Topic: Should I make this trade?

[THE BIG SITT]

The one semi good piece of advice I can give you - any time you see an emgo pod filter know that your seller doesn't know the difference between good parts and a good deal (emgo filters are neither). I don't mean to be so judgmental on one part but those are usually a sign that whomever put them on is unabashedly cheap and didn't look at the part before he installed it. If he says it is a performance upgrade you can add not knowing his ass from his elbow to the list. Its a nice clear big red flag.

THAT'S what I forgot to mention! He tried telling me those pods cost $70... A PIECE! In my head I'm thinking "$280 so that you can never get the carbs perfect?"

That is alot of good information to have. I like how you say "Final Thought" then go on to double what you had already written 

[Tews19]

cb750s are naturally wide bikes. What makes it easier stock is that the seat taipers as it rises so it conforms to meet your groin. If you just cut the foam in half and throw a cover over it it is going to feel flat and wide.

Here is the advice I give newbie to old bikes in real life. Rather than take a shotgun approach to old bikes and just see what's cool and for sale - pick a few models you really like and actively seek them out. be patient and look at a lot of bikes - you'll know the right deal when you are in the middle of it. I started riding these bikes when they were just 15-20 year old used bikes nobody wanted and therefore cheap. Now they are 35-40 year old bikes and have a lot more issues and good ones cost a decent amount. So it pays to do your research in this regard so you know what the issues are, whether they have been addressed, and whether quality parts have been used. The cb750 is an excellent commuter bike, I have owned mine since the mid 90's, put a ton of miles on it, and used it as my daily commuter. But i got it in really nice condition and always kept it that way. There are deals to be had out there, but you just might have to put some leg work in.

The one semi good piece of advice I can give you - any time you see an emgo pod filter know that your seller doesn't know the difference between good parts and a good deal (emgo filters are neither). I don't mean to be so judgmental on one part but those are usually a sign that whomever put them on is unabashedly cheap and didn't look at the part before he installed it. If he says it is a performance upgrade you can add not knowing his ass from his elbow to the list. Its a nice clear big red flag.

Final thought - vintage performance bikes are kind of personal to the owner. so if you are buying someone else's hot rod know that change is inevitable. You just want a good foundation. In this rush to be "cafe cool" people forgot or didn't realize there should be a good solid performing motorcycle underneath. The modifications should make sense to you from a functional standpoint not just aesthetic. Some other red flags are:

- Knee dents on a stock tank: you can lose up to a gallon of fuel capacity and adds weight - all for "racer style", blegh. Serves no functional purpose and tries to hard to make an old bike look older. The exception is if the tank capacity has been increased to 5 gallons or larger because you need that space to clear your legs.

- Fixed clubman bars with stock pegs: clubman bars were designed for small european and british twins in the 50's, not big fat japanes 4 cyl leg burners. as such 90% of the fixed ones out there are a poor fit and the ones that aren't cost real money. a good sign a clubman bar is a poor fit is if the master cylinder is turned in an uncomfortable wrist breaking angle to clear the gauges. Also look for clubman rash - spots where the bar hits the tank (esp a problem on the F bikes). if you see that bar with a set of stock pegs know that whomever installed them doesn't understand ergonomics. That position forces you to bend your back into an arch as the ass to seat position tries to hold your body upright while you bend forward to reach the bars. I personally call this the crapping in the woods riding position because without the bike that's what it looks like you are doing.

- open pipes: If loud pipes saved lives, imagine what training and proper gear would do. People think motorcycles should be as loud as possible. However if you are a long time rider you know that volume leads to rider fatigue and also being treated like an arsehole by everyone around you. A little music is fine, a 4" open meg is just obnoxious and crude.

- changed master cylinders: if you see a new master on old calipers be wary. 1) the person probably can't rebuild the master so they just bought a new one off ebay, 2) they probably didn't understand what those little cast numbers mean underneat, 3) you might not have a front brake light switch. If you see one, check that the piston is the same size as stock (or appropriate size if upgraded to dual disc) by reading the cast numbers on the underside. Also check for a brake switch. If it has both those things take comfort in the fact the seller/builder was using his head. If not - be very cautious a the bike may have spongy or wooden brakes.

I think this is great advice!

I would pass.

[Geeto67]

any emgo pod filter should cost no more than $10 per filter (usual internet price is $7.99 plus shipping).

The reason why they are so bad is 1) the filter medium is pretty terrible and not replaceable, 2) if you look inside there is a rubber land that acts as a restriction. So it chokes down the intake flow of the bike costing you hp (on the cb I ran on a dyno in 99 it was 2hp across the board.

[Bankerdanny]

If the 750 felt a bit wide to you, then you should look for a 550. Still plenty of power (I'm 6-4 225 and had no issues keeping up with highway traffic here in Chicago), but smaller all around.

If you happen to find a cafe'd bike you like, just be wary of pods and make sure you can do a thorough test ride.

Lots of members use them and are very happy. But if you spend some time here you will see at least one post a week from someone who can't get the fueling right on their bike and 99% either replaced the stock airbox with pods, or bought somebody elses conversion that came with pods installed.

[THE BIG SITT]

If the 750 felt a bit wide to you, then you should look for a 550. Still plenty of power (I'm 6-4 225 and had no issues keeping up with highway traffic here in Chicago), but smaller all around.

I'm leery of the 550. My 250 has no trouble cruising along at 60-70MPH. But it has to be wrung all the way to 7k-8kRPMs to do so. It makes for a loud and buzzy commute. Wouldn't the 550 be the same sort of thing?

Example, the two bolts in front of the seat that keep the tank on were missing.

There are no "bolts" that hold the tank on. There are two rubbers up front and one rubber bushing/strap under the rear of the tank to keep it in place. With the seat mounted the tank is captured in place.

The tank seemed to wiggle significantly when the seat was down. When asked, he said he must have forgotten the two bolts back there, and even tried to point out where they would go. If he was wrong... well thats even more reason to make me happy I passed.

[Geeto67]

Even the 750 buzzes along at highway speed at 4-5K. If you really want to lope along in top gear at lower RPMS maybe you should look at a twin like a ducati or moto guzzi. Sure they cost more and require more attention but in top gear you can shuffle along at lower RPMS.

[THE BIG SITT]

Even the 750 buzzes along at highway speed at 4-5K. If you really want to lope along in top gear at lower RPMS maybe you should look at a twin like a ducati or moto guzzi. Sure they cost more and require more attention but in top gear you can shuffle along at lower RPMS.

Isn't there still quite a bit more power left at that speed? On my 250, it really starts to slow down once you hit about 60 or so. I've had it to 105 indicated (probably about 95) and the thing took about a mile of full throttle and full tuck to get from 60-95.

[Geeto67]

plenty of power - bike has power up till redline (about 8-9K). you were concerned about a buzzy ride from turning excessive rpms on the highway. Most people's cars are chruning 2-3k rpms on the highway so 5k feels like a lot to most.

[750K]

Yeah the 750 is no slouch, if you're no afraid of hitting the red line in most gears it gets up to speed quick. They like the higher revs, and once you get used to riding like so you'll want to be in the higher rpm most times.

[jude0007]

I didn't realize emgo pod filters were so bad.  Yes I'm newer and realize they're a knock off of K&N but still.  That bad?

[Tews19]

God the 550 gets to the power band around 7-9 k.... That bike loves to run at that high of rpm... I can do 90 mph all day on my 550's..... I also have a 750... 750 is a beast for power in comparison of HP/torque but the 550 is no slouch... Handles like a dream... Great ride overall.... Click the link I have in my signature.... You can see my 550 build I am currently doing....

You can also do some research to see that the 550 when modded can have the same HP as a stock 750.. At times even more at the wheel if properly done.

[Geeto67]

I didn't realize emgo pod filters were so bad.  Yes I'm newer and realize they're a knock off of K&N but still.  That bad?

know why they are called emgo? because em-go in the trash (say it out loud it's kinda funny).

They are a $8 part. how good did you think they would be? Everything else that does it's job runs $20-$100 so...$8 and you though you were getting something? yes they are dried turds and a horrible way to waste your money. But don't take my word for it - take your measuring calipers and measure the inside diameter of your carb inlets (where the filter attaches), then take your calipers and measure the inside hole of the filter at the land. notice the difference? That land not only chokes down the motor but on CV carbs (like honda twins) it can block the vacuum port and the slide won't lift.

now take your stock airbox rubbers out and look at them. Notice the Velocity stack shape? notice that your emgo pods have all the aerodynamics of cutting a hole in a board? you tell me what works better.

[Geeto67]

want pictures? here:

http://www.caferacer.net/forum/technical/19639-pod-filter-thread-geeto.html

[jude0007]

Em Go in da trash.....

Ha, yes that's funny.  They won't be going in the trash, they'll be going on ebay for someone else to deal with.

I appreciate the education.  What would you recommend running then besides stock air filter? K&N? Uni filters? Thanks.

[Geeto67]

why put it on ebay and screw someone else? Find a dark corner of your shop, throw them in there and once in a while look at them to remind you to do your homework next time.

What do I recommend? If your bike is bone stock (stock carbs, stock head, stock pipe) NOTHING will work better than the stock airbox for part throttle and midrange. Depending on the model you can get K&N replacements for the stock airbox (I have one in my cb750). I like K&N filters a lot because if you take care of them they will last. The velocity stack shape inside is not "ideal" but it is a lot better than emgos. I love unifilters but they don't have a lot of longevity. Honestly - if you have to have an exposed filter (which again does not offer a performance advantage on a stock bike - strictly a style part)  I say make your own. Go find an oval filter and sandwich it between two pieces of plate steel. Use the stock honda Velocity stacks out of your stock airbox and  you are good to go. I did it this way for years, and here is 70cb750 doing it in his build thread:
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=88103.75