Topic: Rear wheel bearing install 750K3 question

[Duke McDukiedook]

Hey guys,
I just installed the SKF bearings on the rear hub and sprocket carrier while I was changing the rear wheel and brake shoes and I am putting back on the retainers on both but there was no mention of using loctite or any other kind of thread locker on these retainers to lock them down.
Is it OK to use red loctite for these?
I did not want to re-stake the retainers but if that is the best way to lock them I'll do it.
Hondaman's book did not mention either technique when I checked.

[lucky]

Hey guys,
I just installed the SKF bearings on the rear hub and sprocket carrier while I was changing the rear wheel and brake shoes and I am putting back on the retainers on both but there was no mention of using loctite or any other kind of thread locker on these retainers to lock them down.
Is it OK to use red loctite for these?
I did not want to re-stake the retainers but if that is the best way to lock them I'll do it.

I would just use blue Locktite. On those fine threads that should be enough.
With red Loctite it may NEVER come undone without heat.

[Duke McDukiedook]

OK, I gotta get some blue loctite then.

[disco]

Dry aluminium on aluminium binds. I  greased up my retainer threads well & then staked it so I have some chance of removing the retainer in future if necessary. I've had no issues so far.

[chewbacca5000]

Does anyone have pics of what the hub with the peens removed?  Not sue what size drill bit to use. Also to remove the retainer which way do you have to turn?

[flybox1]

Nah. Just a little bearing grease and re-stake it.
Honda obviously trusted the stakes 

[bollingball]

Does anyone have pics of what the hub with the peens removed?  Not sue what size drill bit to use. Also to remove the retainer which way do you have to turn?

What I do is get a bit that will go in the peen and is real snug then get the next size larger to drill. For the depth stick a pick in the hole and put your thumb nail on the pick flush with the retainer then remove it and look at how much was in the hole. Drill a tiny bit more than that. A shade tree depth gauge is some tape around the bit with a tail or flap When the tape hits the retainer the flap will brush a way the chips and you stop there. Or screw all that and get one of these. Make sure it has a depth gauge on the tail end.
http://www.sears.com/neiko-pro-quality-6inch-inch-digital-caliper/p-SPM7792401511?prdNo=39&blockNo=39&blockType=G39
Ken

[PeWe]

Why lock the retainer?
I had hard job last week to remove and restore after my old retainer locked in OEM style (punch mark). Did not help to drill, pure force to cut the soft retainer in 2 pieces and take it out. Then fix the threads, grind where the deep punch mark were and damaged the threads. Retainer is very expensive. This time greased with copper paste to make it easier to remove next time.

I cannot see how the retainer can move when the axis with distances will press everything together.

[chewbacca5000]

Does anyone have pics of what the hub with the peens removed?  Not sue what size drill bit to use. Also to remove the retainer which way do you have to turn?

What I do is get a bit that will go in the peen and is real snug then get the next size larger to drill. For the depth stick a pick in the hole and put your thumb nail on the pick flush with the retainer then remove it and look at how much was in the hole. Drill a tiny bit more than that. A shade tree depth gauge is some tape around the bit with a tail or flap When the tape hits the retainer the flap will brush a way the chips and you stop there. Or screw all that and get one of these. Make sure it has a depth gauge on the tail end.
http://www.sears.com/neiko-pro-quality-6inch-inch-digital-caliper/p-SPM7792401511?prdNo=39&blockNo=39&blockType=G39
Ken

Thanks this helps alot.  What direction do you go to remove the retainer to the left or right?

[HotCarl73]

i just did the rear bearings on my 750 K3 2 days ago. both retainers on the rear bearings were regular old righty tighty, lefty loosey just like almost every other nut, bolt and screw. it's been a while since i've done a front but i think it's the same way.

[chewbacca5000]

i just did the rear bearings on my 750 K3 2 days ago. both retainers on the rear bearings were regular old righty tighty, lefty loosey just like almost every other nut, bolt and screw. it's been a while since i've done a front but i think it's the same way.

Thanks for the info.  I might get up the nerve to give it a go by the end of the week.

[Duke McDukiedook]

Why lock the retainer?
I had hard job last week to remove and restore after my old retainer locked in OEM style (punch mark). Did not help to drill, pure force to cut the soft retainer in 2 pieces and take it out. Then fix the threads, grind where the deep punch mark were and damaged the threads. Retainer is very expensive. This time greased with copper paste to make it easier to remove next time.

I cannot see how the retainer can move when the axis with distances will press everything together.

Why did Honda stake the retainer? I am sure they had a good reason.
I figure there are only so many stakes you can put in these retainers so like Lucky said Blue Loctite is what I will try this go around.
I finally got the rest of the seals in so I can get everything put on and get this puppy back on the road again.
 

[bollingball]

i just did the rear bearings on my 750 K3 2 days ago. both retainers on the rear bearings were regular old righty tighty, lefty loosey just like almost every other nut, bolt and screw. it's been a while since i've done a front but i think it's the same way.

Thanks for the info.  I might get up the nerve to give it a go by the end of the week.

They are not hard to do. When you go to put the new ones on make sure you put the brake side on first and drive it in till it is flush NO FURTHER if you drive it in to far the sprocket side will not be able to go in far enough. Some one told me about this I would never do that 
Ken

[Duke McDukiedook]

Not sure if it is the new rear Roadriders or the new SKF bearings (probably a combination of both) but the rear definitely feels tighter and rolls much smoother now. Makes me want to change the bearings on the front over to upgrade but I have to continue working on the bathroom downstairs or feel the wrath of the missus.