Topic: My 750K8

[jpfrk2001]

Here is mine. This is what I started with:

Its been sitting for 3 years collecting dust. I spend 2 weekends working on it. Removed the carbs, sprayed down with some cleaner. Oiled up the filters that was on it. New oil filter, new oil, 93 octane fuel with seafoam to clean out the crap.

[jpfrk2001]

So the pics uploaded. The first few are were the bike is at. The last one is my other project Im taking a break from. I gotta figure out how to post and explain each pic as I go.

And today the starter just wants to spin and not crank. I have to use the kicker to start the bike. I was told it was a one way bearing that is dirty. The only way to clean it out, is to break down the motor, crack the case. I don't really want to do that right now. I just hope to enjoy the bike and ride. A full tear down/rebuild will happen sometime in the future.

Suggestions?

[jpfrk2001]

Bought some Marble Mystery Oil today. And I have some Seafoam at the house. Going to dump a little bit of both in the oil and see if that helps with the starter clutch. I don't want to crack a case right now. If I do that, then that means spending money and doing a big bore kit, head job, new stuff here and there. $$$

[deafcaferacer]

And today the starter just wants to spin and not crank. I have to use the kicker to start the bike. I was told it was a one way bearing that is dirty. The only way to clean it out, is to break down the motor, crack the case. I don't really want to do that right now. I just hope to enjoy the bike and ride. A full tear down/rebuild will happen sometime in the future.

Suggestions?

Not sure I understand what you are saying, but if you can easily fire up the bike using the kick start rather than the electric starter, then I'm very inclined to believe the problem is with the electric starter itself because as far as I'm concerned, it's 100x easier to fire up using the electric starter than the kick start.

[MoMo]

Repair of the starter clutch does not require engine removal, you have 3 springs and 3 pins that are bad (and maybe 3 rollers too).  All under the alternator...Larry

[jpfrk2001]

Repair of the starter clutch does not require engine removal, you have 3 springs and 3 pins that are bad (and maybe 3 rollers too).  All under the alternator...Larry

Oh, ok. Don't sound so bad now. I was actually in there yesterday. I just put it all back together today during my lunch break. I'll take a look at the FSM I downloaded and read up on it also.

Deafcaferacer: I want to say and was told it was the starter clutch. I can hear the starter mechanically turn and spin.

[jpfrk2001]

So whats the special tool to remove the starter clutch assembly?

[MoMo]

So whats the special tool to remove the starter clutch assembly?

I have the Honda tool (it is a large, tapered bolt that threads into the alternator)...Larry

[jpfrk2001]

So whats the special tool to remove the starter clutch assembly?

I have the Honda tool (it is a large, tapered bolt that threads into the alternator)...Larry

Where can I buy this tool? Thinking of getting ready for this job.

Getting some side work done on the bike. Fixing the short in the system. I kept blowing fuses. Next was getting the low beam to work. Found out it was actually in the switch itself in the control box. I took it apart, cleaned the contacts, then wedged in a small piece of folded paper to tighten it up. Then I verified all my tail light wires still work. All is good. Im not going to run these lights. I just used them to test it out.
Then I have to deal with the broken fairing. This made me upset. It got broke in the move last year. So I have some ideas up my sleeve to fix this my self.

[MoMo]

Put Honda CB750 alternator puller in google or bing and you'll get a bunch of results...Larry

[iron_worker]

I just bought an M20 x 1.5 bolt ... about 2" long would be all you need. The end of the bolt pushes on the snout of the crank while the threads pull off the stator. My method was to thread it in with my electric impact, give the end of the bolt a sharp wack with a hammer, hit it again with the impact, hammer end of bolt, etc. I think the hammering helps to break it free and helps to not gouge the end of your crank too much with the hardened bolt.

I should note that that particular bolt is not a common thread size. 1.5mm pitch threads is considered a "fine thread" in a bolt of that diameter. So, you may have to look around a bit.

I guess first of all someone should confirm that the K8 takes the same size. 

IW

[jpfrk2001]

I just bought an M20 x 1.5 bolt ... about 2" long would be all you need. The end of the bolt pushes on the snout of the crank while the threads pull off the stator. My method was to thread it in with my electric impact, give the end of the bolt a sharp wack with a hammer, hit it again with the impact, hammer end of bolt, etc. I think the hammering helps to break it free and helps to not gouge the end of your crank too much with the hardened bolt.

I should note that that particular bolt is not a common thread size. 1.5mm pitch threads is considered a "fine thread" in a bolt of that diameter. So, you may have to look around a bit.

I guess first of all someone should confirm that the K8 takes the same size. 

IW

I found the bolt online for 10 bucks plus shipping. I found replacement parts assemble for around 35 including shipping. Im going to runs some marvel mystery oil with seafoam, to see if that fixes it. I was told the bearing is just dirty and needs to be cleaned up. I already been inside that area, So I have a good idea how to get back in there and replace the unit now. Im learning as I go. Finally downloaded the FSM on my home computer for guidence. Don't want to Fawk anything up on this machine.

Thanks Guys!!

[jpfrk2001]

Just got a line on a complete front end, including the wheel off of a 2004 Yamaha R6!

Yes?
No?

I was told this is the ideal donor platform.

[jpfrk2001]

Any one about the choice of front assembly?

[jpfrk2001]

I guess I'll press on. I am going to try and fix that fairing. So I fired up the welder to get to work. Then I got my welding table ready. I then started welding the nut to the bolt on both sides. I turned the heat up all the way to get the temps up. I did both sides of the nut. I then used my angle grinder with a 60 grit flap disk and started to shape it up. set it next to my wire frame skeleton.

[jpfrk2001]

Then I bolt the fairing to my work bench so I can work on it. I then clamp the wire in its place and start applying resin with fiber glass. I just want to get the wire secured right now. I'll work on getting a shape later on.  Then I get the fabbed up new pin to the wire. Its really rough looking now. I'll work on it this weekend. I hope to get the begginings of something done by Saturday.

Next was to go into the points and do some TLC and see if anything needed replaced. I took the cover off and got a confused look on my face. WTF is this!!?? Martek 440? Off to google to find out what the hell this is! Looks like I don't have to worry about points ever again. And, it might explain why the bike fires right up when I touch the starter button or rest my foot on the kicker.. Im not complaining.

[antman180]

check out the reply from member 1080 :http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=50846.0
instructions for the Martek 440

[jpfrk2001]

Ordered some parts this morning. And, about to order more parts.

Question: What is the ratio of the OEM stock guages? I want to make sure I order the right ones from Dime City Cycles. Thinking of 1.9" Satin Black.

[jpfrk2001]

This bike is starting to turn into a basket case. I take the bike out for a quick 20 minute run down some roads. Trying to work the oil through the system. Now the tach quit working on me!! WTF?

So what could be the symptoms? Im thinking something in the head? where the tach cable connects to.

[jpfrk2001]

The internal cable broke. Oh well, Another part on the buy list.

Also, what year is the best donor GL1000 fork assembly? Been reading up on it. But I cannot find differences in years and changes in years. Want to make sure I buy the correct assembly. this is the route Im going.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

75-76 for the GL1000 bolts right up.

[jpfrk2001]

75-76 for the GL1000 bolts right up.

Thank you!!

Today, the tail light came in!! That means next week, the custom fab work begins!

[jpfrk2001]

I just scored a GL1000 front end from a 1976 model. So that tells me in what direction this bike is heading.

[jpfrk2001]

So, Im seeing a lot of ADD going on in this thread contributed by me. So I really got to thinking short term and long term with what path I want to take this bike to. I have some visions, but really nothing too locked down.

Sooo..

I want to get on the road riding in less then a month. So, Lets just get the rear fairing done, basic 3000 mile maintainence done. Get it title, Reg, and on the road. I've been holed up under a rock for 3 years working on my buggy. Im burn't out. I need a break. I want to ride and enjoy.

So...

With that said, this thread will cover the basics of a rear fairing fab up and on the road and basic maintenance. In the meantime, I will collect parts over time as my overall vision for the bike comes out in my mind. I have a superb foundation. I don't want to F' it up.

Fab time will start this 4 day weekend.

[jpfrk2001]

Update today. Happy 4th of July you all!!

At the house I currently have:
Clutch starter assembly
Bolt to press out old unit
Set of brand new NGK's
Brand new Clutch cable
Brand new RPM Cable
Better Fuel line
Resisters to run rear LED Tail light assembly(Still need to up load those pics)
All the raw material to FAB up my rear seat/fairing assembly. (Minus bondo and paint)

In the mail I have coming:
Front end assembly from 1976 GL1000
Rear swing arm from 1978 CB750SS (I going to a rear disk swap)
Complete front brake assembly from 1978 GL1000 (Duel front disk to come)

Finally figured out my paint scheme. I going off of a set of grips I found on the Dime City site I really like.
Going to slowly gather parts for a major changeover that may happen over a 4 day process (Maybe)
This is on top of the Maintenance required just to enjoy the bike.

I started the titling process. It basically comes down to, Im going with a bonded title. Its a rather long process. On the upside, I qualify for a temporary 90 Registration permit till the process is complete. I won't drop that request till the bike is 100% ready for the road. (Ok, more like 90% due to the bikes age).  I hope to have that done in less then 30 days, minus the final paint scheme.

Going to try and soda blast alot of parts and componants. I read up on that thread.

Unfortunatly today, Im stuck at work till 8 am tomorrow morning. Then I sleep/recover for another 22-24 hours. That means, I can't work on the bike till Saturday morning!

Happy 4th people.

[jpfrk2001]

Well, I thought I should get some pics up for you all. Just to prove im working on this thing. Basically, I got the rear tail light to work with. A lot of parts came in also:

New Spark plugs,
New Tach cable
New Clutch cable
My replacement clutch starter
Little odds and ends.

So, I was able to put some work into the left side fairing. Still not done. Gotta do the rest with bondo and shape it into place.  Then I moved on to the tail light mock up.

Started working with some metal and was able to build a bracket system for the tail light off the factory holes in the rear cross brace.

with this done, I just moved into bending and taching up wire. Just trying to come up with a shape. I mocked up the old seat assembly I had to get some ideas. Im not running this seat. I just don't like it and its to wide for my body structure.

[jpfrk2001]

I just continued to march on. At this point I was unsure I was going to get what I wanted.  Worst case, I just wasted a lot of raw material and I can start over. Its just labor

So I add more wire to this.

And a pic of my work space.

So I remove the tail light so I can really get in there. this is were I left off for today. I also have my Tach back to working. That was a easy component replacement. Oh, and funny thing happened. So, I had to use my kicker to start the motor because my clutch starter went out. On the bench in a box is my replacement unit with the bolt tool to remove. But, every day I go start the bike, I just hit the button to "Just see". And would you believe my clutch starter is now engaging!!! Who would of knew.

Anyways, I quess I am now collecting spares for the future.

[jpfrk2001]

I am still working on this thing. I got the rear LED light assembly fully working. All is good.

Then I got to working on the skeleton for the rear fairing. I know Im doing things a lot different then most here. Im just doing what makes sense to me.

First pic is what I ended.

then I went ahead and added more wire, Removed it from the bike to finalize the skeleton.

Then I added a piece of 1/4" ply wood for the seat. This will get foam padding and covered in vinal. Wired the light back up, then went for a ride. Found out the 87 octane I was running was not setting nicely with the motor. Drained the tank of the 87 crap, refilled with 91 octane with a splash of seafoam, and she was running like a rapped ape again.

Now its time to go get my 90 day temp registration and start putting some real miles on her. I want to add 25 more miles for its next oil change(50 miles total). Change spark plugs. Then do 100 miles, oil change, 250 miles oil change.

gotta flush the system.

And this build might make a turn. Just get the bike running and enjoy. Im thinking of building a mid 70's CB550 with a bunch of serious mods.

[jpfrk2001]

A quick update. No pics. Gotta get those pics up. I went and got my 90 day temp registration. I then hobbled together a license plate mount under the rear tail light. It was actually a quick easy job. Now I have a place to stick my temp sticker to and RIDE!!!

I took it for a 25 mile shake down run on the actual HWY with a buddy with me on his bike. He was able to move around me and monitor my bike. All went well except the one mount link of the plate bracket broke. And I had a dirty connection on my selonoid. I fixed that all up, put more bracing to the license mount bracket. Did a oil change, new filter, brand new plugs.

Next day, I did a 50 mile to Tombstone for a quick snack. Then I rode back. I was hitting speeds around 90 at times. The bike ran ALOT smoother with the new plugs and a bit more power as well. I was really amped up and feeling good.

So, On Monday, I wanted to ride to work and back. That is a 25 mile round trip for one day. Rode into work. All sounded and felt great!! Parked at work in the Motorcycle parking only spots. I started to walk away and noticed a fluid substance dripping from my bike!? Now before this, she didn't leak a drop of nothing! Went to look and it was fuel!! Found out the float bowl gasket on Number 2 decided to let go. Loaded it on a trailer and ordered parts.

Parts came in last night, 4 brand new float bowl seals. Figure if one went out, the other 3 would follow shortly. Yeap, all the old seals look like they were all dry rotted. Internals looked not to bad. Im going to do a full on carb rebuild later in the near future. I put it all back together last night and went for a test run. All is fine now. But, now Im stuck at work on a 24 hour shift!! So no riding this weekend