Topic: Modern oil & oil change intervals?

[thep1pe]

Giver that modern synthetic oils are far superior to the 70's oil technology, what mileage should you change your engine oil at? I still change mine at 1500 miles but at 38 UK pounds for 4 litres I was thinking of saving some cash & upping the mileage between changes to 2000 or more. Anyone else changing oil past the 1500 recommend interval?
Not starting another "oil thread" on car v motorcycle oil quality just interested if anyone has done more miles between oil changes.
1976 CB550f using high quality 10/40 full synth oil.

[TwoTired]

Yeah, that would be nice.  However, the additive package that makes the oil behave like a thicker oil when hot breaks down whether the base stock is synthetic or a refined petroleum.

The multi vis additive is made up of long chain molecules that change their length with heat, thus effecting viscosity.  Transmission gears and or clutch friction discs chop these up and the result is just the base stock behavior, or the first number in the viscosity rating.

I find that my 550s "tell me" when to change oil by making the trans shift less smoothly and the clutch begins to drag, making the selection of neutral difficult when stopped.  This happens sooner in hot weather operation or later in cold, but at about 1200 miles it begins to show undesirable behavior.  An oil change makes it all better.  I'm using semi-synthetic, now.  But, I've tried both petro and full synth.  The later I like because it survives and still lubes when over temped.  So, for cost reasons, I just use semi synthetic, and let the bike tell me when to change it.

[crazypj]

Use Rotella 5w/40 with some added ZDDP, it should be available in Britain without any problems and is massively cheaper than Honda oil (which is probably re-badges Castrol?)
s mentioned, the transmission gears really chew the oil up, I can only get about  1000 miles in XS 650, but, that is also an 'all ball bearing' motor so point contact pressure is much higher and breaks oil down quicker

[CoachDoc]

I'd stick with 1000 mile intervals, synthetic (without friction modifiers) if you can afford it. IMO frequent oil changes are essential with these high revving wet clutch old machines.

[RAFster122s]

The heat and dirt will change the oil color as it breaks down if you are not running and additives (general wisdom is don't run additives). So, visually and in practical operation you will know it is performing at reduced efficiency as time carries on. 1200 to 1500 is not bad considering...

[trueblue]

FWIW, the 650's had a 3600 mile service interval

[KRONUS0100]

hmmmmmmmmm  run 15w-40 rotella in one motor 3000 between changes
and run 20w-50 valvolene in another same interval.  bike will tell you if you're listening when its time for new oil

[bjbuchanan]

I use the same cues for changing the oil as others, the shifts aren't as smooth and neutral is tougher to find

[TwoTired]

The heat and dirt will change the oil color as it breaks down...

I read that piston ring blowby carbon contributes toward oil darkening.   The carbon particles are abrasive, and the oil filter mesh is too large to effectively block all of them from passing through.

So, it probably matters how rich your engine is tuned, how much you operate with the choke on.   Variables.
Kind of fits with the 650's extended interval, as that machine was delivered with lean burn carbs, and later, even more efficient and fuel stingy CV carbs.

Perhaps the theory that better MPG also allows extended oil changes, has some merit?

[Xnavylfr]

If you are REALLY worried about change intervals!! Run 1000 miles and change just filter and top it off.. The average for FULL SYNTHETIC is around 3000 miles (V-TWIN)
1600cc but I talked with a SEASONED V-TWIN mechanic since the 50s and he said you can run the NEW TECH!!! SYNTHETIC out to 5000 before a change is needed!!!


Xnavylfr(CHUCK)

[crazypj]

Totally dependent on oil in transmission shared with engine or separate transmission oil.
I add 2oz of ZDDP per gal as the 'optimum' level was figured out to be 17~1800ppm but has been reduced to around 1200ppm as it destroys catalytic converters (above 2200ppm it actually causes corrosion/wear problems)
 EPA/CARB (I forget which) dictates 'cats' could be changed under warranty  for 5 yrs and manufacturers don't want THAT expense

[grumpy]

I use the same cues for changing the oil as others, the shifts aren't as smooth and neutral is tougher to find

Same here.
For me that's ~1,200mi on Rotella 15-40. I change the filter every other time.
I just switched to Amsoil 10-40 and I'm at 1,000 on the first try. Still feels great. Better than new Rotella. We'll see how long it lasts.
I commute on the 750 so I do ~350mi/week. Extended change intervals would be great for me.

[ofreen]

just interested if anyone has done more miles between oil changes.
1976 CB550f using high quality 10/40 full synth oil.

I have no experience with CB550s, but I have a '75 CB750 that as of today I have had for 36 years.  It now has over 143,000 original miles on the engine.  I use Spectro 20W50 conventional oil and change it every 3000 miles, with a filter change every other oil change.  There was a time when the change interval was 4000 miles.  A look at my record shows I have been using Spectro since 1998 when the bike had 62,000 miles on it. I have occasionally used 10W40 when the oil change came in the fall, as I ride the bike almost year around.  The engine still doesn't use enough oil between changes to require topping off.  The oil in it currently has around 1500 miles on it.  I rode in stop and go traffic on the freeway a couple of days ago coming home from work when it was 106F. I think I felt the effects of the heat more than the engine did. It shifted fine and selecting neutral was normal. Needless to say, I think Spectro is decent oil. 

[crazypj]

I don't know if the wet sump 550 give oil a harder time than the dry sump sohc 750 or if it's just 550 has to be ridden 'harder' because of smaller motor?

[ofreen]

I don't know if the wet sump 550 give oil a harder time than the dry sump sohc 750 or if it's just 550 has to be ridden 'harder' because of smaller motor?

I don't know either.  You got a lot of miles out of your 550.  What was your oil change regimen?

[RAFster122s]

I think another factor in the equation is type of mileage the bike sees when it is ran. A commute of 20 minutes or more will have the ability to heat the motor and oil to levels that keep the moisture in the oil down or eliminate it all together. This will contribute to longer life between changes being possible. Short trips will be harder on the motor and have more moisture possible because of condensation. +1 on what TwoTired has said about the contaminants from combustion, etc.  Acids will develop in the oil from combustion byproducts and moisture...this is another factor that should drive oil change intervals. This and time are factors in these buildups.

[dave500]

the transmissions dont really chomp up the oil anymore than say the timing case gears on a heavy duty diesel engine,dont forget in the transmission only a pair of gears are loaded plus the primary reduction,the non selected gears just drift along,so its not like the trans is an oil mushing machine(as it looks) but its still to be taken into account.

[crazypj]

I don't know if the wet sump 550 give oil a harder time than the dry sump sohc 750 or if it's just 550 has to be ridden 'harder' because of smaller motor?

I don't know either.  You got a lot of miles out of your 550.  What was your oil change regimen?

 Longest I ever went without oil change was down to South of France and back, around 2~2,200 miles in 2 weeks.
Usually it was a max of 1,500 miles.
Tried several different oils, didn't like Castrol.
Used Duckhams Q20/50 for years but bike needed a decent warm up or top would pop off oil pressure switch

[dave500]

oh oh,oil brand names = oil thread,,i use castrol rx super 15/40 in all but our little cat equipped hyundai,99 bucks in 20 litre drums from any truck supply outlet,,while your there,, other things like globes/fuses/electrical tape and seven inch h4 housings are surprisingly cheaper than youd expect,cable ties and bling acorn nuts/led flashers/markers and static reflectors etc,,truckers dont take no #$%* parts man!and some ride bikes!

[ofreen]

oh oh,oil brand names = oil thread,,

I know what you mean, Dave, so I am careful to say Spectro is good (actually great) oil, but I don't say it is the best.  Of course, if someone knows what the best oil is, I want to know.

[Xnavylfr]

CATS?     WHAT motorcycle has a CAT CONVERTER you have to worry about?


Xnavylfr(CHUCK)

[jamman718]

Do you always change the filter or like every other time?

[Duke McDukiedook]

Filters are cheap compared to oil, I change them every time I change the oil.

[TwoTired]

I have no experience with CB550s, but I have a '75 CB750 that as of today I have had for 36 years.  It now has over 143,000 original miles on the engine.

Curious, apart from a Vetter fairing to redirect more airflow onto the engine cooling fins, have there been any other deviations from stock configuration?   

[ofreen]

I have no experience with CB550s, but I have a '75 CB750 that as of today I have had for 36 years.  It now has over 143,000 original miles on the engine.

Curious, apart from a Vetter fairing to redirect more airflow onto the engine cooling fins, have there been any other deviations from stock configuration?

I installed a K&N air filter bought from Honda of Anchorage in 1981 or 1982, a Dyna S has been on there since 1990. I installed a Jardine exhaust in 1995 and  and I run a 18-tooth countersprocket instead of the stock 17. That's about it.

I've heard claims that fairing lowers may direct more air to the engine, but not the fairing by itself.  I've never had the lowers.  Vetter used to make a lot of claims for the Windjammers, but I've never heard that one.  I guess I could put a windtunnel on my list of projects.