Topic: Replacement Regulator/Rectifier CHEAP

[Pinhead]

Is the VR730 a solid state regulator? And in the one diagram it shows to rectifiers is there a modal that can be used to just run one. I just learning on wiring so im a little lost here. Im replacing all the connectors on the bike and was wandering if i can wire these up using the stock wiring alone? Sorry if i ask something thats been answered here somewhere.

Yes, it's solid state and Yes, there is a "three phase" rectifier in the original post.

I just bought a couple off eBay like HERE

[Joel]

Is there any way to calculate how much heat these rectifiers dissipate?

http://www.guerte.com/en/Products2/PDetail.aspx?ID=12497

Yes, but not with those specs.
You need to know what the forward v drop is, and the current passing through it.  That will give you a watts consumed/dissipated, which you can convert to BTUs.

But, that seems like an odd request.  What are you going to do with a BTU per hour specification?  You installing an Easy Bake oven on your bike and going to heat it with the rectifier?

What can I say, I like fresh, warm brownies after a nice ride.

The only other info I could find on them was a claim of "low forward voltage drop" and a VF of 1.1 V.

[Thomas]

Finally got my membeship activated after registering a week ago.  Now I can search and I found exactly what I was lookig for!  My 75 cb750 doesn't charge, checked the stator and coil, both tested fine.  The stock regulator points don't move at all.  When I move the points by hand still no voltage change.  So I assume the rectifier is bad.  I tested it and the diode's are coming back with nothing.

So I bought a 3 phase 35a rectifier, and I'm going to Oreilly's (where I work) to pick up the R400 regulator.  Hopefully I can get this all hooked up and working so I can ride it.  Just bought it and I will not tolerate it sitting all summer.

Thanks for the great information guys.  I'm glad the PO pointed me to this site.

-Thomas

[Alan F.]

Welcome and good luck. Pictures, post pictures!
-Alan

[Thomas]

Well I got the Ford regulator and a 3 phase solid state rectifier.  After some multi-meter testing to figure out which wire was ignition swith and which was for the rotor, I hooked it up in about 15 minutes and started it up.  At cold idle it had 12.56v.  Revved it up and it climbed gradually to 16v and back down.  Took it for a spin and it didn't die so that's new! haha.  I checked it when I pulled back in and at idle it was 13.30v.  PERFECT!  And for only $20 dollars in parts!  I'm so glad I found this thread.

By the way, I hooked up the regulator according to the diagram, where it goes left to right 1.Battery-2.Rotor-3.Empty-4.IgnSw.

I'll see if I can get some pics up, but as of right now it looks really hacked together and the wires are a mess.  Now that it's working I can finally clean them up.

-Thomas

[Alan F.]

Great work Thomas, and welcome to the forums.  Please take a minute and update your profile to show your location and be sure to include what bike you have so nobody ever has to ask.


Great news for sure, if a new member who can use a meter can read this thread and get his system wired and working....it's good info.

I've had the parts for months, but my project is still on the bench, sucks when it's easy to put it off 'cause you have something else to ride eh?

Cheers Thomas, and here's to you Pinhead!
-Alan

[underachiever]

and here's to you Pinhead!

Amen to that.

I'd been dealing with a slowly draining battery when riding. Sometimes down only a tenth of a volt after a ride. Sometimes more. Then last week while visiting some friends, I found my turn signals didn't work while riding through town. I originally thought there may be a problem with the switch but when I got to my pal's place I checked the battery voltage and it was in the mid 10's when I got there.

Didn't want to stay late in case I had to make hand signals all the way home and when I left the battery was mid 11's. Took the country route out of town and kept the revs high, 5k plus most of the way. eventually the signals started to work briefly and I got it home without any drama and got it charged.

Yesterday I did a full charge test and found my rectifier basically DOA. While searching for options I happened across this thread. The hardest part was actually finding the parts rather than putting them together. The fifth place I went to had them. Two single phase 35A 600V rectifiers and about $9 later I headed home to fix it.

A bit of soldering, a bit of crimping, make a heatsink and mount things up a bit differently on the electrics plate and test again. Now it's making power but it was charging a bit high. Remember to check and adjust your regulator if necessary. Check core gap, it's OK, check point gap and reset to spec. Test again. Still charging high. Adjust regulator screw. Test and repeat.

Now I've got 14+ Volts above 3000rpms, it tops out about 14.5V and at idle i get about 12.8-12.9V.

And thanks to this thread I was able to do it in less than a day for less than $10.

I never cease to be amazed by the wealth of knowledge available on this site.

Tony

[Alan F.]

That's Awesome Tony, congrats!

[Pinhead]

I'm glad this thread is still going strong! Surprised it hasn't been "stickied" yet, though.

[eideteker]

I'm glad this thread is still going strong! Surprised it hasn't been "stickied" yet, though.

Are the makers/purveyors of the ~$100 reg/rec units paying sponsors of the site?  I hate to be pessimistic, but this is how some other forums I've been a member of work when it comes to money. 

[eideteker]

I successfully installed the VR730 regulator and 3-phase rectifier today, but they work a little too well - I'm getting upwards of 15v at 4000+ RPM!  As I was revving it and watching the voltmeter, I could see the battery starting to bubble...why is it charging so high?  Will it come down at all on its own, or is there something I can adjust?

[TwoTired]

Is the regulator sensing the actual battery voltage or a lower voltage with some lost via resistive connections in the wiring?

[Pinhead]

There is no adjustment needed for the regulator.

Over-charging could be caused by resistance causing a voltage drop at one of the regulator's positive terminals. Test the voltage at the "battery" and "ignition" terminals at the regulator. My guess is one of these terminals will read between 13.8v and 14.4v. If so, your wiring harness has resistance which is causing the bike to over-charge.

Did you run a new wire from the battery terminal straight to the regulator? I believe this would solve your problem.

EDIT: TwoTired and I are suspecting the same thing.

[eideteker]

I did run a wire from the regulator to the battery, but all I had was 12 gauge wire.  Should I make it 10 gauge or larger?

[Pinhead]

I did run a wire from the regulator to the battery, but all I had was 12 gauge wire.  Should I make it 10 gauge or larger?

No; there is very little current drawn by the regulator itself.

I'd still check voltages at the regulator to make sure it is "seeing" the same voltage as the battery.

[TwoTired]

The +12 wire to the regulator is only 1/2 the path.  The regulator's battery Neg connection must be scrutinized, too.

[Pinhead]

The +12 wire to the regulator is only 1/2 the path.  The regulator's battery Neg connection must be scrutinized, too.

Ah, yes, I forgot. Make sure the case of the regulator has a good, solid path straight to the negative terminal of the battery (I ran a wire here as well).

[eideteker]

The case of the regulator has a dedicated line right to the negative post.  I'm going to redo the positive line today, I just used whatever crimp-on spade and ring terminals I had around and they were of questionable quality.

[laser145]

This thread sounds great...but confuses the hell out of me.

I'm comfortable at least attempting every other mechanical repair on my bike, then I get to electrical and I just get lost.

My 750 K6 won't charge so I've been reading up on the potential causes for awhile now...still so lost.

I guess I'll be back with questions once I know what to ask! Unless anyone around NYC wants to walk me through this in person in exchange for a case of beer...

Cheers

[GammaFlat]

My 750 K6 won't charge so I've been reading up on the potential causes for awhile now...still so lost.

Do some basic diagnostics and come back with details.  ...maybe start a new thread.  Put a volt meter on your bike with it running and observe the voltage while raising the RPM.  If the voltage is going up at all, you are getting at least some charging. 

Inadequate charging is probably one of a couple of things in order of probability (my opinion):

• Dirty connectors (green wire near seat latch to frame, shell connector to engine, shell connector rectifier
• blown or partially blown rectifier
• Voltage Regulator out of adjustment or malfunctioning

The connectors can all be replaced pretty inexpensively (sources mentioned in this thread).  Before you do anything, make sure all your connectors are in good shape.  Often you'll find them white and crusty - not good. 

[eideteker]

Redid the +12v line to the regulator and checked the ground line, both are solid.  Idle gives me 12v at the battery (great!), holding the revs at anything higher than idle gives me a climbing voltage reading all the way to 16v.  My stock connectors don't look too horrible; there wasn't a lot of crusty junk that I could see and I used contact cleaner on them.  Do I have to rewire the entire bike to chase down this resistance? 

[TwoTired]

No.  Follow directions and measure the voltage that the Vreg is sensing and compare it to actual battery voltage under the same circumstances/instantaneous.   Is it seeing 16V? Report.

If the Vreg is seeing/measuring 16V and not throttling back the alternator output, it is faulty and/or inappropriate to your bike.

[eideteker]

No.  Follow directions and measure the voltage that the Vreg is sensing and compare it to actual battery voltage under the same circumstances/instantaneous.   Is it seeing 16V? Report.

If the Vreg is seeing/measuring 16V and not throttling back the alternator output, it is faulty and/or inappropriate to your bike.

Just want to get it straight - simultaneously measure the field input to the regulator and the battery voltage (so I'm seeing both sides of what the regulator is seeing)? 

Thanks for your patience and assistance TT and Pinhead!

[TwoTired]

Um sort of...
The alternator field is the electromagnet.  It takes power from the regulator to determine how strong the magnetic field is and therefore the output strength of the alternator.

What you want is to see if the regulator has the correct information about the battery.    You could measure the voltage drop between battery POS terminal the black wire input to the Vreg. (assuming you still have Honda color code wiring.)
Also measure if there is a difference in potential between the Vreg Green and the Battery NEG terminal.
A voltmeter just measures V potential difference between the probes.

Let's say the both the wire paths lose a volt between battery and Vreg. Under these conditions, the Vreg thinks 16V at the battery is really 14 V and still under the 14.5v peak, so it keeps the alternator output high and overcharges the battery.

[dave500]

bosch RE57 reg $30 aus.still available,these were the replacement in the day for the tin box coil/point reg on holdens with bosch external regulator 35 amp alternators into the 70s,D+,DF,D- terminals part number 9190067010-44z,made in australia.