Thanks - the pictures are labeled on and off, that's in reference to the kill switch position.
The pictures show no representation of electrical connections. How would we use that info?
I'm simply putting the red probe on the metal up in the switch, not the black wire shown and putting the black probe on the frame.
The metal that you see in the switch housing may be a black wire connection or a Blk/wht wire connection, (or even neither). Unless it is taken apart, you are only guessing. And, as I said before, you can check switch function by measuring from the wire ends that ultimately connect to that switch. You don't have to take it apart until testing shows it isn't doing what is expected of it.
While you can use the frame as a grounding point for testing, it isn't reliable until verified as having good connectivity to the battery NEG terminal.
Electrical troubleshooting is the elimination of unknowns or the accumulation of knowns. If you can't keep the list in your head, then write down what is known or what isn't. If you are just learning, make a copy of the wire diagram, and write your notation on it as you do the probing. Assumptions can leave you chasing your tail for days, even months. BTDT
I'm getting that 10.6 at the black wires at the coil and in the bucket.
I'll take a guess that the main key switch contacts are worn/dirty. Presently that is an assumption based on the limited data collected. But, that can be verified or eliminated as a possibility via measuring at points before and after the contact connection path of the switch.
I too am wondering where the volts are going. Maybe due to old wires or dirty connections somewhere on the bike.
Seems likely and is often the case with components that have been in service since 1976.
Still reading and looking at the diagrams. It's a little frustrating that a full 12.6 is needed. I'm not expecting a perfect running bike but just trying to get it to run (like garbage) is the goal.
12.6 volts is the voltage for an unloaded battery at full charge. When loads are placed on the battery, it's voltage will fall in relation to the magnitude of the load. The alternator's job is to restore that voltage once it is spinning fast enough. If you just want to hear the motor run you can connect the Blk/Wht wire to the battery POS terminal and kick start the bike, assuming all else is is working order.
I'm going to move to valve adjustment. I refurbed the tank with por-15 and installed new fuel lines. I'll do carbs last. I'm getting fuel out the overflows so I'm assuming its getting gas.
Getting gas out the overflows does not mean gas is being delivered to the cylinders for firing. That is a separate verification operation.
