Author Topic: CL350 Street Tracker / Cafe build (Read 22364 times)

grcamna2 · « **Reply #75 on:** April 30, 2014, 05:51:40 AM »

Mad S,
Did you make sure to re-install that rubber ball thingy that goes into a hole in the cases near the crankshaft ? it helps maintain oil pressure.

madScientist · « **Reply #76 on:** April 30, 2014, 06:30:51 AM »

GR -- the little rubber dealiebob that is in the journal on the right side of the picture (covered by the crank)? If so then yes, it's still in there.

Calj -- Thanks! I'll send him a message and see what he's got.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #77 on:** April 30, 2014, 07:53:09 AM »

Good

madScientist · « **Reply #78 on:** May 05, 2014, 08:30:31 AM »

Made a little more progress (sorry no pictures for now). The lower half of the engine is largely back together. The clutch cover is on and I have the stator side assembled however I'm waiting on more stainless bolts to stick it together. My wife came over and looked at the engine and said "You know what would look rad...satin black accents to break up the aluminum color..." So I painted the oil filter cover, stator cover, starter, and dipstick satin black...I agree with her. The jugs and head will also be satin.

I'm still waiting on the machine shop to finish working on the cylinder and head. I'm going to be ordering a KA cam chain slider from Bore-Tech. I will also be purchasing a new guide since the old one's real chewed up. Those orders will wait until I get in to the head so I can purchase everything in one order. I'm probably going to put new valves, springs, etc in the head for a complete rebuild. I'm debating doing a little intake and exhaust porting while I'm at it.

I'm trying to seek out a manual cam chain tensioner (piece outside the jugs) like what I have on my F but am having no luck. Therefore I'll likely have to use the old one.

I am in a holding pattern on the frame. I haven't received the bushings for the swingarm yet. I also tried getting the forks apart and am being met with strong resistance. I've got the gator, springs, and misc seals out. I pulled the snap ring but I cannot get the tube to come clear of the leg. If anyone has insight on what I'm doing wrong that would be super. I have new seals coming but if I cant get it apart in the first place that'll really put a damper on things...no pun intended.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #79 on:** May 05, 2014, 10:04:25 AM »

MadS,
Do you think you'll let your wife keep this 350 ?

madScientist · « **Reply #80 on:** May 05, 2014, 11:54:52 AM »

Calj -- I removed a phillips screw from the bottom of the leg which I had assumed to be the damper bolt (the allen you referenced...it was an allen on the F anyway). I'll shine a flashlight up in there and see if there's another bolt that I might be missing on the inside of the leg.

GR -- I dont know...I might :-P However if we decide to keep it I'd consider camming it and put in the hi-comp pistons...just for some added fun factor :-P...well as much fun as a 350 can be.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #81 on:** May 05, 2014, 12:08:54 PM »

Quote from: madScientist on May 05, 2014, 11:54:52 AM

Calj -- I removed a phillips screw from the bottom of the leg which I had assumed to be the damper bolt (the allen you referenced...it was an allen on the F anyway). I'll shine a flashlight up in there and see if there's another bolt that I might be missing on the inside of the leg.

GR -- I dont know...I might :-P However if we decide to keep it I'd consider camming it and put in the hi-comp pistons...just for some added fun factor :-P...well as much fun as a 350 can be.

I'd like to hear what your plan is on porting the head

madScientist · « **Reply #82 on:** May 05, 2014, 12:17:46 PM »

I'll keep the populous in the loop for sure. I was going to drop a line to Rieck and see if he has any input on porting this head. I'm assuming this head is like all the Honda heads where a little "massaging" can lead to fairly decent returns.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #83 on:** May 05, 2014, 12:40:57 PM »

Chase,I've been asking him a bit about some performance work w/ my plan being to use the stock #HM344 CB350K4 exhaust mufflers as 'keepers' for my small,mild project.
I want to install some cast pistons around 66-67mm from another Japanese make/model w/ a 15mm wrist pin and having similar measurements so I can possibly(and that's a BIG "possibly") just overbore my cylinders and fit the pistons w/o much custom machine work.I'd like to keep it 'streetable'

w/ about 10-10.25:1 compression ratio max. I think my stock mufflers can handle that if I turn on the power 'progressively'

w/ a very mild camshaft and stock carbs. & filters.I just need to keep doing more research on that piston swap.I have a stock OE piston here to measure and match specs. I'm hoping they'll stop putting 'E' junk in the pump fuel... but I'm not going to hold my breath

I'm not trying to achieve much added power..,but a little more sure won't hurt.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #84 on:** May 05, 2014, 01:13:02 PM »

Quote from: madScientist on May 05, 2014, 12:17:46 PM

I'll keep the populous in the loop for sure. I was going to drop a line to Rieck and see if he has any input on porting this head. I'm assuming this head is like all the Honda heads where a little "massaging" can lead to fairly decent returns.

I've heard you can nearly double the HP with porting and boring, but I think taking it to that extreme might compromise durability. AND, we are talking about small numbers overall.

madScientist · « **Reply #85 on:** May 06, 2014, 07:36:57 PM »

I dropped a line to 2StrokeTRush who's going to run down and check for me on Saturday. Real nice dude! I got a line on another locally but the guy wants $125 which I think is pushing it. I'll keep that on the back burner though.

Had a dumb moment with the forks this evening. I kept working on them trying to get the darn things apart. I was sure I had the bolts out and everything else removed. So in a fit of frustration I just started working them really hard...we're talking REAL hard...i was pissed. Wouldn't you know it *POP* they came apart! I guess I was just being too gentle.

I more or less have finished assembling the bottom end. I was going to hold off on the pictures to show the completed engine but what the hell, i'll share some. I'm not happy with the stator cover painting. I'm going to touch up the silver and paint the honda and ring satin black. All in all I think it turned out pretty good. I also need to put the neutral switch in. Still no word from the machine shop other than "it should be done this week".

In other news...i ordered some bronze swingarm bushings from ebay since the ones I ordered from the factory are taking an extra special long time to ship. I should be rockin' and rollin' in the chassis department this weekend. With any luck...and some beer...it might be a roller this weekend.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #86 on:** May 06, 2014, 08:09:59 PM »

Looks nice !

madScientist · « **Reply #87 on:** May 27, 2014, 10:51:31 AM »

It's been awhile but I finally got some garage time in this weekend. I got the fork legs, swingarm, and other bits painted up. Bought new bushings for the swingarm as well as caps and seals. Forks have new seals and I threw some paint on the upper part of the tubes. I plan on using the stock ears so I didn't mind so much about how it looked. It's mostly to prevent rusting.

Question; how the heck do you install the fork gators onto the top part of the legs? That is, without chewing the crap out of the paint?

The rims cleaned up nicely however the front one has a ding on the edge of it. I'm going to try and straighten it out but I fear I might have to grab a new rim. The rear axle also looks to be missing a spacer :-/. I might just make one up although they look plentiful on ebay. There is a guy selling a parts bike locally but I dont want to have one sitting around once I finish this one. That and I have nowhere to put it...

I'm trying really hard to like the CL tank. TRush said the cheapest tank Baltimore had was $130 which is out of my range. There's one locally for $125 but I would prefer to save that money. So I think I'm going to see if I can get to liking the CL tank.

Staring at the frame I think I want to either relocate or remove the rear arch. I'm designing how I want the tail to go and I think that arch is going to get in the way of my vision. I guess that's the nice thing about paint is that I can touch it up :-D

The head is getting the new valves and guides installed this week. After that I should be good for top end assembly of the engine. I have a KA cam chain slipper and a new chain guide. With any luck the engine should be in it this next weekend. Here are some shots of the bike. It's "slapped" together for now. going to have to take down a lot of that as I go along but that's fine.

w/o tank
IMG]http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b545/chaser012001/CL350/20140526_170619_zpsu9uqxpfh.jpg[/IMG]
w/ tank

engine for now...no head but I set the cover on top to seal up the cylinders

grcamna2 · « **Reply #88 on:** May 27, 2014, 12:49:16 PM »

Hi Chase,
The fork gaiters on the CL350 wrap around the bottom edge of the headlight mounts/ears,they kind of 'hook' onto them,it's easier w/ fresh rubber gaiters though

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #89 on:** May 27, 2014, 04:41:04 PM »

Like the look of the motor.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #90 on:** May 27, 2014, 07:44:30 PM »

Quote from: calj737 on May 27, 2014, 05:01:52 PM

What he said about the gaiters. A shot of some liquid lube helps get them on/over. That, and plenty of swearing and beer.

Re:tank- you might consider adjusting the mounting points in the front of the neck to lower the bottom line of the tank to more "parallel" with the ground. And/or adjust the rear mount , whichever is easiest.

The 'liquid lube' I prefer is Budweiser

madScientist · « **Reply #91 on:** May 28, 2014, 05:32:45 AM »

So to get the bottom of the gators down over the legs I need to get them good and slick...then buy a 12-er...and have at it :-D. I'll give that a go this weekend with a fresh supply of Coors Light and Jack Daniels.

I have kicked around the possibility of moving the mounts on the tank up a little to fix that up tick the tank has. What still bugs me is the front of the tank...the way it kind of tappers up instead of coming to a demarcation point and then moving up.

In other news...dropped a line to Pamco Pete to see if he might have a twin ignition. I really like the one I have in my 750. In looking at the website he used to have them but they seem to be unavailable currently. I'm also going to splurge on the VM30's. My budget is kind of knackered up anyway so might as well go with the good stuff! I am also going to put in an order for CB350 rear sets from Dime City Cycle. Also kicking around ordering the axle spacers from ebay versus making them.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #92 on:** May 28, 2014, 06:16:26 AM »

Chase,
I found the difficult part of those gaiters was hooking them to the bottom of the fork ears and then hoping they'd stay put ! When the rubber gets hard they don't stretch or stay put as well;beer will help.
I think I have a set of rear axle spacers(the ones outside the hub..not between the the bearings inside)I can hunt for;get back to me if you're interested.

madScientist · « **Reply #93 on:** May 28, 2014, 06:26:47 AM »

Message sent :-D

Maybe I'll look into getting some new ones for pliability's sake. I might try heating them up a little to loosen them up and see if they are a little easier to manage.

I'll try the tape trick and see what it looks like.

The other thing I'm kicking around is making add on's to the front of the tank to level it out without actually cutting up the tank. I might be able to shape up some sheet steel to fix it up. I'll keep that as a last effort though. I really hate the idea of modifying a usable tank.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #94 on:** May 28, 2014, 09:41:57 AM »

The rubber gaiters,if they're still in good cond. (or any old rubber parts)can be soaked in a 50/50 solution of Wintergreen oil(massage therapy supply places or Amazon,but make sure it's the Real Wintergreen oil because it works better than the imitation stuff)and water and then left to heat a little in an old pot on the stove at about 175 degrees for about a half hour;the old 'cook'em in Wintergreen oil' trick.

The thicker the rubber is the longer you can give'em more heat,but thin rubber like the gaiters no longer than a 1/2 hr.

madScientist · « **Reply #95 on:** July 02, 2014, 07:47:16 PM »

After a short hiatus I'm back to the 350. I've been focusing on motor work trying to get the engine buttoned up and back in the bike so I can build the cowl and check fitment.

The engine is fighting me tooth and nail. After a short scare of losing a dowel which i subsequently found, I put the top end together. The jugs set down on the pistons fine. WAY easier than doing a 4 cylinder...I double and triple checked the cam chain routing through the KA tensioner. Set the head down and realized I couldn't get the cam gear situated in the cam chain with the head. So i pulled the head, put the gear into the chain, put the head back on. I started feeding the cam through which was an exercise in frustration but I finally got it through only to find the dowel at this point. So out it came and went through the exercise again. Mind you before feeding the gear I matched the "L" timing mark straight up when the "LT" mark on the stator was at the mark. Bolted the cam in, mounted up the rockers.

This is where I hit trouble. When putting the tach and points cover on there is absolutely 0 play in the cam. To the point where I can get one but not the other on there. The KA tensioner is tight against the jug wall and the cam chain is alarmingly tight. To make matters worse apparently the cam is 180 degrees out. Which doesn't matter cause i want to take the whole lot back apart and do it again. My suspicion is that the KA doesn't have enough clearance in the jug wall to full slacken the chain. Alternatively the issue could be the chain I was sold is too small / the wrong one.

Either way it'll get run to ground. After-all there are 2 ways to do a thing...the right way and again.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #96 on:** July 02, 2014, 08:31:09 PM »

I never installed a KA but from what I've been told,I think that it needs a good amount of casting removal work inside the cylinder block to let it move freely

madScientist · « **Reply #97 on:** July 03, 2014, 05:12:59 AM »

I shaved some of the rivets off but I guess I didn't get enough off. Oh well...i kind of wanted to change the color of the jugs and cylinder head anyhow. At current the jugs are satin black and the rest is silver. I think i want the jugs silver, head satin black, and everything up silver. I think the black cylinders are out of place.

Mr Freeze · « **Reply #98 on:** July 03, 2014, 07:22:11 AM »

This is off topic, but I see you have the Cycle 4-2-1 exhaust on your F bike. How are you liking it? Did you add any sort of strap to the muffler to attach it to the frame in the back?

Quote from: madScientist on April 29, 2014, 09:16:13 AM

Thanks. She's a great pup although she's gettin' old.

I dont have pictures of a seat yet as I haven't made it up. I'm going to be making a seat / cowl out of fiberglass similar to what I have on my F. I really like how it looks. The trick will be getting it to look right with the tank. The tank has a "bobbed" look to it which i dislike. I was going to put a CB tank on it as I think those are more "leaned forward". I will not be modifying my current tank as it's straight and fairly clean.

Similar to this:
[/URL]

madScientist · « **Reply #99 on:** July 04, 2014, 08:23:17 AM »

No worries at all. I like it a lot. It sounds great! Nice and throaty at idle and the lower RPM's and then screams when i hit about 8k and higher.

There's no strap holding the rear of the pipe in place as the whole thing is pretty rigid. Plus, no joke, it weighs like 3lbs so there's very little strain. I've had no issues with it hanging only from the exhaust flanges.

The wife got me a gopro for my birthday. I plan on taking some video on the bike that will hopefully have some good audio. Stay tuned to the 750F thread in my signature for that.

News:

Author Topic: CL350 Street Tracker / Cafe build (Read 22364 times)