Topic: Finalizing Carb Rebuild

[AintNoEasyWay]

I've got a few loose ends to finish up before I can put my cleaned, rebuilt carbs back on my K7. Hopefully you guys have some input to help me finish the process. I'd really appreciate it!

1. I've stripped some screws & need to replace them. I've managed to remove with the help of some forum advice, but I'm not sure what type of screws I need to replace these parts. Can I just grab replacements at any regular hardware store? I need to replace the screw down in the throttle slide on carb #4 & the screw at the top of the link arm fixing on carb #1.

2. One carb is missing an o-ring for the drain screw on the float bowl, but it doesn't seem that any of the o-rings in my rebuild kit fit properly. They seem either too small or too big. Any ideas where I can get one (or a few of these)?

3. The shop manual provided here on the forum states, "The choke valve securing screws are peened when assembling the carburetor at the factory. Discard the used screws." So I can't re-use these screws, I guess? If this is the case, is there a certain type (material-wise) I need to replace with or can I grab anything that fits, as in question 1.?

4. I've cleaned everything but the fuel tubes that link the carbs together. Is there anyway to clean these tubes? I assume it's best just to replace them, but not sure where I can find this rubber material. Does anyone know where I might find some?

Thanks for any help guys!

[flybox1]

1. well, they're going to be metric fine pitch.  you'll need to find a store with a good assortment, and try a few.  take the slide with you. you should be able to try those tiny screws from the outside of the slide, instead of fiddling with putting ne down inside....they're probably fine thread (1.25)

2. auto stores usually have a good assortment of metric orings in a case behind the counter.  my oreillys and auto zone do.  take your bow and drain screw in and try a few out.

3. no idea...sry

4. replace them or a good shot of carb cleaner will do. 
NOTE: if you have PD carbs, be sure not to damage the accel pump circuit tubes when taking them off.  they have two small brass tubes inside each section.  these brass tubes are important in that they take up space in the fuel circuit and allow for a better accel pump squirt...  if you replace the fuel lines here, just be sure to replace the brass tube sections where they came from.

[oldschoolcarbs]

The screws for the slides are m3 x 10 with .5 thread pitch.

The drain screw orings are 3.5mm i.d. x 1.25 mm c.s.

Are you referring to the screw that fixes the lifter arm to the shaft? That's a special 4mm 'long-shoulder' screw that provides a jiggle-free fit.

I've got them all, and my screws have the captive locking washer that is characteristic on all Jap bikes.

OSC
http://www.oldschoolcarbs.com

[AintNoEasyWay]

Thanks Flybox!

One more thing, I purchased a new accelerator pump, but I can't recall if the extra rubber piece fits all the way down the needle on the pump. Should I be sliding that rubber piece completely down the needle?

See a photo here: http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/my4jOjNqn1U_7q2IGN726KQ.jpg

[AintNoEasyWay]

The screws for the slides are m3 x 10 with .5 thread pitch.

The drain screw orings are 3.5mm i.d. x 1.25 mm c.s.

Are you referring to the screw that fixes the lifter arm to the shaft? That's a special 4mm 'long-shoulder' screw that provides a jiggle-free fit.

I've got them all, and my screws have the captive locking washer that is characteristic on all Jap bikes.

OSC
http://www.oldschoolcarbs.com

OSC, that's correct. I need the screw that fixes the lifter arm to the carb shaft running through all four carbs. Do you sell these parts? Thanks for those measurements, very helpful!

[flybox1]

that rubber piece fits IN your #2 carb body. its the squeegee for the diaphragm shaft, so no debris gets down into your accel pump.
locate the hole where the diaphragm shaft fits up into the #2 carb body...the rubber piece fits in that hole.