Topic: Replacement Regulator/Rectifier CHEAP

[super pasty white guy]

For the regulator, I'm using a Kem KVR502.  I don't remember where I bought mine, but a search turned up this source: 
http://www.1fastcar.com/sa/p/KEM_-_VOLTAGE_REG__38145.htm.  You could take this list to your local autoparts and get one locally, if you want.

For the Rectifier you can get a #36MT80 from digikey.com.



Dave

[wpmb]

I have bought all the correct rectifiers and the vr301 I connect the a tetminal to battery and the f terminal to the field wiring . The i terminal is the one I am having a problem with. On the cb 650 you have 2 connectors to the rectifier 1 red white which is 12 volts positive  dark green is ground  The black wire on my diagram goes to the ingniton and that the wire that goes to the i terminal on the regulator.  I know the other field wire goes to ground.

When i do hook the black wire to I it begins to cook the regulator. So I think I must have the wrong wire . Could you tell me what wire I hook to I.

[TwoTired]

I have bought all the correct rectifiers and the vr301 I connect the a tetminal to battery and the f terminal to the field wiring . The i terminal is the one I am having a problem with. On the cb 650 you have 2 connectors to the rectifier 1 red white which is 12 volts positive  dark green is ground  The black wire on my diagram goes to the ingniton and that the wire that goes to the i terminal on the regulator.  I know the other field wire goes to ground.

When i do hook the black wire to I it begins to cook the regulator. So I think I must have the wrong wire . Could you tell me what wire I hook to I.

You don't mention grounding the regulator to Battery neg (The green wires).  It will need this reference to do it's job.  Without it, it could conceivably destroy itself.  I don't know how robust it is, as I've never used one of those regulators.

If you already have the ground but simply omitted mention of it, I don't know why it doesn't work.

Sorry,

[Pinhead]

You have to ground the casing of the regulator to the negative terminal of the battery. If you hook up ignition and power to the regulator with no "load" (the field coil) it could fry itself.

Edit: Just what TwoTired said.

[rab1dwolf]

I had to buy a different VR as no one around here sold the one you used.

I bought one similar to the one in the other post(VR650-see below)
it has according to the other thread:
Green = DF Supplies power to feild
Red = D+ from ignition
Brown = D- Ground



This whole rebuild will be my project this weekend as I'm having a fully repaired rotor delivered any day now...


edit: ok lets see if i got this right after staring at all the wiring diagrams etc...

I ground the case (how would i do that?)
the red(VR) goes to the battery+ by way of main fuse
the brown(VR) goes to ignition (kill switch etc)
the green(VR) goes to the alternator on the white wire?

the 3 yellows go to AC on rectifiers
the black on alternator and rectifier are ground?
the white on rectifier goes to battery+ by way of main fuse as well

[TwoTired]

Did your new VR come with a wire diagram or pinout description?  I don't think I can help without that.

Masybe someone else is more familiar with your unit.

Good luck!

[rab1dwolf]

nope, ill see if i can find one online somewhere, do i have the basic idea right though?

I'm working off the information in this thread for this VR: http://www.sohc4.us/forums/index.php?topic=527.0

still looking for something official online...its a wells vr650. no website or anything on the box

[Bodi]

With red, green, and brown wires I would assume that red is +12V power (red for power is pretty much universal), green goes to ground (green=ground is almost sacred) so that leaves brown to be the regulator output for the field coil.
3-wire regulators are quite common, the original Honda mechanical one only has 3 wires with the casenot part of the circuit - it doesn't need to be grounded, the rubber mounting grommets do not ground a stock regulator case.
So unless you have a data sheet for the unit you have showing the odd connection scheme you posted, I would connect it as above. The question remaining is where the other field coil wire goes. A solid state regulator can either want it on ground or +12V. I would try ground first, if it expects +12 I don't think the error would burn it out. If it wants ground then possibly +12 would fry the output device inside.

[rab1dwolf]

I was just working off of the two threads and trying to figure out how mine would hook up using the diagram posted in this one.

in the other thread it was listed as green- supplies power to field, red-12v+ from ignition, brown- Ground, so I'm just trying to figure out of those three colors where they go in the diagram.  can i test them with a mutlimeter and find out what they are?


Still havent found anything on the net, I sent an email to wells asking for something but who knows if they get back to me.

[rab1dwolf]

ok wow wells is fast they sent me a nice pdf of the regulator(see attachment)

it says
green wire - field
brown wire - ground
red wire - ignition


so they flipped the green and brown wires functions basically?

so to compare mine to the one in the picture which color equals which letter.  ex green = f


also looking at the wire diagram the white and black wires coming from the alternator are the ones connected to the brushes, so does it matter which one my VR is connected to and you said to just try the other to ground first correct?

slowly this is making sense:)

[Bodi]

Yes, I would try grounding the other field wire first.
The old mechanical ones normally provided battery power to the field, and many electronic ones were originally direct replacements for the mechanical ones.
If it doesn't work that way try applying battery power to the other field wire; if that's the way it works I recommend checking that there is no field current with the ignition off, if there is you have to connect the other field wire to a black ignition power wire... or your battery will go dead with the key off.
Also, the power should be fused if it connects direct to battery power either using an inline fuse or connecting to the fuseblock at the protected side of the MAIN fuse.

[rab1dwolf]

ok I got the alternator and rectifier parts all figure out now.

Had a friend come over and take a look at the regulator and hes gonna test it to see if what we are thinking is right.

The green wire on mine seems to be the one to hook to the battery,  so the power would be coming in here.
the red one seems to be the one the power is going out when regulated.
the brown is the ground and shares the same connections as the VR case.


so we are going to try the green hooked to the battery positive, and the red hooked to both the brush wire and the wire heading off to the kill switch, starter switch, and fuse block on the handle bars.

then everything should be getting regulated power correct?

[TwoTired]

If you could find a wire diagram of an installation where your new regulator is normally found, that would give definate clues as to how to wire it into the bike you widh to adapt it to.

Cheers,

[bryanj]

If you do what you say and have supplied the correct info you are wiring it up BACKWARDS

RED is ignition feed I.E. ONLY LIVE WHEN KEY IN ON POSITION

BROWN is GROUND I.E. BATTERY NEGATIVE

With those connected, and igniotion on, see if you get 12v dc between the green and a ground using a voltmeter, IF SO Connect the green to either of the rotor wires and the other rotor wire to ground

[rab1dwolf]

ok got it Should be good to go for tomorrow.  Did have a side question though.  I went out to the bike just now to test to make sure the wires i thought were the ignition feed etc werre right and the voltage I'm getting off the black wire (ignition feed) is about 1 volt lower then the actuall battery measures at the post.  Is this normal since it has to go through all the other electronics and switches and such?  or do i need to get in there and clean the hell out of everything and double check my connections?  (probably will do this anyways)

[bryanj]

You need to get  in there and clean all the contacts, specialy the ignition switch.
1 volt is nearly a 10% drop would you accept 10% less of anything else as normal?

[rab1dwolf]

with all the wierd things that have happened with this bike "normal" takes on a whole new meaning

[rab1dwolf]

well i got it all wired up and installed today.  took a couple hours but wasn't too bad.  I'm still waiting on my rotor in the mail but so far everything is looking good.  I tested all my connections with my multimeter and everything that was supposed to have power did and nothing exploded or electricuted me so I think I can chaulk this one up as a "win"

[Pinhead]

BTT By popular demand.

[GoatBaSS]

I am on the edge of my seat in antici-------------pation.....

[mustangcar]

anyone try the setup using the Ford regulator on their 750, I think Pinhead did this on a 650,,,thanks

[troppo]

great thread here guys
not being electronic myself this sort of info helps explain things nicely, might wind up with one of these set ups on my bike too
cheers
troppo

[Pinhead]

BTT... Is this sticky material??

[pbelanger]

Hi All,

2 1/2 years back, I bought a V/R from Autoparts. Maker is KEM, model is KVR502. It was originally intended to be used  on 1976 Porsche 911's. Works like a charm. Cost was  11.76$ back then.

NOTE: be careful where you buy. For example, Amazon lists it at 26$.

An SOHC member gave me the following info at the time:

Honda           KEM VR        Purpose
White           Green           DF Supplies power to field.
Black            Red             D+ 12V+ from ignition.
Green           Brown          D- Ground.

Paul

[Pinhead]

BTT