Topic: set valves????? sorry just cant figure out.

[seat cover man]

hey guys just got don't rebuilding top end of my 78 cb750k. all I like is to put the valve cover back on but before that id like to set valves??? can some one please tell me what to do when as far as turning crankshaft to a certain spot? then what. I don't have time to waste and do something half hazardly and wrong. any help would be appreciated just bought me a brand new set of feeler gauges for this job!! thank you

[dave500]

rotate the engine in the direction it runs and watch as any of the inlet valves close,now watching the timing marks bring that cylinders "T"mark into position,set that cylinders valves,now rotate the engine again and do which ever cylinders inlet valve starts to close untill they are all done,forget about trying to set multiple valves at a time it only confuses people,do each cylinder by itself,you might want to start with #1 and work your way across?i just start with what ever inlet valve starts to close first,less turning that way.

[bjbuchanan]

Like Dave said, the T is the important mark. It makes it easier that the cover is off, you can really see the closed valves. When the egg of the lobe is "on" the valve that is when you set the clearance, that is the lash. You could set all of them that have the bottom of the egg that way.

When you have a handle on it you can set multiple valves at once, but do one at a time if unsure. I run .025 intake and whatever fits .03 and doesn't .04, for the exhaust I use the .025 because my feeler guages come with it, nice middle of the road I suppose

After everything is assembled and you have ridden it more and feel like adjusting them again you can do the "wiggle" test and see which are on the totally closed valves. It is faster that way

[LesterPiglet]

You guys need to specify if you're using inches or mm. I've seen people getting confused lately.
These are metric bikes after all.   

[dave500]

the lobes on the cam for the valves you are setting will be pointing down.

[bjbuchanan]

You guys need to specify if you're using inches or mm. I've seen people getting confused lately.
These are metric bikes after all.   

I'm from 'Murrica, inch is all that matters, metric is stoopid

[Black 750K8]

rotate the engine in the direction it runs and watch as any of the inlet valves close,now watching the timing marks bring that cylinders "T"mark into position,set that cylinders valves,now rotate the engine again and do which ever cylinders inlet valve starts to close untill they are all done,forget about trying to set multiple valves at a time it only confuses people,do each cylinder by itself,you might want to start with #1 and work your way across?i just start with what ever inlet valve starts to close first,less turning that way.

Dave don't take this personally. But I got a big smile when I read that. Doing it the way the service manual says you only turn the motor twice  It is so easy.  Confuses people well I guess it could. It is just the less turning part gave me a chuckle.

[Davez134]

I just want to add, don't turn the engine over using the nut on the end of the ignition advancer shaft. It bends easily and can mess up ignition timing. Guess how I know that.

[dave500]

rotate the engine in the direction it runs and watch as any of the inlet valves close,now watching the timing marks bring that cylinders "T"mark into position,set that cylinders valves,now rotate the engine again and do which ever cylinders inlet valve starts to close untill they are all done,forget about trying to set multiple valves at a time it only confuses people,do each cylinder by itself,you might want to start with #1 and work your way across?i just start with what ever inlet valve starts to close first,less turning that way.

Dave don't take this personally. But I got a big smile when I read that. Doing it the way the service manual says you only turn the motor twice  It is so easy.  Confuses people well I guess it could. It is just the less turning part gave me a chuckle.

i dont take anything personally black750k8,the less turning pertains to the method i described and to start with the first inlet valve you see closing as opposed to starting with number one and having to turn it there,the manuals method requires less turning for sure,to get it to where the manual says youll have to turn it more than you need to anyway?its not important anyway,but some people find it confusing,and its not to be done with an aftermarket cam as the ramps may be different?setting them individually is better attention to detail,theres nothing wrong with either way,set your valves as per the manual,then try bringing one of the cylinders that wasnt fully on its base circle to tdc and recheck the clearance,if you want to,on an old worn cam the lead ramp is the first to wear,in some cases making it smaller than the base circle,set it here and itll be too tight on the base circle,thats in an extreme case though,thats also why some engines dont quieten down even after a valve adjustment.

[seat cover man]

Will someone pm me their phone number so I can just call.

[MCRider]

I just want to add, don't turn the engine over using the nut on the end of the ignition advancer shaft. It bends easily and can mess up ignition timing. Guess how I know that.

There are two nuts on the end of the advance shaft. Which one are you using?

The 10mm nut should be snug, that's all. The larger nut, 17mm I think, maybe 22?,  is the one to be used to turn the crank. ITs still a little puny, but that's the one to use. Put your wrench on it squarely and turn it without adding an angle to it.
Also, the plugs should be out. Makes it much easier to turn.

[MCRider]

Will someone pm me their phone number so I can just call.

Got a manual?

[lucky]

When  BOTH cam lobes on a particular cylinder are pointing down and slightly outward at 45º is when you set the valve lash for THAT cylinder.

You will not go wrong with method.


If you then look over at the crankshaft marks on the right side of the engine you will see the marks line up ALSO.

[Black 750K8]

I just want to add, don't turn the engine over using the nut on the end of the ignition advancer shaft. It bends easily and can mess up ignition timing. Guess how I know that.

There are two nuts on the end of the advance shaft. Which one are you using?

The 10mm nut should be snug, that's all. The larger nut, 17mm I think, maybe 22?,  is the one to be used to turn the crank. ITs still a little puny, but that's the one to use. Put your wrench on it squarely and turn it without adding an angle to it.
Also, the plugs should be out. Makes it much easier to turn.

+1 MC. I like to use the kicker by hand with the plugs out. Turn it over to get it close to the mark. Then take up the slack and hold it while bumping tap tap tap  with the side of your fist with the other hand.

[Black 750K8]

@ dave500 I'm all for trying different ways it is time for my 3K so I'm going to do it your way I'm sure it works just fine I've just never done it. Heck I might just like it.

[MCRider]

IT's curious to me why this presents a problem. PEr the manual, set the engine once, set 4 valves; set the engine again, set 4 valves, done. Use the big nut to turn it slowly and exactly. Everything else is a tangential distraction.