Topic: Throttle, and Brake, and Clutch levers.

[MarshallCS]

Hello

This is my first time posting here, but I've been trolling quite a bit especially now that I purchased my very own 1978 CB750F superspeed.
The bike was in great condition, and I have all of the receipts of what was done to the bike, and I've started a relationship with the shop that exclusively worked on it.

I figured that I'd appeal to your collective wisdom for advice.

I'm about to switch handlebars, and I'd like to clean up the  menagerie of cables that are all over the place (new wiring harness with a motogadget interface looks like it will be in the works later on down the road)

The big issue that I'm having right now is that clutch and the brake levers are too far away from my hands in the stock position (everything is pretty much stock on this bike other than some key improvements)

So when I get the lower handlebars, I'd also like to sort that out. I've seen that there are many "adjustable" levers here and there, some quite expensive. But I did not know if they were compatible with the Honda perch. If I have to get a new perch, then it looks like I would need to get a different master cylinder system as well. Any advice from the well seasoned masters?

Lastly, since I'm going to be moving all that stuff, it looks like a good opportunity to change out the throttle that is currently on their (OEM) are there any better performing throttles out there than what Honda supplied? Is there anything I should look out for to see if the current one is on its last legs?

I'm looking at the Terrazzo offset clip-ons. I would drop the forks through the tree's just enough to get them to mount to the top of them. (I have read that that will make the bike a bit twitchier at top speed)


Thanks for all of your help in advance!
Marshall

[Djfob]

If you don't care for a vintage look nissin makes a nice adjustable lever brake master. Got mine from dimecity.

[bjbuchanan]

You can get an 8$ dog leg lever to move them closer. You can't get too close because then you don't have full travel.

Get 1~" lowering shocks in the rear to offset the form tube drop it will "correct" the geometry. Your stock shocks sucked @as when new

[MarshallCS]

Thank you both for the advice. I will look into the dog leg levers now, and then get a nissin master cylinder a bit later on.


I'm still not sure about going to clip-ons or something like the supermoto style bars. I'm not racing or anything like that. I just want it to be comfortable and less cluttered around the headlight and triple tree.


Thanks
Marshall

[Harsh]

You could also get a master cylinder and clutch perch from another bike that utilizes adjustable levers.  That is the route I took.  I used a clutch perch from a 2006 GSXR750 and a master cylinder from a 2011 GSXR 750.  They come with adjustable levers, but I changed them for for a set of shorty Pazzo knockoffs.

I got the mc from D2 cycles (http://www.d2cycles.com/) for $50 and the clutch perch from another forum for $15.

[bjbuchanan]

Thank you both for the advice. I will look into the dog leg levers now, and then get a nissin master cylinder a bit later on.


I'm still not sure about going to clip-ons or something like the supermoto style bars. I'm not racing or anything like that. I just want it to be comfortable and less cluttered around the headlight and triple tree.


Thanks
Marshall

Superbike bars are nice, they seem to fit many body types well. I have them on my bike and like them

[Djfob]

+1 on superbike bars. Find them low enough to be comfortable yet looks right on the bike

[MarshallCS]

That is absolutely perfect. Superbike bars it is.


I've read that It should be fine to drill holes into the bars to run the electrical though. I'm not to worried about the electrical connection side, moreso the mechanical "don't make the bars snap in half" side.


Thanks everyone for all your help. I honestly don't feel like I deserve a picture thread since I'm not doing anything amazing, just the little stuff.


I think the only other thing I'm going to try to do right now is to either bend or find another way to lower the instrument cluster bracket. It just sits so damn high. I'd love to get a combo speedo / tach at some point, or even one that can fit inside of the headlight bucket. But again, that's later on down the road.

[Dream750]

If you like the genuine Honda Euro bars as seen in this 750 K2 sales ad or similar style bars, here’s the dimensions to look for:

Width: 29.50 or 748 mm
Center: 4.90 or 125 mm
Rise: 2.99 or 76 mm
Pullback: 3.81 or 97 mm
 
David Silver (USA) has nice identical reproductions with wiring cut outs, switch pin holes and knurls.
 
http://www.davidsilverspares.com/CB750K1-FOUR-1971/pattern-parts/part_188999/

Welcome to the forums.

[bjbuchanan]

Dime city cycles has predrilled supermoto bars for like 37$

Supermoto are lower than gennie honda euro bars

[MarshallCS]

AWESOME! That means I can make one purchase instead of two and get new headlight brackets too! This is shaping up wonderfully!


You all rock!

[Djfob]

I think the only other thing I'm going to try to do right now is to either bend or find another way to lower the instrument cluster bracket. It just sits so damn high. I'd love to get a combo speedo / tach at some point, or even one that can fit inside of the headlight bucket. But again, that's later on down the road.

This setup cleaned up my bars nicely

[MarshallCS]

I think the only other thing I'm going to try to do right now is to either bend or find another way to lower the instrument cluster bracket. It just sits so damn high. I'd love to get a combo speedo / tach at some point, or even one that can fit inside of the headlight bucket. But again, that's later on down the road.

This setup cleaned up my bars nicely

Is that an Acewell tach speedo (the one with GPS?) How do you like it? Where did you run the GPS unit to on your bike? Will it connect to the standard  tach cable? You hit the head on the nail with that one, it looks GORGEOUS!

[evanphi]

I think the only other thing I'm going to try to do right now is to either bend or find another way to lower the instrument cluster bracket. It just sits so damn high. I'd love to get a combo speedo / tach at some point, or even one that can fit inside of the headlight bucket. But again, that's later on down the road.

This setup cleaned up my bars nicely

Is that an Acewell tach speedo (the one with GPS?) How do you like it? Where did you run the GPS unit to on your bike? Will it connect to the standard  tach cable? You hit the head on the nail with that one, it looks GORGEOUS!

Looks llike the 2853, no GPS. You have to get another cable for speedo if you want to use the speedo drive that is already on the bike. Tach is wired right into the harness before the coil. Easy to do if you follow a wiring diagram! Also, see here http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=124187.0 for how to calculate the input circumference if you use the speedo cable.

[Djfob]

Yep it's a 2853, speedo cable for the cb is only $25. Haven't used it yet, it's on a project bike. Haven't heard anyone not liking it.

[swoardrider]

I was in the same boat as Marshall too, so after lots of research I ended up with this Nissin master cylinder http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-caferacer-cafe-racer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-brake-parts-black-aluminum-nissin-retro-hydraulic-front-brake-master-cylinder-717-654e.html.

Then I bought this adjustable replacement dog leg lever (27354) for the Nissin master cylinder from Daytona for easy adjustment:


For $40, I bought a 2002 Kawasaki EX500 clutch assembly from Bike Bandit that matches the brake cylinder lever perfectly


Lastly, I cleaned up the throttle with this half turn throttle and had custom cables made by Motion Pro http://www.dimecitycycles.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1//9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/4/4/44-29433-vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-throttle-parts-black-push-pull-half-turn-side-exit-throttle-assembly-5.jpg

[andy750]

If you like the genuine Honda Euro bars as seen in this 750 K2 sales ad or similar style bars, here’s the dimensions to look for:

Width: 29.50 or 748 mm
Center: 4.90 or 125 mm
Rise: 2.99 or 76 mm
Pullback: 3.81 or 97 mm
 
David Silver (USA) has nice identical reproductions with wiring cut outs, switch pin holes and knurls.
 
http://www.davidsilverspares.com/CB750K1-FOUR-1971/pattern-parts/part_188999/

Welcome to the forums.

Was there 2 sizes of K1 bars? I bought some from K1 bars from DSS a few years back and they are definitely higher than these Euro bars - perhaps a US version v Euro?

thanks
Andy

[Dream750]

Was there 2 sizes of K1 bars? I bought some from K1 bars from DSS a few years back and they are definitely higher than these Euro bars - perhaps a US version v Euro?

thanks
Andy

Yes, two sizes and two different part numbers. The Euro 750 K1 bar: 53100-300-610 and the USA market 750 K1 bar: 53100-300-000
 
The dimensions I posted in reply #8 are for the (53100-300-610) Euro 750 K1 bar.

 

[MarshallCS]

I just met the guys at DCC today at Barbers and they had one of those Nissin MC... REALLY nice quality. I asked them about a matching clutch and they said they couldn't find one, but that looks really good. Actually all of it looks really good.


I'm finally going to be able to head back to KC on Monday, so the project (and learning to ride and taking the beginners safety course) will begin very soon. I know it won't be too exciting, but I'll post pictures.


Thanks to EVERYONE who to the time to answer my stupid questions


Marshall

I was in the same boat as Marshall too, so after lots of research I ended up with this Nissin master cylinder http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-caferacer-cafe-racer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-brake-parts-black-aluminum-nissin-retro-hydraulic-front-brake-master-cylinder-717-654e.html.

Then I bought this adjustable replacement dog leg lever (27354) for the Nissin master cylinder from Daytona for easy adjustment:


For $40, I bought a 2002 Kawasaki EX500 clutch assembly from Bike Bandit that matches the brake cylinder lever perfectly


Lastly, I cleaned up the throttle with this half turn throttle and had custom cables made by Motion Pro http://www.dimecitycycles.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1//9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/4/4/44-29433-vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-throttle-parts-black-push-pull-half-turn-side-exit-throttle-assembly-5.jpg

[andy750]

Was there 2 sizes of K1 bars? I bought some from K1 bars from DSS a few years back and they are definitely higher than these Euro bars - perhaps a US version v Euro?

thanks
Andy

Yes, two sizes and two different part numbers. The Euro 750 K1 bar: 53100-300-610 and the USA market 750 K1 bar: 53100-300-000
 
The dimensions I posted in reply #8 are for the (53100-300-610) Euro 750 K1 bar.

 

Thank you! Great info.

Andy