Author Topic: 76 550 - No power (Read 3513 times)

evo42 · « **on:** July 11, 2013, 08:39:25 AM »

I discovered my ignition switch lost its two brown wires but the red and black are still connected (just ordered new one). Brand new battery, no power when I turn the key. I do get 12v at the coils and at the fuses.

I removed the switch and put a jumper on the red and black connectors on the harness, still no panel lights. I should get the oil and neutral lights at least shouldnt I? Can I make an attempt to fire-up the bike with the jumper in place with no panel lights?

I installed a new headlight this past winter, my guess is that something isn't right in the bucket. I'll also be scrubbing the fuse holders, they're tight but a little rusty.

Any feedback/direction appreciated...

LesterPiglet · « **Reply #1 on:** July 11, 2013, 08:42:46 AM »

Brown/white feeds the panel lights and clocks, have a look at those inside the bucket. Won't do any harm starting it without them as long as your oil pump is working.

evo42 · « **Reply #2 on:** July 11, 2013, 06:16:13 PM »

I checked the bucket, all wires are connected to their matching color. I have one brown/white going into a two-connector brown-white. I put the jumper on black/red and tried to kick start. Absolutely nothing. I cleaned-up the fuse holders with some sandpaper too.

I guess I'll start looking for power along the system. It still bothers me that I don't get any lights with the jumper on black/red...

evo42 · « **Reply #3 on:** July 15, 2013, 12:46:09 PM »

New Ignition switch arrived today. Plugged in and still nothing. Battery is on the charger all the while.

So check power at the battery with: Key off, switch off. Key on switch off. Key on and switch on.

Anything else I'm missing?

tomkimberly · « **Reply #4 on:** July 15, 2013, 02:12:56 PM »

Fuses?

evo42 · « **Reply #5 on:** July 16, 2013, 06:56:01 AM »

Fuses are good, I even pulled on the end caps to see if they were bad that way but they're solid. I used sandpaper to clean-up the contacts too.

Bankerdanny · « **Reply #6 on:** July 16, 2013, 08:14:49 AM »

Do you have power going in to the switch?

Xnavylfr · « **Reply #7 on:** July 16, 2013, 08:26:52 AM »

How OLD is your battery??? Remove the charger and read VOLTAGE on the Battery. A fully charged battery should show 13+ volts without a load on it. If you read less WITHOUT the charger hooked up, your battery could be shot and each time you turn your key on it pulls ALL the power it has.

Xnavylfr(CHUCK)

evo42 · « **Reply #8 on:** July 16, 2013, 08:58:42 AM »

I have not yet checked power to the switch but I'll do that after the battery check with key/switch on/off.

The battery was purchased in January, it came home and went on the trickle charger and has been on since.

I'm on my way out to have a check on these items, I'll post back what I find. I'd be very happy if it were my battery and not that nest of wires in the bucket...

Bankerdanny · « **Reply #9 on:** July 16, 2013, 10:14:06 AM »

A trickle charger or a battery tender? A trickler charger is intended to top a battery off slowly, not maintain a charge over an extended time frame. If your battery has been on a trickle charger for 7 months you could very well have killed it.

But back to the switch. If you replaced it and still don't have power then you (a) don't have power to the switch or (b) have a break in the wire from the switch to the fuse panel.

evo42 · « **Reply #10 on:** July 16, 2013, 10:39:03 AM »

I had only 5 volts on the battery. Its on the charger now vs the tender. Once I get this straightened out I'll move to the next tests which should be the switch and fuse panel.

Thanks!

evo42 · « **Reply #11 on:** August 01, 2013, 12:15:04 PM »

After a charge the most the battery showed was 10.6v. Even with that shouldn't I at least get panel lights? I understand thats not enough to fire the bike. I should be able to test the stop/run switch and other areas of the bike with this lower voltage?

LesterPiglet · « **Reply #12 on:** August 01, 2013, 12:18:25 PM »

Your going to need a battery anyway so get one and remove that variable.

evo42 · « **Reply #13 on:** August 04, 2013, 02:47:08 PM »

OK, new battery installed (12.6 out of the box) and I have Oil and Neutral lights! The headlight is off, need to test that bulb. High beam and signal lights not operating. Signals not hooked-up currently. I assume the HB light wont light if the bulb is dead.

I hit the starter button and it slowly cranked but didn't fire. Kick-starting didn't help but I noticed the oil light goes off after a few kick attempts. I get 11.6 volts with key on/off with starter switch on run/off. If I wait a moment then I get the oil and neutral lights on next key turn.

I may throw some new fuses at it. I'll also need to investigate the ignition switch as I installed new bars this past winter and had to dremel the case to run the wires outside of the bars.

Any other next steps appreciated. I am pounding the search function and am reading all I can and have downloaded a few wiring diagrams to study.

LesterPiglet · « **Reply #14 on:** August 04, 2013, 03:04:37 PM »

Slowly cranking with a new battery doesn't sound good. Has this bike been running fine previously?

evo42 · « **Reply #15 on:** August 04, 2013, 07:17:03 PM »

Bike was seized when I got it last year. New plugs and wires since then. It hasn't run in my possession yet.

LesterPiglet · « **Reply #16 on:** August 04, 2013, 07:27:30 PM »

Why was it seized? What have you done to unseize it? A new battery turning the engine slowly would suggest it isn't quite free yet.

evo42 · « **Reply #17 on:** August 04, 2013, 08:19:16 PM »

I used ATF and some rocking to unsieze the motor. I don't have the why on how it was seized. I've had the pan off, the chain is not bound and is in place.

LesterPiglet · « **Reply #18 on:** August 05, 2013, 07:38:35 AM »

Take the plugs out, take the tappet covers off. Put oil in these orifices. Repeatedly turn the engine over with the kicker(ignition off). It should be fairly easy to kick. Keep at it and see if it becomes easier. Replace the oil and filter. Check the air filter is clean.

evo42 · « **Reply #19 on:** August 05, 2013, 11:28:18 AM »

I'll try these things, thanks for the feedback. I did pull the cover to check the points and condensors. Shiney plate, parts look recent however I get 10v to the right condensor and .09 on the left condensor. Battery is showing 11.99v.

I'm going to check the coil connections. I did install new plugs/wires/boots utilizing the NGK splicers, let's see if I did that correctly.

LesterPiglet · « **Reply #20 on:** August 05, 2013, 01:49:47 PM »

Post pictures, it helps a lot.

evo42 · « **Reply #21 on:** August 05, 2013, 02:00:38 PM »

I checked the volts of the blk/wht wire in the headlight bucket, no power. I checked the blk/whit wire at the coil, no power. This is with key on and switch at run. I have power at the right side condensor and points. None on the left side condensor and points however Im able to get a spark jump between both points when I put a screwdriver head between them.

No power at fuse panel although all fuses are not broken and they're not falling apart. I did go over the connectors (nice and tight) with some sandpaper a week or so ago.

Last thing to check is the run/stop switch. I put the battery on the tender, its at 11.6 right now. You are correct, I know nothing about electricity and don't have the patience.

TwoTired · « **Reply #22 on:** August 05, 2013, 02:11:54 PM »

Battery volts go to the coil (though switch contacts and fuses) and then on to the points contacts . The points should only read voltage on the set that has open contacts. If you open both point contacts, you should see battery voltage at the points terminal, blue or yellow.
Is that 11.99V at the battery when there is electrical load? If so, how much load?

Quote from: evo42 on August 05, 2013, 02:00:38 PM

I checked the volts of the blk/wht wire in the headlight bucket, no power. I checked the blk/whit wire at the coil, no power. This is with key on and switch at run. I have power at the right side condensor and points. None on the left side condensor and points however Im able to get a spark jump between both points when I put a screwdriver head between them.

Something is amiss. The black/wht wire is supposed to feed power to the coils. And, the points get any power it receives from the coils (V with open contacts only). How does your bike get power to the points?

Quote from: evo42 on August 05, 2013, 02:00:38 PM

No power at fuse panel although all fuses are not broken and they're not falling apart. I did go over the connectors (nice and tight) with some sandpaper a week or so ago.

The Blk/wht wire is supposed to its power from the Black line routing, which is connected to Red (fuses and then battery)

No power at fuses indicates a serious mis-wire, or faulty test technique.

evo42 · « **Reply #23 on:** August 05, 2013, 02:30:36 PM »

Thats with key on and switch on run. The battery was new on Saturday with 12.6 out of the box. I just checked it, its at 12.1 now so I put it back on the tender.

I read that I can jump the black wire to the blk/wht wire in the headlight bucket to bypass the switch. I might try that...

Bankerdanny · « **Reply #24 on:** August 06, 2013, 08:16:38 AM »

Did you charge the battery when you took it out of the box? While it might have shown full voltage, the battery still requires an initial charging session in order to work properly.

News:

Author Topic: 76 550 - No power (Read 3513 times)