Author Topic: Replacement Regulator/Rectifier CHEAP (Read 194026 times)

Pwfyrcat1 · « **Reply #75 on:** September 11, 2008, 02:30:00 PM »

And me having to do the same to a 750. I will have to give it a go

Pwfyrcat1 · « **Reply #76 on:** September 11, 2008, 02:58:04 PM »

So when I am looking for the rectifier, what combination of amp/volts should I look for?

I am going to need to read this thread several times...

tatergirl77 · « **Reply #77 on:** September 12, 2008, 06:54:28 AM »

BAD A$$!!!

i'm just dropping back in to say that this system works perfectly now! got everything hooked up and bolted down, and covered the terminals with a coat of white lithium grease, and the charging prob is a thing of the past. at 6k rms it topped out @ 13.76v .. so it charges the battery like it should but doesn't overload AT ALL. Than you guys so much for the extra help

now everything works right, i get to do the fun stuff (paint & new turn signal lights, ect) WOOHOOO!

Pwfyrcat1 · « **Reply #78 on:** September 12, 2008, 03:56:05 PM »

Will this work for this mod:
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/36MT60/3-PHASE-BRIDGE-RECTIFIER-35A-600V/1.html

TwoTired · « **Reply #79 on:** September 12, 2008, 04:41:53 PM »

Quote from: Pwfyrcat1 on September 12, 2008, 03:56:05 PM

Will this work for this mod:
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/36MT60/3-PHASE-BRIDGE-RECTIFIER-35A-600V/1.html

Yes, it looks like it will.

Cheers,

Sherman · « **Reply #80 on:** September 18, 2008, 01:09:41 PM »

I have done a similar project. I don't have pictures but I have the diagram I used to do the project. I used the cheap and available parts from the Delco 10SI alternators. This circuit has the advantage that it uses only a small amount of battery voltage to get polarized and then it is completely self producing with no load to the battery.
Click thumbnail for full sized picture.

My bike started off with a shorted rotor and I had to buy a replacement. It charges better than the factory one now.
One should always check the rotor resistance with a good digital meter and make sure the resistance is about 5 ohms.

Pwfyrcat1 · « **Reply #81 on:** September 18, 2008, 03:07:47 PM »

Man these things are tiny!

Now lets see if I can't get them hooked up!

ev0lution7 · « **Reply #82 on:** September 18, 2008, 03:10:42 PM »

mine worked great i love it charges my battery perfect.

Pwfyrcat1 · « **Reply #83 on:** September 18, 2008, 04:35:40 PM »

Just curious, can a heatsink be any type of metal? Though I am probably going to go to radio shack and pick one up tonight.

ev0lution7 · « **Reply #84 on:** September 18, 2008, 04:37:26 PM »

aluminium is best but i made mine out of aluminium stock that i bent in a bench vice and the cut some slots for cooling in it and used heatsink paste that i got from radio shack to attatch it also i painted it to kinda match the factory piece.

Pwfyrcat1 · « **Reply #85 on:** September 18, 2008, 04:52:12 PM »

ev0 7, thx

I have some flat aluminum stock. Though I don't have the paste, I still have to go to RS

Though, if it's just silicon, won't any black silicon do?

ev0lution7 · « **Reply #86 on:** September 18, 2008, 05:16:48 PM »

it needs to stay fluid not adheasive.... believe me i work on computers its totally different stuff....

Pwfyrcat1 · « **Reply #87 on:** September 18, 2008, 07:26:11 PM »

TwoTired,

Since I am using the 5 prong unit, do I only need one?

ev0lution7 · « **Reply #88 on:** September 19, 2008, 08:19:32 AM »

yes

3 wires goto the yellow
1 wires goes to the red
1wires goes to the black

Pwfyrcat1 · « **Reply #89 on:** September 19, 2008, 01:26:44 PM »

So where or to what, is the heatsink compound applied?

Pwfyrcat1 · « **Reply #90 on:** September 19, 2008, 03:36:40 PM »

So this is what i have so far...

I used the wires from the old rectifier. Over at hondachopper.com there are wiring instructions for the 750, that utilizes the 750 stock wiring harness, prongs and all. Again, to avoid paying out large quantity of money for my near ZRO project.

Take a look and let me know if I need to switch the red and green wires +/-.

The white wire I believe comes from the regulator and will be attached with the other five wires to the six prongs that come off of the engine.

It's in their garage section of Santee wiring instructions

And thanks for all the help

Pwfyrcat1 · « **Reply #91 on:** September 20, 2008, 12:07:29 PM »

does anyone have an answer for my last two posts?

Pwfyrcat1 · « **Reply #92 on:** September 20, 2008, 02:52:34 PM »

Just in case it's too much work, I found this info over at the Metric Underground.

http://hondarectifiers.com/

Sherman · « **Reply #93 on:** September 20, 2008, 04:32:30 PM »

I uploaded a picture layout of the schematic posted earlier. It might answer some of the questions about heatsink compound and such.
Sherman's Voltage Regulator Project

mikethejeepguy · « **Reply #94 on:** September 22, 2008, 06:27:48 AM »

This is an awesome post. I just read all 7 pages and am sold. I've been having charging troubles too and got left on the side of the road on the weekend with a dead battery after hitting apparently one too many stop signs and red lights. Unfortunately most of my riding is city riding. So the way I understand it, there are two ways of setting up the rectifiers. You only need 1 Three phase rectifier, or 2 connecte 1 phase rectifiers right? Can anyone recommend a good place in Toronto/Mississauga/Ontario to purchase these? Much thanks.

ev0lution7 · « **Reply #95 on:** September 23, 2008, 11:47:12 AM »

http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/rectifiers3p.html

this guy sells a completed product same thing though but 2x more expensive than the one i built he also has NEW connectors if you want to RENEW your plug for the harness i looked at mine (which melted) and i thought it was a good upgrade and i also bought a new plug (6pin) for my fuse box as it was badly coroded

so overall its a good upgrade and can really help out poor charging systems !

just so you know i also had the option to put in a COMBO unit i didnt do that for 2 reason:
1. it doesnt apear to be stock
2. like a combo DVD/VCR if one or the other or both go out i have to replace the UNIT! if my combo reg/recifier goes out or just one of them i have to replace the whole thing (sometimes $100) so i chose to go with a seperate unit because if my recifier fails then i just replace the little rec for $14 or if my regulator fails (its a solid state unit from oregonmotorcyclesparts and has a lifetime warr) then i just replace that seperate! its much simplier then and it APPEARS STOCK!

mikethejeepguy · « **Reply #96 on:** September 23, 2008, 08:56:10 PM »

You make a realy good point about the failure and replacement AND a good analogy too!

I would like to go the same way as you did. The regulator from Oregon, and the rectifier I can build. I have an old rectifier that I can use the harness & cartridge from. Do you remember where you got your rectifier from? and which unit?

ev0lution7 · « **Reply #97 on:** September 25, 2008, 08:06:55 PM »

if you look back a few pages i gave the item i ordered its from Digikey and its a 3 phase 35A recitifier

DONT FORGET to replace the harness plugs on the chargin system like the one from the stator on the engine and the one for the rectifier and the one on the fuse box those are HUGE spots for charging loss!

JP74 · « **Reply #98 on:** October 13, 2008, 10:15:51 AM »

my regulator is shot, but my rectifier seems to be ok, i haven't seen any posts of people using the stock rectifier with the mid 70's pickup regulator (autozone PN VR730)... any reason why using the new regulator with the stock rec would be a problem?

JP74 · « **Reply #99 on:** October 14, 2008, 08:59:48 AM »

i picked up the autozone VR730 regulator, however there are no markings on it or info... not sure what to wire what to, looks just like the regulator in the original post. any help or photo would be amazing. thanks.

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Author Topic: Replacement Regulator/Rectifier CHEAP (Read 194026 times)

tatergirl77

Sherman

ev0lution7

ev0lution7

ev0lution7

ev0lution7

Sherman

ev0lution7

ev0lution7