Topic: fuel not getting to carb 2 and 4 and drum brake not retracting

[cbcoker]

my 72 cb350f is having trouble getting fuel to bowls 2 and 4. I have disassembled the carbs and blown air through the fuel line and then assembled the carbs w/o the bowls and watched fuel flow. But when I started the bike it ran like crap and #4 had no pressure coming out of the exhaust and wasn't getting that hot. Knowing that 1 and 4 share the same coil and 1 was getting hot I thought fuel delivery. Anyways, I plan to take them apart again and recheck but was wondering if anyone had any suggestions as to why this might be occurring. I mean, 2 is on the main fuel line directly from the tank. The carbs have been cleaned and rebuilt like four times so far. New float needles and float bowls at the right height. Thanks anything helps.

Also, my front drum brake is sticking after use. It just doesn't seem to recoil as much as it should. I am going to take it apart and look for the obvious but any ideas as to what might cause this unfortunate circumstance.

[velo13533]

Try changing the spark plugs,and checking plug leads et. The brake problem is probably lack of lubrication on the brake shoe fulcrum. You may have to dismantle the brakes and grease the fulcrum

[Patrick]

If you are getting gas to the carb bowls and not to the cylinders, double check your carb float height. Set the floats too low and your needle valves won't let gas into the bowls.

Patrick

[Dave K]

Since cylinders 2+4 share the same points and coil, I think this maybe a place to look. They do not share the same gas line either like 1+2 or 3+4 do. JMHO

[bryanj]

Dave 1 & 4 share the same coil also 2 & 3 so it cant be eletrical I would suspect bad float valves or incorect settings

[Dave K]

Bryan, your right! Now please email my wife so she knows I am human. 

[cbcoker]

Yeah, thanks for the replies. I suspect that it is something to do with the float bowl heights and plan on rechecking them. As for the front brake, well I disassembled it completely and re-greased everything from cables down to the cams and bearings, even cleaning out the brake dust and ruffing up the pads and linings. Still I can't get the brake lever to retract completely. I see that the cams have two dots: one on the gnarled, exterior part of the cams and the other on the drum brake housing. They are markers used to make sure that the cams are aligned properly. How does the adjusting pushrod connecting the leading to the trailing brake effect performance? I would assume that by using more pushrod the trailing brake sticks out farther but I couldn't confirm that when trying to do so in my garage. I wanted to set the brakes to where they were barley touching the linings statically and then back them off again. Instead, I could never get them to bite and the only way that it appeared I could do so was to not align the punched holes on the cams and the housing. I'd like the brakes to bite earlier and get them to recoil so as not to let the brake drag slightly after use.

[bryanj]

Dave K Dont be stupid remember Rule 1 is that the husband is always wrong! (Rule 2--Refer to Rule 1)

CB Choker, Setting up a twin leading shoe brake is a "black" art only possed by old farts like me and way to complicated to describe here. E-mail me direct and i'l try and write a "How Too" if you are interested.