Topic: Replacement Regulator/Rectifier CHEAP

[Duke McDukiedook]

Cool. Uses the original housing for the vintage look.

[Queeg]

now hose are sexy, wish i would have thought of that!

[the architect]

Did anyone ever definitively confirm whether the ignition lead connects to the "I" (ignition?) or the "S" (switched?) connector on the VR730?

I've been wiring my bike for the past week, and I'm 99% done.  But, before I test it out, I want to make sure I have the regulator hooked up right.

The "A" goes directly to the (+) terminal on the battery.
The "S" goes to ?
The "I" goes to ?
The "F" goes to the alternator field coil (white wire from the engine wiring harness)
The body/lug on the circuit board goes directly to the (-) battery terminal.

[Joel]

From the cut-away version of the VR730 in an earlier post, it looks as if the guts could probably be put into the stock VReg case.

If anyone is still looking for the 3-phase rectifiers, there are some on eBay right now for under $10. (http://cgi.ebay.com/35-AMP-3-THREE-PHASE-BRIDGE-RECTIFIER-WIND_W0QQitemZ250492010193QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3a527cbed1#ht_1113wt_941)

[GammaFlat]

From the cut-away version of the VR730 in an earlier post, it looks as if the guts could probably be put into the stock VReg case.

I have had that very thought.  I chopped up a VR730 and was tempted to do that.  Unfortunately, I think I damaged my VR730 with some testing that didn't go too well .  I was doing some "bench testing" and let my voltage get out of hand.  Is smoke bad?   (smacks forehead)


If anyone is still looking for the 3-phase rectifiers, there are some on eBay right now for under $10. (http://cgi.ebay.com/35-AMP-3-THREE-PHASE-BRIDGE-RECTIFIER-WIND_W0QQitemZ250492010193QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3a527cbed1#ht_1113wt_941)

Those look great.  I wish I had known about them before I bought a gaggle of the type that have 2 phases each. 

[Joel]

Does anyone think it would be cool to have a charging indicator light, like the original ford diagram had?

I do.  How does it need to be implemented?

[Queeg]

From the cut-away version of the VR730 in an earlier post, it looks as if the guts could probably be put into the stock VReg case.

If anyone is still looking for the 3-phase rectifiers, there are some on eBay right now for under $10. (http://cgi.ebay.com/35-AMP-3-THREE-PHASE-BRIDGE-RECTIFIER-WIND_W0QQitemZ250492010193QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3a527cbed1#ht_1113wt_941)

  yes and for some cash ill send you one. haha i even have a few up on ebay now. sold one so far. i also have one sold to a guy here locally.
 but boy are they a pain to make fit.

[Slams77]

I have decided to try the regulator/rectifier mod out using the VR730 Regulator and the Guerte 3 phase rectifier pictured below, although I am not confident enough with my knowledge to start it on my own being that I have never wired anything except a trailer wiring harness.  Do all seven pages cover the installation and I am not just getting it?  Has anyone used this combo on a CB400F yet?  Does anyone have photos of how they were installed especially with the size of the regulator?  Any bits of information will greatly assist in my challenge to get this installed. 

[GammaFlat]

The good news is that you have very inexpensive components there which is great because if you cook one, you're not out more than 15 bucks or so.  More good news is you get to learn along the way (if you don't know how this stuff works already).  If you're patient, you'll get this right.  I'd recommend getting the proper connectors and tools to make it compatible with your factory wiring harness.  You can get them here: www.vintageconnections.com and I think here: http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/ as well.  I went with Vintage Connections and that guy (Del I think) was great to deal with and I'm happy with his products (connectors, crimp tool). 

Unfortunately, I don't know about the 400f.  I'm sure you'll get great support here. 

I'm about to do about the same thing on one of my CB750s.  I'll have (2) two phase rectifiers instead of your "more excellent" (1) 3 phase rectifier solution.  In terms of how to wire it up, ask questions, understand, ask more questions, understand it more.  We are blessed here with some great minds/experience to help us through this stuff. 

[Slams77]

Thanks for the encouragement GammaFlat.  I’ll look take a look at the links you provided.  This is a great site and I am confident I’ll get it installed with help from members; right now it is a little foreign to me.

[Joel]

I have the same rectifer you do and will be putting it on a 400F as well.  From what I understand, hooking it up is pretty simple.  The 3 AC connections hook to the 3 yellow wires and the other two are + to red and - to the last, I can't remember if it's black or green.  It will need some sort of heat sink.  I'm planning to get some aluminum bar and bend it into a cube-like shape around it.  At the links above, you can get connectors to slip over the terminals on the rectifer and a connector to plug into the factory harness.  I haven't ordered the connectors for mine yet.

I don't know anything about the regulator other than the info I've read in this thread.  I think all the information you'll need to wire it is here.  I'm not sure about the mounting.  The original regulator has a terminal for ground and the newer one you've bought uses the case as ground.

[Slams77]

First up is the rectifier I'll be using on my CB400F.  Here is an illustration (not perfect but it’s all I have until I get the proper connections) of what I will be using.  My question is, since the colored wires on my harness are (3) yellow, (1) red, and (1) green,  Will this essentially be a plug and play or will I have to run a separate wire to both “-“ & “+” on the battery terminal?

I have the same rectifer you do and will be putting it on a 400F as well.  From what I understand, hooking it up is pretty simple.  The 3 AC connections hook to the 3 yellow wires and the other two are + to red and - to the last, I can't remember if it's black or green.  It will need some sort of heat sink.  I'm planning to get some aluminum bar and bend it into a cube-like shape around it.  At the links above, you can get connectors to slip over the terminals on the rectifer and a connector to plug into the factory harness.  I haven't ordered the connectors for mine yet.

I don't know anything about the regulator other than the info I've read in this thread.  I think all the information you'll need to wire it is here.  I'm not sure about the mounting.  The original regulator has a terminal for ground and the newer one you've bought uses the case as ground.

Thanks Joel C.  I’ve been trying to find some heat sink locally without success.  Please post some pics of the aluminum cube you fabricate, that way I can get an idea in case I need to do the same.

[TwoTired]

The wire colors are correct.
Th original rect. plugs into the main wire harness.  Why aren't you using those connections?

[Alan F.]

As was mentioned earlier, you can usually find a heatsink of appropriate size in any old junk computer. Just drill a hole to mount the rectifier and smear a little white heatsink compound in between.  Just keep an eye out for junk pc's at the curb on trash collection day and keep a hammer or prybar handy...take what you need and leave the rest there.

[Slams77]

Thanks TwoTired,
The connector from the rectifier is worn and cracked, but if it’s still holding up I can give it a shot. 

[Slams77]

Man….my neighbor just put his old PC out in the trash last week.  Looks like I’ll be going for some evening walks.

[Joel]

Thanks TwoTired,
The connector from the rectifier is worn and cracked, but if it’s still holding up I can give it a shot. 

This gentleman (http://vintageconnections.com/) can supply you with a new connector set for the rectifier.

[Slams77]

I have attached heat sink to the rectifier with some heat sink compound and it is ready for installation. The only thing is, the connectors on both the rectifier and the harness are cracked and the PO used butt connectors and some extra wire to fix the red lead.  The harness (which will eventually be replaced with a spare I have) looks like it has been spliced in several areas throughout the bike and either fixed with electrical tape or butt connectors.  For now, I would like to get the bike running with the new rectifier and I wanted to know if I can just add female connectors to the existing wires on the harness and plug it directly to the rectifier?  The wire is long enough to do this, plus it would reduce extra connectors. 

[Alan F.]

There should be no electrical reason why you couldn't do that.
-A

[Slams77]

The 3 phase rectifier on my CB400F is wired and bolted to the frame which now leaves me with the task of wiring the vr730 regulator.  I will attempt to wire it the same way Queeg has done so (black wire from harness to “S” on the VR and “I” not used) being that he has wired it almost the same as the stock unit.  If anyone is using the vr730 and has it wired differently please chime in.  Some questions though before I dive into the project.  After attaching the white and black wires from the harness to the regulator, I will be left with the green (ground) wire.  Can this wire be grounded to the VR case or do I run a separate wire from the case to the battery “-“ and leave this extra wire dangling?  This next one is self explanatory however I would just like to be sure…but do I run a separate wire from the regulator “A” to the battery “+”?

[Pinhead]

The case needs to be grounded. Whether it's through the harness or straight to the battery terminal.

I chose to use both, to ensure that the regulator gets true battery voltage as a reference without worrying about any corrosion/resistance that may exist throughout the wiring harness.

I don't know why the terminals on your VR730 would be any different than the original post.

"I" should be "ignition." In other words, it gets power +12v when you turn on the key.
"A+" Should be positive (+) battery voltage all of the time.
"F" Should go to the field coil.

And the case should be solidly grounded. I don't recommend grounding through the frame; one of the reasons the old Fords commonly fried the regulator is due to corrosion and/or intermittent contact to ground. This is why I personally ran a ground wire directly to the battery.

EDIT: Forget the letters, as it seems that various regulators' terminals are labeled differently. See THIS POST.

[Slams77]

Thanks for clarifying the regulator connections Pinhead, I’ll hook it up based on your original post, then use the existing ground wire and also a separate wire from the case to the battery “-“. 

[Pinhead]

Wait, wait, wait...

Let's re-examine the connections on the various regulators. Forget the letters.

Your regulator goes "I A S F"
My regulator goes "A F S I"

The letters are meaningless if this is truly how they are labeled.

Just go from left to right; they are made to plug into the original Ford wiring harness which won't change even though the letters apparently do.

From left to right with the terminals facing you:
1 - Battery (+)
2 - Field
3 - N/A
4 - Ignition
Case - Ground / Battery (-)

[Alan F.]

The letters are meaningless if this is truly how they are labeled.

Just go from left to right; they are made to plug into the original Ford wiring harness which won't change even though the letters apparently do.

There you have it, truly logical thinking. 
-Alan

[Slams77]

Thanks Pinhead.  I'll try wiring it in order from left to right.  Being that I am not electronic savvy, is there anything that will let me know if I have it installed incorrectly?  Smoke, doesn't start, electric shock?