Topic: 1972 CB750 Four K2 -- Rebuilt to NEW OLD STOCK -- PIX ON PAGE 50

[Davez134]

Ok, we gotta stop with these injuries already! Get better soon! I think I'm going to buy one of those giant bubble ball I've seen people rolling around in on tv and just spend the rest of the year in there!

[evanphi]

[Restoration Fan]

My wife actually texted me a photo of about 8 people wearing those and playing in the park in our neighborhood last Saturday morning.  She went past them while she was out running and texted the photo.  I was at a baseball game or I would have had to go up there and see that in person just to see if it is as fun as it looks.

[edwardmorris]

Thank you all, for the kind words. And yes, I know we're all messing around, I find it quite entertaining (why do you think I keep getting Cal all riled up  ). Felt better after a restful evening and a good long night of continuous sleep (pager left at work ). Woke up and called my naprapath, hoping to get a last minute appointment tomorrow to get the back losened up. Gotta admit, good part of being young? You can be stupid and blame it on youth  Wrapped up my old weight training/squat belt, numbed up and got to work on the little bits that didn't require any bending or heavy lifting. Had to make the most of my precious sick day.

Rider foot pegs got new rubbers, not in pic but have all rezinced hardware to go with the powder coated pieces.

Installed the rechromed shift lever. Before doing that I gave the covers a good final polish, now I gotta get the white diamond residue off the black detailing on the logo 

Readied the tail light and rear fender, installed all the rubbers, rechromed special bolts, new tail light, new sub harness from yami. Yamiya site shows a solid brown wire, yet the one I got has a white stripe on it, come to far to care, its on there now.

[edwardmorris]

I never could find the special washer that go between the plastic and metal rear fenders when I was doing the zinc plating last summer. Ordered new ones, then finally found them today in a ziplock bag marked "rear fender" Convenient bolt kit for rear grab rail and fender hardware.

All new everything turn signals, all installed.

Rechromed headlight bands.

[edwardmorris]

New tilt adjustment screw and spring. LOVE my JIS drivers. There's tools for the jobs, then there's these.

Rat's nest squeezed back behind the new GE lamp and all tied up back there. I'm probably worried for nothing but how does the wiring survive all that heat in the closed dome?

NOS points plate, scored at a Bill Benton Stove Top Extravaganza, installed on the crank with new hardware, will have to adjust it when I can bend a little more to see closely.

[Bill/BentON Racing]

Damn gotta get one of dem bubbles quick!  JT Norton cartoon comes to mind! Rafi, remember better to give than receive!  So there'll always be room in the cave for " that" one!!!! Lol,awesome.

[evanphi]

I'm probably worried for nothing but how does the wiring survive all that heat in the closed dome?

Teeny tiny gaps around the lamp pointed straight into the direction of travel funnels a lot of cool air into the headlight bucket!

Air cooled everything on these bikes!

[yunk]

I have a feeling, considering all the time, effort and money that you have put in to this project, an accident is waiting to happen when you take it for a ride the first time, so to unjinx it Im telling you: don't crash it.

[Davez134]

well, that was depressing

[edwardmorris]

What's more depressing is that I burnt the first half my day on the car, and most of the second half on getting the damned points to set up right. Someone walk me through this please, over the phone would be easiest

[Davez134]

I can help you with the simple things like gap and timing to get close,  but I never used a dwell meter on mine when I had points. All I did was set gaps and time with timing light while running. Using pamco unit now, so unfortunately I never really learned any more.

[edwardmorris]

So I think the points are done along with static timing. This is what I did

• Installed the points plate and turned it fully clockwise and just snugged up the screws
• Set the point gap to 0.014"/0.35mm at the wide open spot
• Disconnected the wires at the 1-4 points/condensors
• Hooked up the common/black wire from a multimeter (set to continuity beep) to the base plate
• Hooked up the test/red wire from the multimeter to the point part that's spring loaded on 1-4 side
• Turned the crank and lined up the the 1-4 F mark, the meter started beeping
• Gently tapped the base plate counterclock wise till the beeping stopped (as in points just started opening)
• Tightened down the the base plate screws
• Reconnected the 1-4 points/condensor wires
• Disconnected the 2-3 points/condensor wires
• Loosened the 2-3 sub plate screws to just snug
• Hooked up the common/black wire from a multimeter (set to continuity beep) to the base plate
• Hooked up the test/red wire from the multimeter to the point part that's spring loaded on 2-3 side
• Turned the crank and lined up the the 2-3 F mark, the meter started beeping
• Gently tapped the sub base plate counterclock wise till the beeping stopped (as in points just started opening)
• Tightened down the the sub base plate screws
• Reconnected the 2-3 points/condensor wires

Did I do this right?

[Davez134]

Sounds like you should be right on. I read that link you mentioned. I would just look again while running with the inductive timing light. Key word, Tunning, as in fire her up!

[edwardmorris]

Feeling a LOT better after today's visit with the Naprapath, had some help too.

A bit delayed but here they are, NOS 341s.


Rubber C

Rubber A

[edwardmorris]

Other side.

All new everything for the front and rear.

NOS shields with all their hardware.

[edwardmorris]

NOS gasket and clamp, haven't fully adjusted the alignment just yet.

Rezinced pillion foot rests along with new rubbers.

Kick and shift levers got new rubbers as well.

[edwardmorris]

Installed the scorpion and new positive cable.

All new fuse holder and fuses.

Nice surprise, fuse holder came with a full set of fuses already installed.

Installed and tucked away.

[edwardmorris]

NOS seat.

Rezinced seat pivot hinges and reconditioned tank rubbers.

All new logos and emblems and various all new speed nuts, emblem nuts and such.

[edwardmorris]

Didn't trust just the speed nuts to secure these so used a dab of guerrilla glue as well.

Before installing these, I routed the breather hoses from the engine head and oil tank to the left, then added smaller hose extension to turn them into chain oilers.

Finally the gas tank logos.

[edwardmorris]

Long funny and sad story behind the multimeter, I'll get to it soon, but I have one now that also measures dwell angels. I did a quick voltage test on the scorpion, reads 12.27, is this good enough to start the engine with or should I leave it on the tender for a while? I took the voltage readings across the bike to check for proper grounding and it all seems ok. Red lead on the +ve on the battery, and the common one touching the handlebars, aluminum covers on the engine etc. all read the same 12.xx volts so I hope that means the grounding is good. Turned the key and the dash lit up!

Before I moved any further, I decided to clean up the inside of the gas tank, and well, get some gas to try and fire this thing up. People with yamiya body kits, how do you wash out the fogging/lining that these tanks come with? The only suggestion I've had so far is a gasoline rinse or two.

Off to get some gas, I hope there's an answer soon

[Davez134]

People with yamiya body kits, how do you wash out the fogging/lining that these tanks come with? The only suggestion I've had so far is a gasoline rinse or two.

Off to get some gas, I hope there's an answer soon

I had some kerosene lying around, so I just put some in, swished (not sure if thats actually a word) it around and drained it out. Then I filled with gasoline. It worked for me. I'm sure a gasoline rinse would work just fine too. Pour some in the tank and watch what it does to that coating right below filler neck. It was pretty light on mine, so I'm guessing the gasoline would rinse it away.

[edwardmorris]

Well, schit  NOS gas tank cap assembly is missing the oh so critical hinge pin on the gas tank side! Has the one on the latch side. The parts fiche shows it included but clearly it isn't. Stalled by this little POS I can't believe it 

[Restoration Fan]

Long funny and sad story behind the multimeter, I'll get to it soon, but I have one now that also measures dwell angels. I did a quick voltage test on the scorpion, reads 12.27, is this good enough to start the engine with or should I leave it on the tender for a while? I took the voltage readings across the bike to check for proper grounding and it all seems ok. Red lead on the +ve on the battery, and the common one touching the handlebars, aluminum covers on the engine etc. all read the same 12.xx volts so I hope that means the grounding is good. Turned the key and the dash lit up!

12.27 will probably start it but my Scorpion charges up to about 13.6 or 13.7 so it probably wouldn't hurt to charge it up some.  If you end up doing several starts and stops then having the extra voltage ready to handle that will be useful.

I'm getting excited to hear this baby run!

[edwardmorris]

I've got a terrible nightmare coming true too, ELECTRICAL GREMLINS!

Headlight/HighBeam function as expected but could be brighter (will charge the battery).
Tail light comes on when either brake is pressed.
Tail light stays on with the ignition key turned to the third position past the red dot.
Horn is deafening.

Gauge lights don't light up at all.
Rear turn signals don't light up at all.
Front ones do but they don't blink, just stay on.

Haven't tested the starter motor yet. Also, when I pulled the oil tank cap off to install the side cover, I noticed that it has wet sumped

I hooked it all up following this diagram.