have filler in the tank when you bake it at 200 it does seem to cook the body filler.

Which then cracks or starts to separate from the tank.

I know.....I tried it once

I read today that bondo can't work with the surface above 200.

Did you do it 200? Do you think 180 might work if I left it a bit longer?

And then I was thinking that the only reason that it needs to be baked is to give the protection against the chemicals but I am using spray max 2k over. What are your thoughts on that?

[kghost]

I dunno that I would bake it period.

From what I know the 2K is a urethane not a polyurethane.

I've never used the spray max. I've used the 2K  Nason range fron DuPont with good results.

If your talking stuff from a can......I've never seen anything out of a can that was fuel resistant. ( baked engine enamels not included)

[davidtime]

The 2k is a urethane and it comes in a can that has to be activated so the paint and hardener mix. I was just checking that 2k nason and it looks like it is the same thing and I've heard that it is fine if gas gets on it.

[kanook]

I just finished my bike and used Dupli-colors high temp cast iron paint on my motor. It turned out great I think. 600 miles and it looks as good as first sprayed

[davidtime]

Looks good. I also used it on my engine and had one trouble spot on the oil pan where I missed a spot of oil.