Topic: HELP, Can't remove screw at bottom of front fork

[jeff kushner]

I'm stuck guys working on my 400F. I've removed the forks and tried removing the bottom bolt that secured the damper rod and it just spins. I first tried with the cap and oil still in, no luck. Then, I removed the cap and oil and still no luck, it just spins even with I put my allen key into my variable speed drill motor. I can't separate the upper and lower tubes without removing this screw!

Any words of wisdom? My plan was to remove the upper and lower fork tube, refinish the top tube, replace the seals and reassemble so this is a big kink in my weekend plans.
I'd really appreciate any help at all.

jeff

[flybox1]

the power of Google Custom Search...

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=26595.msg272091#msg272091

[Powderman]

Just had this issue myself. The recommendations given to me were to cut a broomstick the appropriate length and  after removing the spring replace it with the stick and replace the end cap nut. Often the screw is put in using some sort of LocTite,put a propane torch to the screw and it will loosen the LocTite. Both worked for me.

[KennyRedman]

If you have access to an air impact wrench, that'll do the trick. It's what I had to do and took it right out.

[MoMo]

If you have access to an air impact wrench, that'll do the trick. It's what I had to do and took it right out.

or an 18v impact(I love my Makita-has enough torque for most jobs and is way quieter than the air compressor)  with the spring in and cap on.  I usally have the tube out so I can compress it a bit more by holding the cap against the floor and pushing down....Larry

[bjbuchanan]

I drilled the head off of mine, then the stuff separates and the remaining bolt usually comes out real easy bc it isn't all corroded up in the fork

You can source the allen head bolts easily at any Home depot or hardware store. Took all the headache out for me, not to mention mine was stripped to hell before I ever came near it

[bollingball]

If you have access to an air impact wrench, that'll do the trick. It's what I had to do and took it right out.

+1
 If you work on this stuff long enough nothing beats air tools. A 7.5hp (belt drive) 80-100gal. tank for a small shop is all you need for paint or tools.Air impact wrench will zip it off in a heart beat. You still want some pressure on it from the spring or broom stick to make it that much easier. I don't have a noise issue I put the compressor outside in its own shelter and plumb the lines inside. Plus a belt drive is better on the ears than a direct drive and I put mine on heavy rubber pads a mounting kit that IR has.
Ken

[jeff kushner]

THANK YOU  a thousand thank you's! The broomstick trick worked perfectly after heating the bolt with my torch....I learned a new trick with this! I honestly can't count the number of engines I have built over the years but I've always shied away from forks....I rebuilt the forks on my Vstrom a couple of weeks ago so I figured this would be a snap and it was, right up until that bolt started spinning....
thanks again guys, that what these forums are so great about....you can post up when you're stuck and the guys will come to your rescue....

jeff

[kghost]

Don't forget the washer on that bolt. It's a little crush seal

[jeff kushner]

Yup, it stuck to the lower forks on both sides but I knew it was there so I'm good to go....heat, treat and reuse!

jeff

[toytuff]

Don't forget the washer on that bolt. It's a little crush seal

+1.

Replace the one on the side also. (drain)

I always replace the bolt and washer on my builds. Bolt can be ordered from Honda or I can send you an old one.

No worries. Heat it up with a propane torch if you have one.

tt

[jeff kushner]

I always replace the bolt and washer on my builds. Bolt can be ordered from Honda or I can send you an old one.

No worries. Heat it up with a propane torch if you have one.

tt
[/quote]

I appreciate the offer TT but I have a B tank so I'm good to go.

jeff

[Dave Voss]

For future reference, I've had very good luck using a hand held impact driver with the correct hex bit, while the fork is still fully assembled, as the combination of the installed (and slightly compressed) spring, and the strike of the impact driver, typically loosens those fasteners without any issue.  Then, remove the top cap, drain the fluid, remove the spring, and proceed with dismantling the rest of the fork.

[kghost]

Then, remove the top cap, drain the fluid, remove the spring, and proceed with dismantling the rest of the fork.

Yes....my usual method is.......

Remove bolt, drip old nasty smelly fork oil all over my shoes.....

Then remove the top cap and drain......

[asbissonnette]

I had this same problem, I found that the top fork tube has to be in and cap on. The allen bolt isn't actually screwed into the fork, it goes through and screws into the Oil Lock, which is a cylindrical piece that sits inside the fork. It isn't attached to anything and can rotate freely if there isn't any pressure. So if there isn't the pressure of the big spring and fork tube sitting on top of the lock (holding it in place), then turning the allen bolt is only going to turn the oil lock with it - which is why it is free to turn an unlimited amount of times without coming out. Once you put the fork tube back in, it will hold the oil lock while you loosen the allen bolt and voila.

[Bru-tom]

yep, i used the broomstick method

the washer you guys speak of? can i use a normal copper washer?

[Powderman]

yep, i used the broomstick method

the washer you guys speak of? can i use a normal copper washer?

Answered in your other post, they are copper crush washers.

[Bru-tom]

yep, fanx 

[Dogle@ogleservices.com]

I had to PULL on my fork tube with lots of pressure (like I was trying to take it out) and keep pulling, to get enough resistance for the bolt to catch and stop spinning, while I used an impact driver with a long Allen wrench.

The allen head stripped out on my other fork bolt!  I had to drill the head enough to get a big easy out in there to catch.  Then I used the pull technique to et it out the rest of the way.  Yes. It took 2 people, one to apply pulling pressure, and another to work the impact driver with the easy out.

[robvangulik]

I had to PULL on my fork tube with lots of pressure (like I was trying to take it out) and keep pulling, to get enough resistance for the bolt to catch and stop spinning, while I used an impact driver with a long Allen wrench.

The allen head stripped out on my other fork bolt!  I had to drill the head enough to get a big easy out in there to catch.  Then I used the pull technique to et it out the rest of the way.  Yes. It took 2 people, one to apply pulling pressure, and another to work the impact driver with the easy out.

By pulling you can indeed put some tension on the bolt, but by pushing the forkleg in against spring pressure you can get far more tension and put force in the same direction as the impact wrench.
And when the allen head is stripped just drill the head completely off, you can then take the forkleg apart and most of the time you can turn the bolt stump out by hand!

[Gordon]

Zombie thread alert! 

[nickfarrowdesign]

Zombie thread alert! 

Yep, love it, it's also helped me out too!

Sent from my SM-A515F using Tapatalk

[desertrefugee]

Zombie thread alert! 

Lol. Who cares!!?  It's relevant and helpful. Good tips here. (I hate fork jobs).

[kghost]

Zombie thread alert! 

Lol. Who cares!!?  It's relevant and helpful. Good tips here. (I hate fork jobs).

I replied 9 years ago give or take...