Topic: Teardown today. AAAAAARGHH.

[mono]

You can get a full o-ring kit from harbor freight for about 7 bucks.  Has all the orings you need for carbs and extras for other stuff.  It's the one in the blue box.

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[dave500]

ive painted them with anti rust silver before,they never were from the factory though?cost cut or magnetism inhibitor?

[Bankerdanny]

I bought a box of metric o-rings from Advance Auto that had rings for those connections and the float bowl drain screws.

[desertw0lf]

So I've been looking for some triple trees that aren't so godawful ugly that I can run some 1" risers on. No luck so far. I called DCC to see if their billet trees could be drilled out for 3.5" center to center (harley style) riser holes and was told that it would be WAY too tight. Very sad. Guess I will have to go get a HD Narrowglide front end and have a custom CB550 style stem cut for it.

[Kframe]

I got all the O-rings to rebuild all 4 carbs for under $10 total.

From the FAQ section:

Carb main jet, float valve seat and bowl drain screw O-ring Sizes for CB350F, CB400F and CB550.

"Carb O-rings"

When rebuilding carbs on the old Honda fours with press-in main jets,
 you will often find that all the metal parts are fine after a good cleaning,
 and all that you really need to buy are new O-rings. Honda doesn't sell the individual O-rings separately....
instead you have to buy a complete carb kit at $10 to $15 per carb. I found an industrial O-ring supplier
 who was willing to do small-volume counter sales, and was able to get new O-rings at about 50 cents per carb. Sizes are:

Main Jet: 1.2mm cross-section x 3.5 mm ID

Float Seat: 1.5 mm cross-section x 5 mm ID

Float Bowl Drain Screw: AS568-009 (7/32" ID x 11/32" OD)

I found an O-ring supplier online, theoringstore.com and you can buy as few as one at a time. 
Unless you have major corrosion going on, the brass bits in carbs usually are okay if cleaned. 
It's the rubber that really needs replacement.

[desertw0lf]

Couple questions, every gasket kit I find is to end only. Its there a complete motor gasket set to be had anywhere?

The boots and plug wires look shot. The could probably need replacing. I'll probably go with an aftermarket ignition..

The controls on the bars included what looked like a starter button. What is its purpose? Can it be removed or do I need to add one in the new harness?


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[goldarrow]

Couple questions, every gasket kit I find is to end only. Its there a complete motor gasket set to be had anywhere?

The boots and plug wires look shot. The could probably need replacing. I'll probably go with an aftermarket ignition..

The controls on the bars included what looked like a starter button. What is its purpose? Can it be removed or do I need to add one in the new harness?


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any gasket set like this will do, shop around for other prices. 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-1974-1978-CB550K-F-Vesrah-Top-End-Gasket-Kit-/200928690220?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec848802c&vxp=mtr

also make sure you get a rubber pucks set along with those gaskets.  vesrah makes them too but I have only seen them handful of times

[desertw0lf]

OK so trying to get the floats out of the carbs so that they can soak in pinesol for a while before soda blasting. However, the float pivot pins are STUCK in the towers, and I know that these older carbs break there if you use any kind of force. I've applied carb cleaner to the pins and no beans. Any suggestions?

Also which direction do they push out?

[desertw0lf]

Got my carb rebuild kits in today, neato!

They have all the O-rings included, shipped directly from Japan.

The float bowl gaskets are round, and not made-to-shape like most other carburetors that I have owned, any particular reason? How the hell do you fit them to the bowls and then keep them from popping back into circles and pinching when putting them back together?

[Kframe]

 People usually use some heavy grease in the channels and since it's so gooey it hangs onto the o-ring long enough to get the bowl on.
The colder the carbs and grease the better.

[goldarrow]

OK so trying to get the floats out of the carbs so that they can soak in pinesol for a while before soda blasting. However, the float pivot pins are STUCK in the towers, and I know that these older carbs break there if you use any kind of force. I've applied carb cleaner to the pins and no beans. Any suggestions?

Also which direction do they push out?

read here.  and be very careful on those pin posts, very delicate. 
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=118779.0;nowap

[goldarrow]

Got my carb rebuild kits in today, neato!

They have all the O-rings included, shipped directly from Japan.

The float bowl gaskets are round, and not made-to-shape like most other carburetors that I have owned, any particular reason? How the hell do you fit them to the bowls and then keep them from popping back into circles and pinching when putting them back together?

once you're ready to put to bowls back on, here's what I did.  dab of oil, grease, or something so that the oring is lubricated.  put on the bowl and line up 2 adjacent corners.  mount on to the carbs and screw on, leave about small gap on the opposite 2 corners, now slide small piece of thin plastic piece in there, poker card should work great, then use it to push and slide the oring onto the groove all around as you close the gap, put the other two screws on and you're done.  easy

[desertw0lf]

Carb bodies soaked for eight hours in pine-sol. Sprayed down in sink with hot water afterwards.

Results:





Does anyone know how to get this sucker apart? I had to wiggle the carbs free and get creative, but I know that this is supposed to come apart. Everything moves on the shaft, and the shaft itself moves, but it's like something inside the two end collars is locking it in place. It wiggles a mm or so back and forth. How do I get this sucker OUT?

[desertw0lf]

People usually use some heavy grease in the channels and since it's so gooey it hangs onto the o-ring long enough to get the bowl on.
The colder the carbs and grease the better.

What kind of grease? Wouldn't it be kind of bad for any of it to get into the bowls itself and whatnot?

[goldarrow]

while you already have everything apart, don't forget to take the needles and emulsifier tubes out

CB550 Slide and Needle Jet Removal

[desertw0lf]

So, can any one identify this? Was told when I got bike that it needed replacing but forgot WTF it was.


 

 

 

Thanks guys
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[dave500]

its whats left of the safety starting unit?

[desertw0lf]

its whats left of the safety starting unit?

Its it necessary? I'm going with bare minimum wiring in this build and was going to use this schematic, without the horn, and possibly just a toggle switch instead of keyed ignition if i can figure that out, perhaps with only rear signals added and don't see this part in there at all.

 

Thanks for your help.

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