Topic: Wes's '75 550F - Daily Rider Build - Now with more photos

[knochgoon24]

For $250, I picked up a beaten and battered '75 550F 2 years ago from a buddy who was moving across the country.

Started like this


Got it to look like this


That story here.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=90760


Well, by November that year, the bottom end started knocking. I tore it down, graduated college, and couldn't find employment. So in pieces it sat... for the last 2 years.

Finally got a job, albeit one for which I'm over-quallified (and under-paid) for, but at least it's a paycheck. I finally took the time to look closer at the engine to attempt to narrow down the knock. Unfortunately, instead of it being the primary chain, I found cylinders 1 and 4 severely scored on the skirts and a PTW clearance of about 3 times more than it should. I priced out doing a complete rebuild on it, but couldn't swallow the price tag on it, as the rest of the bike needs some TLC and my budget won't allow it.


I began searching Craigslist for 550's, hoping to combine 2 so-so bikes onto one good one. Found such a candidate 2 hours away.

[knochgoon24]

Scooped it up for $350. I was hoping to score something cheaper, but with my work schedule, I kept missing bike after bike. And most everyone within 3 hours seems to think that their "classic" is worth $1000+ no matter the condition. But I digress...

This thing was a gem. Complete with coffin gas tank, 4" extended front forks, and the exhaust hacked off just before the 4-into-2. He sold it to me as a '76 CB550K. Turns out it is a '75. Works for me.

It stayed complete for approximately 2 days before I started stripping it down.

[knochgoon24]

I live in a 750 sq-ft, 2nd floor apartment with 2 other people, so this build will be a bit interesting. Everything is going to need to be cleaned a prepped to all be installed at once. At the moment, everything is in 2 piles. I have a very understanding girlfriend. The 550F is currently residing (in pieces) on the bedroom floor. The 550K is in the living room, along with the engine bits from the F. Did I mention the girlfriend is very understanding? For the sake of our relationship, I can't drag this project out.

[knochgoon24]

The plans:

-Found a place to sandblast and powdercoat the frame (color and clear) for $100. Swing arm, center stand, kick stand, and triple tree for an additional $40. Recommended by several people I've talked to. I'm going with a dark (graphite?) grey metallic/flake. I need to see what he has onhand.
-Bought 175' of wiring to make a new harness. (See http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=90760.msg1021961#msg1021961)
-The F tank needs to be coated inside. I'll also repair the dent.
-The gauges from the K are in great shape. I may put new faces in them, but I'm not 100% sure yet.
-Ordering Delphi 4 fuse holders, 5 pin relay holders, and weatherpack connectors. I'll be redoing wiring to include some key changes.
---Removing high current loads from the aging switches. I'll have a few 5 pin relays do the heavy work.
---Electronic flasher unit. Might wire something in for a hazard switch.
---Wiring buzzer in such that it won't sound with the brake light on. I hate sitting at stoplights in a busy area with that blaring. It really detracts from the bike.
---Polishing some stuff. I bought a 6" bench polisher from HF that has been doing a nice job so far.
---80 amp (wind turbine) solid state rectifier. I'm working on something for the voltage regulator, too.
---Heavy enough headlight wiring for a future upgrade.
-I debated on doing something with the air box, but I think I'll keep that stock, just because I know it works.

At the end of the day, I want to have this be reliable and comfortable enough to ride everyday. When it was running before, I used this a my primary vehicle for the better part of 5 months. I hate doing things twice. I like the stock look, so I'm trying to keep it looking original. I just wish I didn't have 1970's electronics.


Frame goes off to powder coater Monday or Tuesday, as long as I don't get stuck at work. At this point, the only current progress has been the polishing.
Here's a quick before and after with just a little bit of red rouge on a spiral sewn wheel. This was the only photo I took. I bought some more wheels and compounds to try to clean it up a little more, but I haven't had the chance to yet. As you can see, my workbench is an old desk, and I'm using old table clothes as drop cloths while I buff. I hate not having a garage right now.

[FunJimmy]

Keep your eye on the prize.
It's worth it in the end.

[lone*X]

Dang, my better half makes me keep the garage clean and I better not bring dirty parts in the house!  You have a Gem on your hands, and I don't mean the 550's.  Keep the little lady happy and get that thing put together as soon as feasible. 

[knochgoon24]

She has her own work area. She has the kitchen table covered in scrapbook supplies, so we are often left eating from the couch / coffee table (which happens to be a 6 drawer Craftsman tool box). I do need to get some of the spare parts cleaned up and listed in the classifieds/eBay/Craigslist.

And it looks like I should be able to get the frame off the the powdercoater on Tuesday and pick it up sometime next week.

[Bankerdanny]

Alternatively, you box up everything you don't use for the full rebuild once the other one is done. That's my plan for my second bike worth of stuff.

[knochgoon24]

I don't have a title for the K. I called and check with the police before buying it, and it didn't come up with anything. But the PO lost the title while moving from MI to AR, then back to MI.  He was selling the K before moving back to AR for good. MI has a way to apply for a title if the vehicle is older than 15 yrs old and is worth less than $2500. I just haven't made it to the DMV (SOS here) to try.

I asked the g/f if she wanted me to build the K for her once I finish the F. She said she'd prefer a '70s-era 49cc scooter, like a C50 or NC50. So that may be the next project.

[knochgoon24]

Got a title on the way for the K. In MI, you fill out a "Certification of Ownership" (TR-205) Form, get an appraisal from a dealership, take them to the Secretary of State Office, and they run a background check on the VIN. The next day you stop in, and if it is clear, you pay the tax on the "appraised" value, plus $30 for the title, and then wait for it in the mail.

I say "appraised" value, because I took photos of the K to 2 dealerships (I don't have a truck and hoped just photos would be enough), and I had one place say it was worth $1000 and the other said $600 if it was running. Seriously, I have no clue where they got those numbers from. For those prices, I asked if either wanted to buy it, and they said no. LOL

I still haven't taken the frame to the powdercoater. I had some car problems, so that's on hold for another week. But I have been putting some time in with the polisher. Most of the parts on my F were a bit rusty. I didn't have a garage to store it in, so for the summer I had it running, it spent it outside, covered with a leaky Walmart bike cover.

The headlight ear show how bad some of the chrome was. Not all of it was that bad.



All the polishing was just 3 stages for the chrome. Emery (black), tripoli (red), and a final polish with white rouge (white). Some of the aluminum was pitted to the point where I started with 120 grit wet sandpaper and worked my way 120, 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, and 1500 by hand, before then using the bench buffer.

It's not a show finish shine, as there are still some scratches and (of course) pitting visible, but it's a whole lot better than it was, and will have to suffice.


Also, I hate to say it, but plans have changed a bit. Because I'm going back to school this fall, money is a bit tighter than I hoped, so the wiring will generally stay factory for now. I'm going to replace a few of the damaged connectors with ones from the K harness, and then I'll just seal all the boots with dielectric grease and a syringe. Someday, I can take the wiring back apart and do something more serious with it.

[Bankerdanny]

Mi also lets you print out the value info from Kelly's Blue Book website, so you can avoid the dealer appraisal thing.

[jtran000]

Got a title on the way for the K. In MI, you fill out a "Certification of Ownership" (TR-205) Form, get an appraisal from a dealership, take them to the Secretary of State Office, and they run a background check on the VIN. The next day you stop in, and if it is clear, you pay the tax on the "appraised" value, plus $30 for the title, and then wait for it in the mail.

I say "appraised" value, because I took photos of the K to 2 dealerships (I don't have a truck and hoped just photos would be enough), and I had one place say it was worth $1000 and the other said $600 if it was running. Seriously, I have no clue where they got those numbers from. For those prices, I asked if either wanted to buy it, and they said no. LOL

I still haven't taken the frame to the powdercoater. I had some car problems, so that's on hold for another week. But I have been putting some time in with the polisher. Most of the parts on my F were a bit rusty. I didn't have a garage to store it in, so for the summer I had it running, it spent it outside, covered with a leaky Walmart bike cover.

The headlight ear show how bad some of the chrome was. Not all of it was that bad.



All the polishing was just 3 stages for the chrome. Emery (black), tripoli (red), and a final polish with white rouge (white). Some of the aluminum was pitted to the point where I started with 120 grit wet sandpaper and worked my way 120, 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, and 1500 by hand, before then using the bench buffer.

It's not a show finish shine, as there are still some scratches and (of course) pitting visible, but it's a whole lot better than it was, and will have to suffice.


Also, I hate to say it, but plans have changed a bit. Because I'm going back to school this fall, money is a bit tighter than I hoped, so the wiring will generally stay factory for now. I'm going to replace a few of the damaged connectors with ones from the K harness, and then I'll just seal all the boots with dielectric grease and a syringe. Someday, I can take the wiring back apart and do something more serious with it.

bah, you're making want to get a bench buffer now, saw then one you have and it was on sale at HF for 40.  Mite bite the bullet and get it now for my build as i'm using polishing disc on a corded drill.

[knochgoon24]

Mi also lets you print out the value info from Kelly's Blue Book website, so you can avoid the dealer appraisal thing.

The NADA guide has a 75 CB550K listing for $1050 in fair condition. It has N/A for poor condition. They said they had to use the lowest price listed if I went that way. I tried that first. The KBB site is all sorts of messed up (aka. user error), and would only show the price of one in good condition.

One of the guys at the shop offered me a job once he found I was working on a CB project.  He had several CB's of his own sitting there, and that was kind of cool. But with school, I'll already have all the hours I can take, so I had to pass on the 2nd job.

bah, you're making want to get a bench buffer now, saw then one you have and it was on sale at HF for 40.  Mite bite the bullet and get it now for my build as i'm using polishing disc on a corded drill.

I wish it had a bit more power, but seems to be able to be able to handle a 1" wide, 6" buff. I got it with a 20% off coupon, so I don't recall what I paid for it.

I may break down a put an order in with Caswell. They have some coarser compounds that would work well for getting some of the oxidation off the cast aluminum parts without all the hand sanding. It took me about 5 hours start to finish to get one front fork polished (hand sand from 120 to 1500 grit, the buffed with buffer), and I'm not even happy with it, so I'll start over. http://www.caswellplating.com/buffing-polishing/buffing-compounds.html

An opprutunity just opened up where I may be moving (crazy story I'll just skip), but the end result is that I may end up with a 1.5 car garage in which to work in. It may delay the build a little bit initially, but should help in the long run. Plus, it means it can be stored inside.

[knochgoon24]

Finally got the stuff off to the powdercoater. The frame and swing arm are getting an anthracite grey metallic with a gloss clear top coat. The triple tree and center stand are getting a gloss black with gloss clear top coat. And he's going to sandblast the exterior of my tank, too. He quoted me at ~$225 for all that, with a 1-2 week turnaround. Not too shabby.

Next will be looking for gaskets and some odd ball parts. Mostly just a taillight lens, one headlight ear, an air filter, and mirrors.

I also need to rejuvenate the rubber bits. I'll be going the "boiling them with wintergreen oil" route.

[knochgoon24]

Got the parts back from the powder coater today. Here are the parts I brought inside. It's raining, so no point getting the rest out of the car.

[Tews19]

Looking good! Keep up the work.

[knochgoon24]

Ordered:
-Tach, speedo, and both throttle cables. (Clutch cable is only a month old)
-Gas tank cap seal
-Tail light cover and gasket
-Full gasket set
-Head pucks
-Trans output shaft seal
-"Japanese" bike 3.9mm electrical terminal kit.
-Taper steering bearings

Everything should be here by Saturday.

So once I find a right headlight ear in good shape for the 550F, I should have just about all I need. I may just try to straighten what I have out.
I'm having some trouble tracking down wintergreen oil. Unfortunately, my kart racing buddy is all out. Local pharmacies just have 1oz bottles for $10/ea. My carb boots and other rubber grommets are all rock hard from age. I may just bite the bullet and buy it so I can boil the parts and get them together ASAP.

Also, since I'm sticking with a mostly stock electrical system for now (yeah, I'm bummed about it too), should I use the diode style neutral safety switch off the F, or the "safety box" off the K? I'd like to wire the more reliable one in. I know both are working properly.

[knochgoon24]

Started making some more progress.





I've been trying to clean up or replace all the fasteners I can. It's been a bit tricky. I've cleaned out just about every hardware store in town of their M6 and M8 washers.

[RAFster122s]

Fasteners on the triple tree are often without markings and are bright zinc or chrome plated, so to look original, finding replacements from hardware stores is difficult.
Looks good, nice work!

David

[knochgoon24]

I think the ones on the triple tree will clean up. Most of the chrome fasteners have been cleaning up alright. It helps that I have 2 bikes worth of fasteners to pick from. But many of the zinc ones have seen better days. And unfortunately, polishing the zinc ones will lead to rusty ones soon enough. If I can't find SS ones, I'll resort to using new zine ones.

I realized today that I totally forgot to order new fork seals. So I'll have to get some of those on the way tomorrow. I'm hoping that I have time Friday and Saturday to play with the wiring. Once I get that figured out, I'll order nylon braided loom. TechFlex looks the way to go.

I'll have this finished just in time to put it into storage.

[knochgoon24]

Well, made some more progress. I finally got the All Balls bearings in the steering. Got the fork seals today. I also go around to stripping all the loom/wrap off the harness.



I'm trying to figure out what size and how much loom I need to order. A friend suggested Techflex F6, so I'll order some of that up early next week.

Left to acquire:
-Air Filter
-Loom
-Fork oil
-Wintergreen oil
-"The Works"
-In tank fuel filter

Unfortunately, the to-do list is still quite extensive:
-Finish polishing forks
-New seals and oil for forks
-Fix leaking gaskets on the motor
-Pull dent out of tank, derust, prep, and paint
-Loom wiring
-Straighten the one headlight ear as much as I can, prep, and paint
-Wire brush exhaust, paint with BBQ black
-Reinforce, sand, bondo, sand, and paint the side covers
-Prep and paint a few odd ball things I missed (seat lock bracket & junction box bracket)
-Clean up wheels

Then just that whole "reassembly" thing. At this point, I keep putting it together and taking it apart. I really needed to be doing this in a garage. The girlfriend is about fed up with it now. LOL

[RAFster122s]

Air intake manifold to carb rubbers are available from DSS for a decent price. I think they are repro parts and hear they are decent quality. Under $30 if I recall correctly. May want to consider those.
If you go the wintergreen oil route, be careful with the xylene, it is some nasty stuff and it can be absorbed through the skin and latex gloves are not enough protection.

Peanut oil can help restore the black gloss to the black plastics and it won't fade like a lot of topical treatments. It doesn't attract dirt either.

David

[knochgoon24]

I have a few plastic pieces soaking in peanut oil right now. It isn't doing too good of a job at the moment. I have a spare front brake rotor guard(?) and a few car parts that were spares.

I'm not going to use xylene, I'll go the boiling route. I have 2 sets of carb boots. I'll do the side plastic rubbers (that grip the prongs on the side covers) also. They are so hard that they won't release the side covers without cracking them.

[knochgoon24]

Finally getting around to an update.

Got the new wiring loom in. Techflex Flexo FR. It's a fire-resistant braided loom. I debated on the FR vs. the F6. The F6 is a split loom and would have been WAY easier. Looking back, I should have gone that route. Instead, I've spent almost 20 hours on the wiring alone in the last 2 weeks.



But I think it's finally coming together. One fork, just for the photo.




Motorcycle + cats = internet gold.

Merlin (above), Lilly (below) - They make it so I can't leave the seat on the frame, else it be turned into a scratching post like the kitchen chairs.


I finally got the forks polished (6 hours each), and the gauges all sorted. The hand controls have all been reloomed and run through the bars. I put the left switch all the way installed on the right side, and just about killed myself when I noticed.

At this point, I'd venture to say that I have about 40 hours into polishing parts, 6 into paint and prep, 25 into wiring, and a whole ton more trying to track the odds and ends down online. Weeeee.....

[Dr. Noisewater]

Dang dude it's going to look so good. I just "finished" my build, but after seeing this I'm tempted to tear it all down again.