Topic: Setting points timing with multimeter

[drumstyx]

I'm trying to set the timing with my multimeter in ohm mode/continuity mode, but it seems to be reading between 2 and 5 ohms depending on open/closed, rather than the expected 0-infinity on closed/open...am I doing something wrong? I've got one lead to the post the blue wire attaches to, and one clipped to the ground, which is just the engine case beside the points...

I see sparks as I turn it with ignition on, so I know things are happening, but I'm just baffled...I thought I knew how this worked....

[PeWe]

I have used this instruction
http://www.hondachopper.com/garage/carb_info/timing/Static_and_Strobe_Timing.pdf

Then MRieck's eminent thread about equal point gap with a dwell meter. Adjust the point gap while running. Idle around 1200-1500 rpm.
I read it, did it and added photos into that thread.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=147444.0

[drumstyx]

I think I got it...didn't realize you have to disconnect the condensers when you do it with an ignition-off method. I did notice though that I'm basically out of adjustment room...all the way clockwise for 1-4 and all the way counter clockwise for 2-3 (and that's still about a degree early)

[firebane]

I think I got it...didn't realize you have to disconnect the condensers when you do it with an ignition-off method. I did notice though that I'm basically out of adjustment room...all the way clockwise for 1-4 and all the way counter clockwise for 2-3 (and that's still about a degree early)

1. Unplug yellow/blue from connectors near brake switch.
2. Set multimeter to "beep" mode
3. Undo 3 outer screws
4. Touch one probe to blue connector and one to bolt for condenser (condenser connected.
5. Rotate crank till 1-4 is on F
6. Rotate plate till it beeps
7. Secure 3 screws
8. Rotate crank and should stop beeping until you get the F

If it doesn't beep your gap is out and needs adjusting.

Do the same thing for the yellow wires but use 2-3 but the screws are attached to a different spot.

If you watch the hack-a-week videos there is one on setting timing that explains this. 

[Jore]

This video is always useful for static timing:

[Deltarider]

Drumstyx, setting the timing with an Ohmmeter would not be my favourite. Back then mechanics at Honda dealers used to time the ignition by simply adjusting the breakerspoint gap as almost all 'off timing' originates here. So if your bike hasn't that many miles on it or was maintained before by a dealer, there's a good chance you don't have to adjust the plates.
Trying to set the timing without first verifying the breakerpoints gap, makes no sense.
You can adjust the breakerpoints gap by using feeler gauges (I'd choose 0,4mm). Personally I find a dwellmeter* very usefull. I always time the ignition by just readjusting the breakerpoints gap to the values I've noted long time ago. That is: if needed at all, because contrary to popular believe, timing does not often need to be adjusted as long as you have the OEM parts (often I did 20.000 kms or more and still didn't need to adjust). A quick check with the strobe has always proved me right. If you have twisted the plates however, you'll have to go the full route, I'm afraid, but once all is set correctly, you can further on adopt the method professional mechanics used to apply.
* Although an analogue dwell/tach meter would be my favourite, nowadays there are DMMs that offer Dwell/Tach for a very reasonable price, so if you need a (new) DMM, look for one that has these functions.

[drumstyx]

This is a complete rebuild, so the points plate has been off for the better part of a year. I'm figuring once I get it right, the only maintenance will be in the gap, but I have to set it to start right

[strynboen]

i use my multimeter...even the kondenastore are inn over..it still give a presise reading..at the oping point..even my beeb funktion vorks..make it even easyer

[PeWe]

I used a small test lamp back in the days. A screwdriver with a small lamp in the handle. You'll see what to check for when point opens at F, if it lit or stop lit.
I never remember and not important when I see when doing it. This can be done to be close and possible to start engine. Next is ignition lamp and dwell meter. When point 2-3 is adjusted you need to check ignition for 2-3 again and you'll notice it has changed. Adjust again and check dwell once more. Maybe more adjustments.
This is due to the 2-3 point that has moved not only sideways in screw slot. New Points will need extra adjustments since the contact points need to be used.