Author Topic: CB750 K1 project (Read 50985 times)

Dunk · « **Reply #50 on:** September 19, 2013, 06:42:58 PM »

I pulled the cap, petcock and emblems off the tank. Emblems were attached with adhesive tape. One side the bracket for the clips looks good the other side the forward hole si good and the back is smooth, presumably bondo over it. I'll find out exactly what's going on once I get it stripped. There is a small amount of rust on the bottom inside the tank. I wouldn't really sweat running it as-is but is there anything I can put in there to dissolve the rust and at loeast get any looser parts out? Doesn't look major or at risk of rust through.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #51 on:** September 20, 2013, 05:49:36 AM »

G'Day Mate, get some phosphoric acid to remove any rust in the tank, it's fairly harmless and I use it for all my rust removal work. Those repop headlight brackets look good, out of interest, what size are the screw holes for the reflectors? K0/K1 should be 5mm, K2 and later are 6mm. Cheers, Terry.

Dunk · « **Reply #52 on:** September 27, 2013, 12:13:25 PM »

Finally got a little time to work on the bike. Investigated the right side emblem attaching point where there was bondo. Looks like a big dent that was filled. I don't want to run this tank as is, I'd prefer proper clips to attach emblems and no big dent repairs. I remembered I had a spare tank, but unfortunately it is not correct for this bike. No idea what it is from. I'll post a picture, maybe it's worth something and can help offset the cost of a better condition tank for the K1.

All the rear turn signal bracket bushings and such came in so I put those brackets on to securely attach the rear fender. New rectifier came in frmo Oregeon Motorcycle Parts. The plug is different with a clip that doesn't seem to want to go through the bracket. Original harness didn't have this, so if I can't get it on with the clip I'll just snap it off and try that way.

Life is busy, progress is slow.

Dunk · « **Reply #53 on:** September 27, 2013, 12:52:13 PM »

Slim pickings on eBay for tanks in decent condition. What are the differences between K1 tanks and other years? It looks like '69-'71 is the same with the exception of the early wrinkle tanks being $$$. Beyond that I see '72 and up tanks that look like my K1 tank and others that do not. Confused so hopefully someone can explain the differences.

I'm tempted to just buy a Yamiya body set and call it a day! Unfortunately they don't have Valley Green Metallic in stock or I might have pulled the trigger. As I understand it all the Yamiya stuff is reproduction? How good is it? By comments here and given the price I would assume they're top notch? Anyone bought a tank or body set from them? Or any other parts?

Tews19 · « **Reply #54 on:** September 27, 2013, 02:33:56 PM »

If you are sitting on your bike, the petcock is on your right... Later version is on the left....

Dunk · « **Reply #55 on:** October 04, 2013, 01:57:04 PM »

I got the rear wheel laced up with new Buchanon spokes. Awaiting truing stand to true it, put rubber on, and balance it. Did I do this right? Laced differently than the 16" rim came off this hub but same as the rim was laced on the hub with the trashed threads. In the mean time I'll disassemble the front, polish the hub, and reassemble with new spokes. This is my first time lacing or truing wheels.

Got a NOS tail light bracket. It is different than the one that was on the bike. Bag was previously opened and stapled shut. Is this in fact the correct bracket for a K1? It is somewhat smaller/slimmer than the one that was on the bike. 84701-300-020XW

Tews19 · « **Reply #56 on:** October 04, 2013, 02:15:03 PM »

K1 has a smaller unit then the 72 and up...

Dunk · « **Reply #57 on:** October 04, 2013, 02:43:26 PM »

Yes I know it's smaller, though the bracket that came on this bike is the same as the one on my wrecked K1 and both had the smaller light, smaller than K2 and up. Don't have any K2 and up brackets to compare. From a google search I'm wondering if this bracket is for a foreign market bike. The ears for mounting the license plate are slightly wider. It's new and it looks good, so I guess I'll use it but I'd like to know for sure if it's correct or not to satisfy my curiosity.

Tews19 · « **Reply #58 on:** October 04, 2013, 02:52:45 PM »

There you go
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2

Dunk · « **Reply #59 on:** October 04, 2013, 03:55:59 PM »

The rubber mounting piece came in today for the tail light bracket. I'd like to commend the great service of Clauss Studios. The messed up and sent me the wrong part, an air box rubber piece for a 500 or 550. I emailed them and got a response immediately apologizing and they shipped the correct part overnight and said to just keep the other part they sent. I won't hesitate to order any other parts from them. They seem to specialize in hard to find rubber parts for classic bikes. It's a great reproduction with nice soft and strong feeling rubber. I had to clean out a very thin film of rubber from the bolt holes but that only took a few seconds with a pick. http://www.claussstudios.com

So I mounted the new bracket along with my original tail light and backing plate. I may have to find a new backing plate for the tail light as it has some light rust and pitting. The lens too as it has some scratches. That's an easy swap at any point though.

The rear brake linkage... Does it go in front of the swingarm like this? Tough to get it on there with the spring as the arm hit the swingarm. Maybe I should have done this before putting the swingarm in.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #60 on:** October 04, 2013, 05:40:39 PM »

G'Day Mate, your wheel is looking great, and as you've assumed, your tail light bracket is more than likely one for another market, there were several different brackets and tail lights used, depending on the laws of the country that the bikes were exported to.

This might be too late, but I just received this ad for replica K0/K1 replica rear shocks from Z1 Parts Inc. No idea what the quality is like, but for $285, they're reasonably priced. Cheers, Terry.

http://www.z1parts.net/product/cb750-sandcast-shocks

Kevin D · « **Reply #61 on:** October 05, 2013, 07:01:35 PM »

Quote

The rear brake linkage... Does it go in front of the swingarm like this? Tough to get it on there with the spring as the arm hit the swingarm. Maybe I should have done this before putting the swingarm in.

Thats the right way, in front of the swingarm.

Dunk · « **Reply #62 on:** October 07, 2013, 05:45:52 PM »

Stand came in today. I got the wheel pretty close using this. Waiting on magnetic base dial indicator later this week and I'll get it dialed in. Also at lower left you can see the front hub polished and ready to be laced.

Removed the front tire and broke down the wheel. Actually had to cut the tire off as I couldn't get it. It was old, cracked, crunchy, and otherwise very stiff. Not worth fighting so I just cut it after a brief struggle. Disappointed to find the inside of the front rim quite rusty. Shame as the chrome is pretty good. Didn't feel like dealing with it so just ordered a new DID rim, the rear is a newer DID stamped on side anyhow so not winning any concours shows with stamped rims. This may be safe after cleanup and inspection so I'll just hang on to it in case I get around to restoring the K1 I wrecked on some day.

I was debating on ordering repop cush drive rubbers or reusing mine. Figured I'd save a few bucks and use what I have as they're not all cracked and I don't recall them being loose. Soaked and scrubbed in soapy water to get the brake dust and crud off them and will use the best of the two sets I have.

Not much progress otherwise, waiting on parts and doing the bits I can while I wait. A few small parts still need sand blast and paint. At some point while I'm waiting I need to bite the bullet and do the gauges. Never gone thorugh a set before so I've been avoiding it.

cheftuskey121 · « **Reply #63 on:** October 07, 2013, 07:05:05 PM »

looking good man! good call on truing your own wheels. I did not want to do it at first but when a local shop wanted $275 to true both wheels I bought an $80 stand and did it myself. so glad I did. also I would suggest using your rubbers as long as they aren't completely worn out (would defeat the purpose). I made the bozo move of ripping mine out when I broke down my rear wheel and I HAD to buy new rubbers. the only issue is that brand new they are SO tight I couldn't get the sprocket hub cover on all the way flush. the new cush rubbers were just too tight. it took days of pounding, standing, stomping etc to get it witihin 2mm of flush. finally after 5000 miles and a rear tire change all is well.

maybe it didn't have to be so difficult but if you can use the old ones, you may say a headache....not to mention at least $100. keep up the good work!

Dunk · « **Reply #64 on:** October 08, 2013, 06:12:13 AM »

Yeah, not many places don't even lace or true spoke wheels and those that do are pricey. I figure it's not rocket science, just a bit tedious. Probably won't be the alst time I need to dot his so it's worthwhile to get the tools and learn. Is there any trick to locating the wheel left/right/center on the hub? I believe these are just centered on the hub. Will the rim align to center so long as I've evenly tightened spokes when lacing and then just true the vertical and sideways wobble? Or do I need to measure and make sure it's centered as I true it?

I recall it taking a little tugging to get the drive flange off. So long as the rubbers are snug and it takes a little effort to get the flange back on I'll use what I have.

Dunk · « **Reply #65 on:** October 09, 2013, 05:31:38 PM »

What runout do you guys consider acceptable when truing wheels? I see 1mm mentioned a lot as Honda spec, which is .040". What do you guys shoot for?

I got my magnetic base for the dial indicator and had the rim radially at .022" just using the pointer stick and my eyeball. With the dial I've got it down to .010". I'm ignoring the weld and a small area directly next to it. Have not worked on lateral runout yet, but I think .010" is acceptable so if I can't get it any better I'll start on that.

Dunk · « **Reply #66 on:** October 09, 2013, 05:55:50 PM »

Got radial down to .008". Lateral is looking like about .016" though I'm having a minor problem of the rod/axle the wheel is spinning on walking a thousandth or two to one side after a couple revolutions. Maybe I don't have the stand perfectly level. .016" should be within Honda spec if they call for .040" max, but I'll see how much better I can get it.

Dunk · « **Reply #67 on:** October 11, 2013, 11:00:38 AM »

Got something in the mail today...

Tews19 · « **Reply #68 on:** October 11, 2013, 11:47:31 AM »

Holy #$%*.... is that yamiya? Mind if I ask the cost?

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #69 on:** October 11, 2013, 04:50:45 PM »

My goodness! That looks exceptional!

cheftuskey121 · « **Reply #70 on:** October 11, 2013, 08:51:09 PM »

well well well. I'm pretty sure you have everyone's attention now sir.......BEAUTIFUL

Dream750 · « **Reply #71 on:** October 12, 2013, 06:56:43 AM »

Cadunkle, somehow I missed your project thread which is coming along very nice. Your attention to detail and workmanship is impressive.

The tail light bracket: 84701-300-020XW is used on 750 K1 French and Japanese models.

84701-300-672XW is used on the 750 K1 USA and Australian models. (your old bracket is correct)

Your new paint looks like like the rarely seen Polynesian blue metallic. Fabulous K1 color and excellent choice!

Dunk · « **Reply #72 on:** October 12, 2013, 11:50:43 AM »

Yes, Yamiya body set in polynesion blue metallic. The parts really look great. I got the fork ears on. These were a bear to get the chrome collar that goes above the boots on there. I got them on with only some minor damage to the paint in the area hidden by the boot and collar. The left side ear was too tight going over the lower tree. I had to pry that open slightly more than it was and it was still a tight fit. Some minor damage to paint again in an area unseen.

I'm concerned that the rubber piece under the fork ear reflectors doesn't fit as nicely as I believe it should. It's almsot like it's made for a smaller diameter fork ear. Honda PN 33744-089-670 which I ordered from Yamiya and they advertise as a K0 K1 front reflector base. It may be that they just take a little time to settle in and conform to the fork ears?

The fork boots were a paint to get on. I believe I have them the correct way, maybe someone can confirm. They are this way on my wrecked K1 and look to be this way from waht I can make out of pictures online.

I guess the taillight bracket is for a foreign market. It looks good and I'll use it for now though I will keep my eyes open for a NOS or good used USA bracket, or eventually have mine rechromed.

Dunk · « **Reply #73 on:** October 12, 2013, 04:34:54 PM »

Bouncing around a bit between different things. Managed to puncture a tube mounting the rear tire but fortunately had another and didn't screw that one up. It has been a while since I've mounted tube tires, since when I used to have several dirt bikes years ago.

Trying to put the grab handle on the bike and not quite sure how it goes. Haven't found any diagrams that entirely show it. Diagram at front where it attached to the shock mount looks like it uses the acorn nut and not washer, then the handle and the shock on the stud. When I attach like this the rear of the handle is positioned fairly far away from the rear turn signal/rear fender mount bolt. So I try putting handle on with rear fender bolt, handle, washer, then frame then fender. Hardly any threads go into the fender to secure it so either the bolt seems too short or the thick chrome washer is not used. Diagram seems to show the washer as used on both sides. Rear fender bolts and washers are NOS Honda from somewhere off a parts fiche. Grab handle is NOS.

Not sure the correct way but I'd guess front of handle is just acorn nut, handle, shock. I'd guess rear would be similar with just bolt, handle, through frame and into rear fender. Maybe someone can clarify how this is supposed to go. Perhaps the slight bend in the handle is okay to just use the acorn nut and fender bolt to pull it tight.

Dunk · « **Reply #74 on:** October 12, 2013, 07:31:15 PM »

Bouncing around more the rest of the day. Don't feel like I've got a lot done today. Got the tire balanced. Adjusted triple tree bearings and tightened top tree. Replaced top tree center washer and nut with new. Put my best cush drive rubbers in the rear hub. Balanced the rear tire and installed it. Got rear brake arm and spring installed with new spring. Disassembled front caliper and preliminary cleaning. Will need a new piston as this has two small pits in it. I've run worse before but I think this bike should get a new one. Misc. other stuff. Slow and steady.

Front rim shipped today so I hope to have that this week so I can lace, true, tire, balance, etc.

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Author Topic: CB750 K1 project (Read 50985 times)