Topic: 76 CB550F - Oct 2021 - Rear tail light and rebuilding gauges

[RAFster122s]

Hope you documented everything well and put it in your folder/binder for this bike. It will pay dividends later if you need to troubleshoot anything.
Congrats on your success!!

[KennyRedman]

Hope you documented everything well and put it in your folder/binder for this bike. It will pay dividends later if you need to troubleshoot anything.
Congrats on your success!!

Thanks, I’m stoked that everything works!

I definitely documented everything and have a diagram of the new colors.

[KennyRedman]

The wiring is all finished and I put on the new Revival Cycles Vintage LED headlight. It’s pretty cool and I like the look.  Next up is to replace the throttle tube which was cracked and then get her back on the road. For the ready of the fall. Then I have some bigger projects I’d like to do over the next season or year- clean up the wheels, spokes, paint, and headers.

[KennyRedman]

I’ve decided to deviate a bit more from the stock look. I bought some new signals and a new taillight from DCC, cut a bent up rear fender about 5-6” and rolled it in. I like this look as I never really liked the huge back end.




Here’s how I did the rear signals. I’m going to put some heat shrink that covers the end of the wrap and the threads of the signals.  I need to clean up the rust on the grab bar before it gets too bad.





This week I’m going to put the signals up front along with the Emgo headlight bracket and new gaiters as the old ones were dry-rotted.

[RAFster122s]

Looks good, definitely want a super bright brake light...ensure with that small brake light that it lights up like the sun. Don't wanna get run-over.

[KennyRedman]

Looks good, definitely want a super bright brake light...ensure with that small brake light that it lights up like the sun. Don't wanna get run-over.

Agreed! It’s pretty bright- especially the brake light and it is easily as bright as the 350 taillight I tried first. I’ll plug the original in and do a comparison, because I’m actually curious if it’s close.

[KennyRedman]

I’m looking for the best option to update my brake lines. Since I replaced the handle bars with 400F bars, the upper line is way to long and it has a crack in the rubber.







The right side of the bar is pretty cramped, too. The MC is pretty much touching the tach.

I measured the upper line to the switch and there’s about nine inches from fitting to fitting. Do I need much slack here? 4into1 has a “short” kit where the upper is 13” but that seems too long.

https://4into1.com/short-stainless-steel-brake-line-kit-w-brake-pipe-clear-honda-cb350-360-400f/

https://4into1.com/short-stainless-steel-brake-line-kit-w-brake-pipe-clear-honda-cb450k-500-550-750/

[RAFster122s]

A set of inexpensive bar risers would elevate the MC providing clearance and take up a little bit of line length without messing up the ergonomics of the new bars. You would not lean as far forward, taking a little pressure off the wrists. Then measure your lines giving room for turns of course...

[RAFster122s]

Those bars look really narrow? What is their width?

[KennyRedman]

Those bars look really narrow? What is their width?

That could be a good idea- I do like them, but an inch or two might help. They are 28” end to end.

Here’s a pic of them with what I replaced:

[flatlander]

i also use 400f bars on my 550f, with no raisers and really like the position: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,134863.msg2142276.html#msg2142276

clutch cable: 22870-404-670 is the best length for these.

upper brake line: get one at 24cm length, measured centre of banjo to centre of banjo. i got some from hel: https://www.helperformance.com/
they are great quality, nice stainless fittings, and can be made any custom configuration. sorry can't give you a local supplier as i'm in europe but you can probably search for one online.

brake MC: it's indeed a very tight fit on the bars. you may need to remove the tach to put it in position then put the tach back in place. there's a little knob on the mount that creates a bit of distance between MC/brake lever mount and the throttle controls mount. file that off and things fit a tad more easily.

[KennyRedman]

i also use 400f bars on my 550f, with no raisers and really like the position: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,134863.msg2142276.html#msg2142276

clutch cable: 22870-404-670 is the best length for these.

upper brake line: get one at 24cm length, measured centre of banjo to centre of banjo. i got some from hel: https://www.helperformance.com/
they are great quality, nice stainless fittings, and can be made any custom configuration. sorry can't give you a local supplier as i'm in europe but you can probably search for one online.

brake MC: it's indeed a very tight fit on the bars. you may need to remove the tach to put it in position then put the tach back in place. there's a little knob on the mount that creates a bit of distance between MC/brake lever mount and the throttle controls mount. file that off and things fit a tad more easily.

Thanks for the link to your post and your measurements- it affirms my thoughts. It is a tight fit on the bars, but looking at the 400F, that’s how it’s set up. I have the headlight bucket and forks off currently, so making room shouldn’t be an issue.

[flatlander]

400f has smaller instruments, it's not the same. but it can fit on the 550 as well, only it's a really tight squeeze. be careful not to scratch the tach housing with the MC.

[KennyRedman]

400f has smaller instruments, it's not the same. but it can fit on the 550 as well, only it's a really tight squeeze. be careful not to scratch the tach housing with the MC.

Ah, right on. Thanks!

[Stev-o]

Here's another option for custom brake lines...

http://www.apexbrakes.com/custom.asp

[KennyRedman]

Here's another option for custom brake lines...

http://www.apexbrakes.com/custom.asp

Thanks, Steve. I think that’s what I’m going to do. How much slack do I really need on the top section, an inch or two?

[Stev-o]

Here's another option for custom brake lines...

http://www.apexbrakes.com/custom.asp

Thanks, Steve. I think that’s what I’m going to do. How much slack do I really need on the top section, an inch or two?

Yes, that would be fine.  I typically use a piece of cable to determine the overall length of the hose.

[KennyRedman]

Here's another option for custom brake lines...

http://www.apexbrakes.com/custom.asp

Thanks, Steve. I think that’s what I’m going to do. How much slack do I really need on the top section, an inch or two?

Yes, that would be fine.  I typically use a piece of cable to determine the overall length of the hose.

Good idea. When I take mine off, I’ll use that to measure it.

I spent way too much on these Joker anodized boot collars. Since I decided not to use my stock ears and zip ties didn’t work right, I resorted to getting these. They are made very well, fit perfectly on 35mm forks and hold up the top of the boots. I think there’d be a market for 3D printed ones. If I only had a printer I’d make all sorts.

[KennyRedman]

Got a new front brake caliper, pads, and the lower line installed, along with the fender put back on. I sanded down the rust in the inside of the fender and sprayed it with rust converter and some black spray paint to maybe help protect it. The new gaiters along with the Joker collars are in place and the new headlight brackets are cleaned up and put in too. I’m just waiting for my new top brake line and then I can get everything put back in place in front.

[Stev-o]

Looks good!

[Kelly E]

I can't remember where I got them( maybe CycleX ) but I used fork boots that are 35mm at the top because the Joker pieces were out of stock.

[KennyRedman]

Looks good!

Thanks Steve. As soon as I get the new top brake line I can get the whole front end put back together.

I can't remember where I got them( maybe CycleX ) but I used fork boots that are 35mm at the top because the Joker pieces were out of stock.

Those definitely work too. I like ‘em.

[KennyRedman]

I’m also in the process of getting some new wheels put on, so I’m transferring the axel and rotor. Decided to repaint the rotor while it was off. Stripped it, then primed and painted it. Not too bad.

When I put the rotor back on, do I have to use those three tongued washers, or can I just use loctite and/or spring washers?

[Stev-o]

Nothin' like a fresh coat of paint!   How deep are the grooves on the rotor? [if at all?]

I've done it both ways - reused the tongue washers and used lock washers, your choice.

[KennyRedman]

Nothin' like a fresh coat of paint!   How deep are the grooves on the rotor? [if at all?]

I've done it both ways - reused the tongue washers and used lock washers, your choice.

Right on. I love painting parts- it’s so satisfying to see a dingy piece come back to life. I’ll have to get a nice spray setup sometime but for now I’m just using rattle cans.

The rotor looks worse than it is- it’s actually fairly smooth. I measured it with my calipers and it’s 7.2mm thick.