Author Topic: Broke exhaust mounting stud, what to do?? (Read 7665 times)

asbissonnette · « **on:** July 13, 2013, 02:30:03 PM »

So I was torqueing the nuts back on that hold the exhaust collars in place on my cb550. I was using a broken torque wrench, but didn't know it until after it didn't click when the proper torque was reached. As a result, I over-torqued it and the stud or bolt that is part of the engine came right off. There is still some of the bolt left, but not enough to get another bolt on to hold the collar in place.

These are permanent studs. And I do not have the knowledge or equipment of welding to weld another bolt on. What could I do?

I know most of you will cringe at this idea, but do you think as a temporary solution, I could maybe JB-weld the stud back on there to hold the exhaust in place (if I took the proper measures to keep the threads properly aligned? Or maybe some other way of bonding it back on? I don't know how well the JB weld would hold up under the torque and heat. But can anyone think of a quick easy way to do this?

RFogelsong · « **Reply #1 on:** July 13, 2013, 02:38:03 PM »

The stud isn't really "permanent", you can back those out of the block and buy new ones. Get one of those EZ-out kits for your drill bit and see if that'll extract it. Then it's just a matter of getting another stud from your favorite Honda dealer.

phil71 · « **Reply #2 on:** July 13, 2013, 02:55:48 PM »

you may need to forget about quick and easy. In my experience, the extractors don't work too well. .age and heat have those stud threads pretty cruddy.Get yourself some nice drill bits, and go slow.

kghost · « **Reply #3 on:** July 13, 2013, 03:10:52 PM »

Is there any bit of the stud protruding?

Pictures?

They can be removed. Worse case is when they snap off flush or slightly recessed.

Corey · « **Reply #4 on:** July 13, 2013, 06:15:33 PM »

I broke an exhaust screw head off flush a couple weeks ago. If it snapped it's probably seized in there pretty good, and the EZ out won't work. Trust me I learned from this that they break very easily. When they do it makes the job twice as bad. I got it out with a carbide burr bit, but mucked up the threads and did what I should of done from the start and took it to a machine shop.

If your drilling ability is sub par just save the cash and time and take it somewhere. It cost me $30-$40 for the machine shop to drill out the rest of the screw, tap it, and install a heli-coil to fix my mistake plus whatever I spent on tools to try and fix it myself. Which was probably around $40.

Bootlegger56 · « **Reply #5 on:** July 13, 2013, 06:21:47 PM »

Phil and Corey are right. If its broken flush then I would pull the head and take it to a shop to be drilled or better yet burned out with an EDM. Think of it as an opportunity to clean up the head, replace any other suspect studs or aged seals and perform any other maintenance needed. I have spent money too many times on trying to remove broken studs when it would have been easier, cheaper and faster to have someone with the proper equipment do it right.

nevernoluck · « **Reply #6 on:** July 13, 2013, 06:46:03 PM »

Yes I agree with taking it somewhere if its recessed. If its protruding you can weld another nut on it and try to remove it that way but please don't waste your time with an extractor as when you break it off you will definitely have more work involved. I just had a friend snap one off in his z1 kawy and ended up with his at the machine shop too

Kenzo1979 · « **Reply #7 on:** July 13, 2013, 07:49:17 PM »

If you are going to try to drill it out, Use a Punch to get a center point and then starting with a reasonably small cobalt bit, drill it and step up a size each time. Remember to lubricate with oil when drilling metal. By the time you get close to the actual size of the stud it may even come out when you're backing that last drillbit out. Otherwise, when you've hollowed the stud enough, CAREFULLY hit the shell of the screw and it will come out in pieces.

Or have a pro do it. Good Luck.

scottly · « **Reply #8 on:** July 13, 2013, 08:17:58 PM »

Quote from: RFogelsong on July 13, 2013, 02:38:03 PM

Get one of those EZ-out kits for your drill bit and see if that'll extract it.

EZ-outs are the spawn of the devil!!!!

scottly · « **Reply #9 on:** July 13, 2013, 08:21:18 PM »

Quote from: asbissonnette on July 13, 2013, 02:30:03 PM

There is still some of the bolt left, but not enough to get another bolt on to hold the collar in place.

How much of the bolt is left? A picture would help..

nevernoluck · « **Reply #10 on:** July 13, 2013, 09:20:28 PM »

Quote from: scottly on July 13, 2013, 08:17:58 PM

Quote from: RFogelsong on July 13, 2013, 02:38:03 PM
Get one of those EZ-out kits for your drill bit and see if that'll extract it.
EZ-outs are the spawn of the devil!!!!

+1000

Bankerdanny · « **Reply #11 on:** July 13, 2013, 09:52:16 PM »

The should just call them EZ Breaks. I've never had one work right.

Bootlegger56 · « **Reply #12 on:** July 13, 2013, 10:23:30 PM »

The Devil couldn't make anything as worthless as an EZ-out!! I have had significantly more failures than successes when trying to use one. The people who designed it must of had our wallet in mind when they named it.

kghost · « **Reply #13 on:** July 13, 2013, 11:33:55 PM »

Ez-outs work.

I am successful about 80% of the time with them.

When I started using them 25 yrs ago I probably broke every one of them.

Wish I could give you simple step by step instruction......

But it's experience....bit more art than science.

Couple points if you do try......

Use the biggest one you can.

The rotational torque applied has to remain vertical ( or perpendicular ) to the extractor or you'll snap it every time.

The hole has to be dead straight and in the middle.

Sticking a vise grip on the end of the extractor will not work. There's a tool to hold the extractor. See second suggestion above.

If there is stud still sticking out you have better options than an ezout.

Bru-tom · « **Reply #14 on:** July 13, 2013, 11:51:08 PM »

^^thanks for that

tomkimberly · « **Reply #15 on:** July 14, 2013, 03:10:00 AM »

If you're going to drill, make sure to use left hand drill bits.

Tom

davesee · « **Reply #16 on:** July 14, 2013, 06:28:56 AM »

this happened to me and i was sh*tting my pants. i gave the stud and surrounding area a good solid blast of torch, then slowly and carefully backed it out with vice grips. i think we may have used a file to square off the protruding bit, but i can't recall. it's threaded, so lots of penetrant, heat and patience and it'll come out. i used a regular bolt and washers as a quick fix while i waited for a new stud.

good luck with it!

RFogelsong · « **Reply #17 on:** July 14, 2013, 07:25:26 AM »

I've had good luck with easy outs, but I can see where the heat from the head can make stuff more difficult in this situation. A little heat in combination with some of the other suggestions might yield better results.

lucky · « **Reply #18 on:** July 14, 2013, 08:57:05 AM »

Quote from: tomkimberly on July 14, 2013, 03:10:00 AM

If you're going to drill, make sure to use left hand drill bits.

Tom

Do not attempt to drill this.

You have no business fixing this problem.
I know that because you thought about JB glueing as a fix on a hot exhaust .

You really need to get some expert help or you could ruin a good cylinder head.
Then I bet you will just go looking for a new engine that could have even more problems.

lucky · « **Reply #19 on:** July 14, 2013, 09:48:35 AM »

There are two kinds of easy outs sold.

There are the more common spiral design that always break.
Then there is the square tapered style which are much stronger and resist breaking.

70CB750 · « **Reply #20 on:** July 14, 2013, 10:06:12 AM »

I would pull the head and had the stud EMD out. EMD is the best way to deal with it - unless you have enough stud left to get it out by force.

Don R · « **Reply #21 on:** July 14, 2013, 09:19:43 PM »

I think he said there is some stud left just not enough to use. It should unscrew if done properly. Penetrating oil and tap on the end of it to help loosen the bond to the aluminum. Ice on the protruding part to shrink it might help. Go easy and don't make it worse. Are any threads left?

CoachDoc · « **Reply #22 on:** July 14, 2013, 10:45:03 PM »

Quote from: Don R on July 14, 2013, 09:19:43 PM

I think he said there is some stud left just not enough to use. It should unscrew if done properly. Penetrating oil and tap on the end of it to help loosen the bond to the aluminum. Ice on the protruding part to shrink it might help. Go easy and don't make it worse. Are any threads left?

I agree re. getting it to unscrew. I was able to unscrew a broken exhaust stud by heating it and then used a large pair of channel lock pliers to get it started. Worked very well, but obviously there has to be enough protruding to grab.

Lostboy Steve · « **Reply #23 on:** July 15, 2013, 06:01:18 AM »

Drill Baby Drill!!

Bru-tom · « **Reply #24 on:** July 15, 2013, 07:53:21 AM »

i helped a mate get a snapped off engine mounting bolt out his Audi engine block. Very limited space and and and...
It snapped off flush with the surface making my job a headache. i used an arc welder (MMA or "stick"), didnt have a MIG on hand.. and i managed to put several well placed tack welds on the surface of the broken bolt. after it was raised enough, i welded a nut though the centre of it on the built up surface of the broken bolt. it came loose with with a twist of my fingers. obviously the heat helped. There was no damage whatsoever to the alluminium block or threads.

just my story, use it or not

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Author Topic: Broke exhaust mounting stud, what to do?? (Read 7665 times)