Author Topic: Replacement Regulator/Rectifier CHEAP (Read 193619 times)

Pinhead · « **Reply #100 on:** October 14, 2008, 11:49:27 AM »

Having never worked with the 750s' electrical system I can't be 100% positive. However, the only thing I can think of that could be wrong with using the original rectifier is voltage loss. If the original rectifier is a selenium rectifier instead of silicon, it would take 1.5v instead of .7v to "activate" it and therefore you would be wasting a tad bit more power to make the charging system work. This is all conjecture at this point, though. Someone like Twotired would have to verify. Having said that, the system should still work.

About the regulator... Since the regulator is made to simply plug into the original wiring harness, all of the regulators will be wired the same. With the spade terminals facing towards you, it will go "A F S I" from left to right.

JP74 · « **Reply #101 on:** October 14, 2008, 12:49:29 PM »

Thank you Pinhead for the info, and for this thread. the voltage loss issues makes sense, i'll have to wire up the regulator and see how much loss there is... unless TT chimes in and advises me otherwise.

thanks for the wiring info!

Pinhead · « **Reply #102 on:** October 14, 2008, 08:03:07 PM »

No problem.

ev0lution7 · « **Reply #103 on:** October 15, 2008, 08:11:01 PM »

i didnt know a recifier could be such a HUGE topic... it seemed simple to me (like 1-2 pages)

anyways Digikey part # for the 3 phase 5 post rectifier.... 36MT80-ND RECT BRIDGE 3-PHA 800V 35A D-63

http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/rectifiers3p.html

that is the link for the rectifiers already made up from oregonmotorcycle parts!

http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/vregulators.html

that is the link for the REGULATORS already made up from oregonmotorcycle parts!

i used my own creation for the recifier... and bought a regulator from the above guys!

IT IS ALWAYS A GOOD IDEA TO REPLACE YOUR WIRING CONNECTORS (8PIN) @ STATOR AND (6PIN) @ FUSE BOX AND RECTIFIER!

if not you will be WAISTING your time replacing new parts with old connectors its like rebuilding a bike and putting in the old gas from 2 years ago.... not very wise if you ask me.

Pinhead · « **Reply #104 on:** October 15, 2008, 10:23:20 PM »

I know all you guys that spent your money on Oregonmotorcycleparts' regulator think it's all that and a cup of tea... But the main difference is the price. $58 versus $15. Their rectifiers are terribly overpriced as well. I fail to see the advantage; they both serve the exact same function and have the same features.

Pinhead · « **Reply #105 on:** February 19, 2009, 06:36:01 PM »

BTT by request.

masonryman · « **Reply #106 on:** February 19, 2009, 07:09:26 PM »

lots of info, I'm looking for parts now

GammaFlat · « **Reply #107 on:** February 26, 2009, 10:50:28 AM »

What a great thread. I bought the VR730 Ford voltage regulator and I haven't changed much since I was a little kid.... I just have to take things apart (see pics below). I'm trying to arrange my electrical "panel" and the casing on the VR seems a little bulky.

Here's the Ford regulator next to the Honda:

The form factor of the Ford is from the "olden days" when it was mechanical. I'd like to chop down the enclosure some and I'm wondering how much heat I could expect from it. In other words, is the case being used as a heat sink and how much of it (if any) is required?

Any thoughts folks?

I have a couple other parts either on the way or "in house" for my rebuild of the electrical panel. More on that later... (blade fuse box, www.vintageconnections.com connectors, rectifers, heat sink, etc.). This thread really catapulted me into attacking my electrical system and I'm glad I did - I'll document and report results - thanks!

Pinhead · « **Reply #108 on:** February 26, 2009, 02:35:40 PM »

Very interesting. I don't know how much of a heat sink the casing is, but I know it pretty well never gets even warm to the touch. I'm interested to see what you come up with!

GammaFlat · « **Reply #109 on:** February 26, 2009, 04:07:07 PM »

Regarding the A I S F connections on the Duralast VR730 (voltage regulator).... The S is "un-used"?!?! Is it possible that the S is a good ground? There is a smidge of resistance between S and the housing. Maybe good enough?

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #110 on:** February 27, 2009, 08:58:45 AM »

Yeah, I don't think the case is much of a heat sink, you could definitely reduce the size of the casing and probably not heat up much.

GammaFlat · « **Reply #111 on:** February 27, 2009, 09:00:59 AM »

ummmmm. I got crazy last night with the tin snips:

Thanks for your reply though. I think you're right. The more I looked at it, the more I thought it couldn't be making much heat.

mark · « **Reply #112 on:** February 27, 2009, 09:52:11 AM »

Quote from: GammaFlat on February 26, 2009, 04:07:07 PM

Regarding the A I S F connections on the Duralast VR730 (voltage regulator).... The S is "un-used"?!?! Is it possible that the S is a good ground? ......

NOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!

If the Ford had an ammeter, 'S' goes to the ignition switch.

If the Ford had an idiot light, 'S' goes to the 'stator' terminal on the alternator.

Regulator is grounded through the mounting bolts.

GammaFlat · « **Reply #113 on:** February 27, 2009, 09:53:28 AM »

Quote from: mark on February 27, 2009, 09:52:11 AM

Quote from: GammaFlat on February 26, 2009, 04:07:07 PM
Regarding the A I S F connections on the Duralast VR730 (voltage regulator).... The S is "un-used"?!?! Is it possible that the S is a good ground? ......

NOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!

If the Ford had an ammeter, 'S' goes to the ignition switch.

If the Ford had an idiot light, 'S' goes to the 'stator' terminal on the alternator.

Regulator is grounded through the mounting bolts.

You gotta love this place - ask and you shall receive.

mark · « **Reply #114 on:** February 27, 2009, 10:01:20 AM »

useless without pix......

TwoTired · « **Reply #115 on:** February 27, 2009, 01:30:47 PM »

Quote from: mark on February 27, 2009, 10:01:20 AM

useless without pix......

Nice post!

cdoggy81 · « **Reply #116 on:** May 18, 2009, 01:48:33 PM »

Any updates on this?
Any known replacements & how you wired them to work for your cb750?

GammaFlat · « **Reply #117 on:** May 18, 2009, 02:03:25 PM »

I have been playing with replacement connectors, blade fuse holders and rectifiers (anyone need any heat sinks for a rectifier? I overbought a little. ). Next is regulators (replace factory version) and relays (to "unload" the ignition switch and manage the headlight). I will probably be putting the replacement Voltage Regulator in this week (the Ford VR730). I'll post my results as soon as I have some. I believe others have used the VR730 successfully.

Regards,
John

masonryman · « **Reply #118 on:** May 23, 2009, 11:10:09 AM »

Quote from: mark on February 27, 2009, 09:52:11 AM

Quote from: GammaFlat on February 26, 2009, 04:07:07 PM
Regarding the A I S F connections on the Duralast VR730 (voltage regulator).... The S is "un-used"?!?! Is it possible that the S is a good ground? ......

NOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!

If the Ford had an ammeter, 'S' goes to the ignition switch.

If the Ford had an idiot light, 'S' goes to the 'stator' terminal on the alternator.

Regulator is grounded through the mounting bolts.

This may have helped fix my problem. I have built one of these and installed the bridge rectifiers in the same housing, every time I start the bike it gets hot and starts smoking.

The regulator housing is mounted in a pan under the seat and this pan is not specifically grounded and is most likely not getting good enough contact to ground the regulator causing the alt to run wide open all the time

GammaFlat · « **Reply #119 on:** May 23, 2009, 11:49:29 AM »

I had a similar thought. When you look at how much surface area there is in a Honda rectifier compared to the cover of the voltage regulator.... it looks like the VR730 would "serve the purpose". My notion was to put the rectifiers inside and cut openings in the sides of the cover.

It's a good thing the VR730's are only $13.

Pinhead · « **Reply #120 on:** June 18, 2009, 09:56:01 PM »

Just as an update to this project... The original post was in '06. I'm still on the same battery as when I started the project. I've never had it on the trickle charger, never had to bump start the bike, and haven't done any more maintenance/modification to the charging system. That means my "cheap walmart battery" has lasted 3 years and is showing absolutely no sign of going bad.

caraudi0king · « **Reply #121 on:** June 30, 2009, 08:53:24 PM »

Thank you guys so much. This site/post has made my life ALOT easier.

Queeg · « **Reply #122 on:** July 13, 2009, 01:42:59 AM »

ok i went thru my second rectifier in my 550 this weekend. first one was bad when i got the bike and didnt let the batter charge , i put the one of the bike im building for my girlfried, it let go this weekend( to many beers and a dark enigine compartment when i tried to jump it)

bummer too it worked great.
made a new one from parts picked up at the local electronics store.
now im thinking of getting a new regulator too. so im partially electronics savy but the mess of wires on my bike is driving me crazy.

so i f i go with the VR730
can i use the green, white, black wires diretly on the new regulator?
or do i have to go in deeper and cut/redo wiring?

Alan F. · « **Reply #123 on:** July 13, 2009, 06:09:10 AM »

If it helps, I asked Pinhead in another thread if this thread was all updated with his latest edits, he told me yes it is. So read up and don't forget to ground the case of your vr730.

Pinhead · « **Reply #124 on:** July 13, 2009, 10:25:00 AM »

I've never worked on the 550 so I don't know color codes.

I used female spade connectors to connect to the stock wiring harness without modifying the harness at all.

News:

Author Topic: Replacement Regulator/Rectifier CHEAP (Read 193619 times)

ev0lution7

masonryman

masonryman

caraudi0king