Topic: switched points....1/4 wont close

[flybox1]

Ok...I've had an aftermarket points and condenser set for a while, and it has treated me well.  I got a ND plate in a parts lot, and the points and condensers are definitely useable.  Thought I'dput them on.
I need to add that I have no dwell meter or timing light.  Just want to get gap set. I'll worry about advance later...
First, I mounted the nd points and condensers to my existing plate.  I guess this would be easier than swapping plates completely....first mistake?
In the picture below, I'm at the step where I have rotated the big nut to F 2/3, to set my 2/3 point gap, but as you can see, my 1/4 point is still open.
Notice my whole points plate was, and still is, rotated max counter clockwise...
Where to go from here guys?
TIA.
fly...

[MoMo]

First question,  is that a wire connected to 2/3 backing plate?

Start over by setting the entire backing plate and the 2/3 plate so both are in the middle of the adjustment range.  A couple Spark plugs out so there is not any resistance when you rotate the crank.  Rotate crank past TDC of 1/4 till the post on the spark advance mechanism lines up with the indicator on the crankcase.  Set gap between  .012 to .016 thousandths.  Rotate crank past TDC of 2/3 till post lines up with the mark on the crankcase and set the gap.

Buy a timing light to finish setting the firing spot and advance. (I bought the $40 version of the Equus off Ebay to replace my old MAC light and it works fine) With the light hooked up to either  1 or 4 rotate the backing plate when the motor is running till it fires at the F mark and falls within the two marks when revved over 3K,  switch timing lead to 2 or 3 and adjust that backing plate till it fires and advances correctly.


You can set the firing statically with a multimeter but there isn't much better than using the timing light.   


Something has to be set wrong for the 1/4 gap to not close so I started at the beginning.  It is the process that has been used by all the mechanics that I have worked with during the 14 years I worked in the industry back in the heyday...Larry

[goldarrow]

And make sure advancer is not 180 degree out

[dave500]

the more i see more points questions the more i like to try and push more electronic systems more,more or less,#$%*,do your self a favour,go electronic,they have more of a lot but a lot less adjusting,like nil once set,ive lost count of the points questions threads here,its obvisiously an issue,or problem?thats never been truley resovled,ever,is it in the FAQ?ditch the points losers!unless your a concours queen?

its always these same questions?

[MoMo]

the more i see more points questions the more i like to try and push more electronic systems more,more or less,#$%*,do your self a favour,go electronic,they have more of a lot but a lot less adjusting,like nil once set,ive lost count of the points questions threads here,its obvisiously an issue,or problem?thats never been truley resovled,ever,is it in the FAQ?ditch the points losers!unless your a concours queen?

its always these same questions?

But what if you're a trailer queen or maybe even a........................................................................................drag queen? What kind of ignition would one use then? ...Larry

[dave500]

a gay one,,like frigging around with points?over and again,trailer poofter bikes dont even have to run,they are too precious!fair dinkum,,how many points threads are there?man!you gotta have good ignition,and properly set up good condition points do that very well,im not doubting that,it just seems such a fiddle arse for some though that the #$%* is gone over and again,again,#$%* this,,,,,,,,,,,, im going for a beer!burrrrp,,thats better,#$%* this still though.

[flybox1]

First question,  is that a wire connected to 2/3 backing plate?

Start over by setting the entire backing plate and the 2/3 plate so both are in the middle of the adjustment range.  A couple Spark plugs out so there is not any resistance when you rotate the crank.  Rotate crank past TDC of 1/4 till the post on the spark advance mechanism lines up with the indicator on the crankcase.  Set gap between  .012 to .016 thousandths.  Rotate crank past TDC of 2/3 till post lines up with the mark on the crankcase and set the gap.

Thanks Larry, this thread was supposed to be deleted as its in the wrong section of the forum, but anyway, i appreciate your answer, and the above is what i did, my queen is back running 
And yes, the wire on 2/3 backing plate is the ground for my HM unit.
Out.

[MoMo]

Good and thanks for clariffying the wire( I like closure)...Larry