Author Topic: Replacement Regulator/Rectifier CHEAP (Read 192159 times)

scottly · « **Reply #300 on:** June 19, 2011, 05:46:53 PM »

Hmm, your info came from "junkyard genius"

Mine came from the 46th edition MOTOR Auto Repair Manual, 1983, Professional Service Trade Edition.

Pinhead · « **Reply #301 on:** June 19, 2011, 06:29:35 PM »

Quote from: scottly on June 19, 2011, 05:46:53 PM

Hmm, your info came from "junkyard genius"
Mine came from the 46th edition MOTOR Auto Repair Manual, 1983, Professional Service Trade Edition.

Yeah, but that was just one example (that was also the easiest diagram to follow to be used as an example). Like I said, I keep finding the regulator wired both ways on multiple diagrams.

I originally wired mine according to a Haynes manual (and I was "Ignition").

I just want to know what the difference is, in years, models, engines, or just VIN numbers, that is causing this discrepancy.

scottly · « **Reply #302 on:** June 19, 2011, 06:48:47 PM »

There are 2 wiring schemes used with the Ford regs, regardless of whether or not they are mechanical or solid state: with indicator light, or with ammeter. The ammeter scheme fits our bikes. (An ammeter acts like a piece of wire to an electrical system, so it can be disregarded).
If you want to use the other scheme, you need to add a low wattage indicator light, and modify the stator to tap into the common point. Ford alternators have this terminal, but our bikes don't.

brcree · « **Reply #303 on:** August 24, 2011, 10:32:37 AM »

Thanks Ya'll.....you guys are a life saver...me Ol 750 will on the road soon now!

SchoolDaGeek · « **Reply #304 on:** September 02, 2011, 06:12:59 PM »

Quote from: underachiever on July 06, 2010, 05:43:53 AM

Quote
and here's to you Pinhead!

Amen to that.

Now it's making power but it was charging a bit high. Remember to check and adjust your regulator if necessary. Check core gap, it's OK, check point gap and reset to spec. Test again. Still charging high. Adjust regulator screw. Test and repeat.

Now I've got 14+ Volts above 3000rpms, it tops out about 14.5V and at idle i get about 12.8-12.9V.

And thanks to this thread I was able to do it in less than a day for less than $10.

I never cease to be amazed by the wealth of knowledge available on this site.

Tony

Tony you are the only person in this entire thread that gave a good explanation to my "already" knowledge, but I need what part number you used and from where. At Autozone the Duralast VR1227 takes a week to get and costs $134. Which model did you buy and open up with a screwdriver? (LOL)

Totaled108 · « **Reply #305 on:** September 30, 2011, 02:27:20 AM »

I'll add my silly little experience on here. I bought a bike that had been messed with by the PO, seems like he glanced at this thread, threw it together and never tried to do it right. He said he rode it that way all summer. The rectifiers were hooked up wrong, and the battery was charging at 18volts at 4000rpms!!

My buddy and I triple checked all the wires and simply swapped the existing wires around as per this thread. Now at 4000rpms, the battery is steady at 14.3ish. So glad the VR was not fried. It is a VR730, terminals lined up as, I-A-S-F and hooked them up as the letters read out, and now all I have to do is re jet the carbs and sync them.

Wicked thread!!!

caluser2000 · « **Reply #306 on:** October 29, 2011, 09:02:29 PM »

Nice thread. I've just recently had a charging issue on my '76 550F which I've isolated to the rectifier. I tested the system with an old 750 rectifier I have. I'm certainly going to give one of the cheap 3 phase rectifiers a shot, have a couple of old cpu heatinks, as the 750 one is far to long to locate behind the side cover.

As an aside how does one wire up those 8 wire reg/recs to act as a rect. only. Reason I asked is I tried, made up an adapter cable with what appeared to be the correct configuration and fried some wires. I've seen post on the forum saying they are ok to use but no specific wiring layout. Sorted some other wiring issues whilst rewiring too.

Thanks in advance.

scottly · « **Reply #307 on:** October 29, 2011, 09:19:37 PM »

If you melted wires on the 8 wire unit, you may have let the magic smoke out of it.

Welcome to the forum! Have you heard of the relay? It's in NZ right now!

Spanner 1 · « **Reply #308 on:** October 29, 2011, 09:30:11 PM »

You can use an aftermarket R/R on your bike as a rectifier only BUT you need to know that there is 1 MAJOR difference between the Honda wiring colors and aftermarket products. Honda always used BLACK as 12V+ for wiring on their SOHC bikes ( Black = 12v + with switch 'on' ). The R/R you have uses Black as GROUND and the wiring would be ; Yellow/yellow/yellow to 3 x yellow ( no sequence ).
Red to red/white and Black to Green ( ground )

caluser2000 · « **Reply #309 on:** October 29, 2011, 09:35:21 PM »

Thanks. Yeah seen mention of the relay on a local site.

I suspect the rec/rect is ok, it was the bikes wiring that smoked up

. All fixed now though.

Owned the ol gal since '86. It let me down last weekend so decided spend some quality time with her. Done 146,000 odd kms now.

scottly · « **Reply #310 on:** October 29, 2011, 09:40:29 PM »

Cool. If you do go with a 5 wire 3-phase rectifier, they are very easy to hook up...

caluser2000 · « **Reply #311 on:** October 29, 2011, 09:46:24 PM »

Quote from: Spanner 1 on October 29, 2011, 09:30:11 PM

You can use an aftermarket R/R on your bike as a rectifier only BUT you need to know that there is 1 MAJOR difference between the Honda wiring colors and aftermarket products. Honda always used BLACK as 12V+ for wiring on their SOHC bikes ( Black = 12v + with switch 'on' ). The R/R you have uses Black as GROUND and the wiring would be ; Yellow/yellow/yellow to 3 x yellow ( no sequence ).
Red to red/white and Black to Green ( ground )

Thanks. It was a Honda wire reg/rect which had a fry up though. Definitely a known good one as well. Not really an issue really now though as mentioned above I've decided to go the budget route.

Spanner 1 · « **Reply #312 on:** October 29, 2011, 09:49:33 PM »

Ride the relay Mr. NZ.... see 'Relay Ride around the World"... it's on your doorstep, don't miss out !!

caluser2000 · « **Reply #313 on:** October 29, 2011, 10:05:40 PM »

Quote from: scottly on October 29, 2011, 09:40:29 PM

Cool. If you do go with a 5 wire 3-phase rectifier, they are very easy to hook up...

Yip. I like simple. Got a few other plans for the old girl. Have a GB400 with a stuffed motor I'm going the transfer the wheels/forks/brakes over from I if can't pick up a cheap replacement donk.

caluser2000 · « **Reply #314 on:** October 29, 2011, 10:10:28 PM »

Quote from: Spanner 1 on October 29, 2011, 09:49:33 PM

Ride the relay Mr. NZ.... see 'Relay Ride around the World"... it's on your doorstep, don't miss out !!

I prefer being called Bonez. Here's a recent pic of my baby:

scottly · « **Reply #315 on:** October 29, 2011, 10:25:33 PM »

Hey Bonez, send a PM (personal message) to Hush. He's the relay coordinator for NZ.
Don't see the pic; you may have to downsize it to attach it directly.

caluser2000 · « **Reply #316 on:** October 29, 2011, 10:32:33 PM »

Interesting. Is there a pic size limit on the site?

scottly · « **Reply #317 on:** October 29, 2011, 10:37:40 PM »

Yeah. You can attach a single pic up to 1 meg, or several smaller pics, the total still below 1 meg.

caluser2000 · « **Reply #318 on:** October 29, 2011, 10:53:01 PM »

Hmmm. Properties of the pic is only 448kb or therabouts. Just changed the link to photobucket. How's that?
Pic of 750 reg attached for testing purposes:

simple wiring guide:

caluser2000 · « **Reply #319 on:** October 30, 2011, 10:30:38 PM »

Can someone please give me the digikey 3 phase rectifier part no. I could use for this application? TIA

Cancel that I used the search function,, Handy thing that :- http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&site=nz&keywords=36MT80-ND&x=0&y=0

Or
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&site=nz&keywords=641-1392-ND&x=0&y=0
Any others that are suitable?

Pinhead · « **Reply #320 on:** October 31, 2011, 12:06:28 AM »

If I were doing it again, I'd use THIS.

caluser2000 · « **Reply #321 on:** October 31, 2011, 12:33:35 AM »

Looks the bis alright.

cben750f0 · « **Reply #322 on:** November 02, 2011, 04:42:23 AM »

hey guys, i bought this as a 3 phase solid state rectifier

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/120701464197?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

this would be ok

ok so i built mine for the moment with 2 rectifiers, my question is, can the ground wires use the same green wire location on the plug. i have found a plug that will match the honda plug, and wired it up the same as the honda rectifier plug, ground to green wire on the plug...would that be cool... i guessing yes, but sometimes i over think things and doubt...haha...

thanks in advance,

peace

gaillarry · « **Reply #323 on:** November 17, 2011, 05:28:08 AM »

Anyone tried one of these: Ebay Item Number 280759835035

CycleRanger · « **Reply #324 on:** November 17, 2011, 08:11:22 AM »

I used a single one of these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/35-AMP-3-THREE-PHASE-BRIDGE-RECTIFIER-WIND-/400182097335?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d2cb635b7

Ordered a plug and spade connectors from: http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/connectors.html

When I build another I'll probably look for a rectifier that that has terminals that extend out the side rather than the top just to make mounting on the bike easier.

Used this solid-state VR124: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C7YK4I/ref=oh_o03_s00_i00_details

Both working fine.

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Author Topic: Replacement Regulator/Rectifier CHEAP (Read 192159 times)