Topic: 1972 CB750 Four K2 -- Rebuilt to NEW OLD STOCK -- PIX ON PAGE 50

[edwardmorris]

More disassembly, tried to take the wheels apart, but stuck at a couple places. The engine made its way to the top of my freshly build workbench, hoping to tear into it soon. I started looking around and thinks don't look so great. Then again, that's been the theme with this whole thing..

Pic1->Q1-> How do I get the bearing retainer off this thing? It won't budge, and I don't want to scar it. Already looks banged up.
Pic2->Q2-> How do I get this ugly looking screw off the fork? Same crap as Q1.
Pic3->Q3-> How do I deal with screws that look like this?

[Terry in Australia]

Edward, you need a peg-spanner to remove the bearing retainer. Drill out the punch marks first, or you'll strip the thread.

Ugly screw should come out easy once you remove the nut, the fork tab is threaded too, so if you don't undo the nut, you won't get it out.

If that screw (or any screw) is rusted/corroded in, make a 50/50 mix of Auto Transmission Fluid (ATF) and Acetone, and soak the screw for a day or two, and it'll come out. Mangled "cheese head" screws need to have their heads drilled off.

Use a 6 or 7mm drill bit to drill down until the remains of the heads pop off, remove the cover, and then wind the remains of the screws with a pair of Vice-Grip pliers.

Have fun, don't give up, it's like "Fire and Movement", you just need to keep moving forward. Cheers, Terry.

[edwardmorris]

Edward, you need a peg-spanner to remove the bearing retainer. Drill out the punch marks first, or you'll strip the thread.

Ugly screw should come out easy once you remove the nut, the fork tab is threaded too, so if you don't undo the nut, you won't get it out.

If that screw (or any screw) is rusted/corroded in, make a 50/50 mix of Auto Transmission Fluid (ATF) and Acetone, and soak the screw for a day or two, and it'll come out. Mangled "cheese head" screws need to have their heads drilled off.

Use a 6 or 7mm drill bit to drill down until the remains of the heads pop off, remove the cover, and then wind the remains of the screws with a pair of Vice-Grip pliers.

Have fun, don't give up, it's like "Fire and Movement", you just need to keep moving forward. Cheers, Terry.

Did more googling and looks like there is a bicycle tool that will work for removing the retainers. I'm a little hesitant about drilling, does it need to be drilled just on the surface or all the way through?

The nut on the ugly screw is off, I guess more PB blaster and heat will be needed to break it free, and probably a wider flat head driver too. A chunk of the threaded part on the nut side seems off to me, its as if it was split in two, then one side broke off...WHYYY???

For the case bolts,  I will try the dremel trick before drilling it out. Hoping to replace them all regardless, suggestions for replacement kits welcome.

[Phoenix]

As far as the ugly screw, it is made with a slot on the threaded end so it can be adjusted from the outside with a screwdriver.  The one shoulder has broken off on yours.  Honda still sells the part.  For the staked bearing holder, use a big enough bit to take out the stake and go down about 1/4".  Should be able to turn it out then.  You already got the answer from Terry on the case screw.

[754]

 Once the brake screw is split it will probably kill the threads if you run it thru. If you are ready to replace it any way try this;
 Push down on brake bracket, and grab screw head with ViseGrips, then work CAREFULLY back and forth, when it starts to move, failing that step will strip the thread.
 If you get it to move, run it in a bunch of turns so that the split end is away from the fork leg, clean up the end of the screw so that there are nor burrs with a sander or Dremel. When that is done..THEN ..run it out the other way..

[edwardmorris]

A set of awesome JIS drivers including #3 impacta came in today from Gordon along with his frame kit (Thanks Gordon!). Only things missing are 5mm and 6mm wrenches to being work on the engine, hopefully will grab these tonight. Pix will be coming in the next few hours of more stuff I tore off the frame (steering and swingarm). Gotta get this to my preferred welder before he closes shop. I'm stuck on removing the swingarm bushings, and after searching, it looks like its a real PITA. Gotta read up Mark's book to see if I should even bother with this. The factory manual casually says inspect them while they are still in the swingarm 

[edwardmorris]

Looks like all the bits and pieces are there for the steering. Used a lot of PB blaster and everything came apart with relative ease.

[edwardmorris]

What is this black canister like thing under the lower triple tree? Gotta look at the fiche, I wonder if this had to do with the handlebar lock? The felt washers on the swingarm look like they're done for. I hope these can be replaced easily. Except for the bushings, the swingarm came apart and everything except for a greasing nipple is there.

[seanbarney41]

yep, that's where the steering lock was...look's like you are starting to get the hang of getting these things apart.  You have just succeeded on a couple parts where many have failed (steering stem bearings, and swing arm bushings)

[edwardmorris]

yep, that's where the steering lock was...look's like you are starting to get the hang of getting these things apart.  You have just succeeded on a couple parts where many have failed (steering stem bearings, and swing arm bushings)

WAS? So the damned thing is missing? Ugh. As for things coming apart, credit goes to Hondaman's book and the factory manual. I'm only using the "natural evolution" of methods described, if not exactly what is described.

[seanbarney41]

oops...it is so rusty and crusty in your pic, I can't see if it is there or not...should be able to pivot a little door aside and there will be a keyhole

[edwardmorris]

Once the brake screw is split it will probably kill the threads if you run it thru. If you are ready to replace it any way try this;
 Push down on brake bracket, and grab screw head with ViseGrips, then work CAREFULLY back and forth, when it starts to move, failing that step will strip the thread.
 If you get it to move, run it in a bunch of turns so that the split end is away from the fork leg, clean up the end of the screw so that there are nor burrs with a sander or Dremel. When that is done..THEN ..run it out the other way..

Worked like a charm, did precisely this.

[edwardmorris]

Everything that can possibly stop me from getting to the engine has happened and succeeded. Doing little bits here and there, took apart the front suspension till I got stuck at the snap ring. The tool from HF is too weak for the job, and the snap ring holes look large enough to try and use needle nose pliers, will try that in the next time window.

[edwardmorris]

Found some time this morning, needle nose pliers and a bit of wrestling with the thing and they snapped out. Looks like one of the tubes had water go into it, guessing by looking at the oil color and how hard it was to squeeze and retract compared to the other one.

[edwardmorris]

Also, built me this lousy contraption for parts washing. Tried out the simple green in the garage, very very mild and hardly any vapor or smell, so I'll be doing most cleaning indoors. Only thing I bought was the filter mount and the pump (pump was for something else), rest is all scrap from around the house. The HF pump failed miserably helping me deal with flooding, so this is a better use for it I guess. The shelving mesh worked out great too, was lying in the basement from the PO of the house.

[edwardmorris]

Found more time, got some tedious crap out of the way. 3 for 3 on bearing retainers. Had to start a separate thread after I didn't get anywhere with these despite drilling out the punch marks. Other experts said the retainers are replaceable so I took a gung ho approach and whacked them all outta there. Pin wrench from menards came in real handy once there was motion.

[edwardmorris]

Same thing with the next one, started moving after hitting it hard after drilling, but was dragging a$$. So I blasted PB blaster with the holes offset like in pic 1 to lube up the threads, worked like a charm, spun out easy. The front wheel retainer didn't even put up a fight, spun right off with just drilling and PB blaster.

[Tews19]

Menards hey! I will have to get me that as I want to refresh mine.

[edwardmorris]

Been washing a lot of parts as thats about all the time I can find here and there. BTW, simple green HD pro is weaksauce. Only reason I use it is because its mostly indoor safe and good to Aluminum, but doesn't lift a grain of debree without brushing.

[Jay Ace]

Hey sorry I didn't see your PM about turn signals.
I have some '72 stuff I have already taken off and in process of taking of so if you still anything let me know. I do have gauges but they have been modified:

[edwardmorris]

Hey sorry I didn't see your PM about turn signals.
I have some '72 stuff I have already taken off and in process of taking of so if you still anything let me know. I do have gauges but they have been modified:

Not sure if it was me who PMed you, I have all four turn signals. I did need the gauges but I found a stock set with new bases from another member here. Thanks for getting back though!

[Cragdog]

Looks like you're coming along! Keep up the good work, I'll be watching to see how this turns out.

[Kickstart]

Subscribed!

Anyone who wallpapers with parts diagrams and brings an engine inside the house gets my respect.

Great progress for only a few months.  Keep up the good work.

Remember to take a lot of pictures... take extra pictures even if you don't thing you need them.  I'm on my reassembly phase and the extra pictures I took are saving me.  Even stuff that looks logical when taking it apart all of sudden is perplexing when trying to put it back together.

[edwardmorris]

Thanks for the encouraging words, and HATE to disappoint. The engine is too big of a beast to haul inside. Couldn't trust my buds with not dropping it down the stairs. BUT, I built 2 brand new work benches one out in the garage and one in my basement shop. I also pulled in electrical wiring for the shop so I can deck it out with power tools as I go along. Since I couldn't get the engine inside, I'll be tearing it down outside (once I stop being apprehensive about it ) and bringing workable pieces inside. I'll do what I can with the pix, its hard with just the two hands  . As you can see, things are all over the place as I struggle to find good lengths of time to work on something end to end. So I do what I can when I can. Perhaps its a good thing I haven't touched the engine yet, best to do that all in one go.

[edwardmorris]

Also, if anyone is cleaning out their fork tubes, this Menards Libman Vent Brush works very well