Topic: 1972 CB750 Four K2 -- Rebuilt to NEW OLD STOCK -- PIX ON PAGE 50

[evanphi]

Tender/maintainer won't hurt it. Check with MM and throw it on tender while you assemble the rest during an afternoon.

[edwardmorris]

Thanks all, I'll leave it on the tender the night before I'm ready to start it up. The page turned, and I don't wanna miss on this

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,126735.msg1686023.html#msg1686023

anyone have pix of how the seat lock bracket is installed on a 750?

[Restoration Fan]

Thanks all, I'll leave it on the tender the night before I'm ready to start it up. The page turned, and I don't wanna miss on this

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,126735.msg1686023.html#msg1686023

anyone have pix of how the seat lock bracket is installed on a 750?

I can take you photos of mine when I get home from the office.  But the seat lock's on the right side of the bike and the large ground wire grounds to the bolt on the left side of the bike that goes all the way through the frame and the engine.  Is that what you mean by the frame ground terminal?

[Davez134]

Thanks all, I'll leave it on the tender the night before I'm ready to start it up. The page turned, and I don't wanna miss on this

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,126735.msg1686023.html#msg1686023

anyone have pix of how the seat lock bracket is installed on a 750?

What bracket do you have? I know there is a couple different styles. Do you have a pic of it?

[edwardmorris]

@Ron, I think the early Ks are different so your's might not be the same as mine, but thanks!

@Dave, found this one of it, but terrible angle unfortunately. It looks the same as shown in the parts fiche. It has a 6x12mm bolt which seems to thread into the spot where the ground terminal goes. There is also a threaded hole on the top but it isn't lining up quite right. I think I'll just have to install this once the harness is in place...

[Davez134]

Ok, I see it. Mine is different, forgot for a minute that a have a K1 seat. Should mount the same though, just as you described. Mine didn't line up exactly at first, maybe because of powdercoat? But after some persuasion fits right on those 2 mounting points.

[edwardmorris]

Ok, I see it. Mine is different, forgot for a minute that a have a K1 seat. Should mount the same though, just as you described. Mine didn't line up exactly at first, maybe because of powdercoat? But after some persuasion fits right on those 2 mounting points.

Excellent! So you DO have the harness ground between the bracket and the frame tab then, right?

[Davez134]

Yep

That other wire is from my pamco ignition.


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[edwardmorris]

Thanks a bunch!

Just made arrangements with my PC guy to get the replacement stands done on short notice, hopefully that'll get sorted soon. I'll finish up the rest as is for now. I forgot to post about cleaning the replacement oil tank I bought from Bill. Already painted and ready to go, but inside did have some sludge that wouldn't come off with simple green and mineral spirits. Had to use up a can of CRC but its now spotless with visible bare metal. Lined up with oil, waiting on the drain bolt and washers to arrive along with the oil filter (had to special order the crappy Fram one at the auto store just to have something to fire it up first). Too much to do, too little free time

[edwardmorris]

Well, super pissed off that once again, USPS has managed to screw things up Was expecting delivery of some NOS goodies, but looks like I won't be getting them until Tuesday

So for now, decided to move on using old parts and swap them out later. Missing oil tank drain bolt and washer, oil filter bolt, spring and "seat". For just getting the oil to the top end, I hope that missing "seat" at the oil filter won't pose a problem, I won't be firing it up until the rest of the stuff gets here.

Decided to tackle the oil tank, what a serious pain in the a$$ it was

All new breather hoses, I did locate NOS ones but the price was too much. Only difference being that the 12mm ID hose has a thicker OD than the NOS one, and the 7mm ID hose is only 0.2mm smaller than the NOS one.

NOS oil lines. I've waited a LOOOOOOOOONG time to open these up. This was probably the last set left at a stealership in the US. I had called so many of them and finally one in Utah had em both

All new everything for the rest of the set up.

[edwardmorris]

Installed new o-rings.

This is where that special "Washer Bolt" goes. Remaining three are standard bolts with washers.

Installed and torqued up to 90in-lbs! Really digging the shiny new zinc and alum ends on the lines, then the one step back its virtually impossible to screw on the inner hose holding the tank in frame. Off they came

[edwardmorris]

New oil tank rubbers and their elusive special A bolts. The thread size is 6mm, but they use 8mm washer because of the shoulder. Also, almost forgot the crush washers for the oil lines

[edwardmorris]

Oil cap got a new seal. Gotta admit, I love the look of polished stainless much better than aluminum

Another pain was to get the tabs to line up right. The PO must have dropped the bike at some point as the top rear tab was really bent outta shape. Some pliers and shop towel protection, I was able to line it back up and get the tank mounted. Installed and torqued down for now. That old drain bolt looks so terrible with all new rest of it

Too tired, will do the hoses tomorrow and fill it up after installing the oil filter. Then time to kick it over to verify oil is getting to the top end.

[edwardmorris]

By some miracle, the parts actually showed up! I was convinced they'd stay in Indy for the holiday but got a surprise this morning New oil bolt, spring and seat, new oil tank drain bolt and washer.

Rechromed everything on the kickstar except the spring and ball. Would have done them too if I wasn't terrified of losing them.

Prepped up the loaner oil pressure gauge, big thanks to Ron/MCRider! Ignore the electrical tape 

[edwardmorris]

Kickstarter installed, oil pressure gauge isntalled, oil filter installed (missing pic), breather hoses on the oil tank installed (missing pic), then started kicking the engine over with the valve train cover removed.

After about 30 kicks, top end got oil! What a relief it was to see oil gushing out nicely where it needs to.

[edwardmorris]

REALLY peeved with yamiya Damn engine cover screw kit doesn't have the two long 80mm screws that are under the breather cover. Technically I guess they aren't cover screws but still. Went searching through my pile of the old ones and found them, thank goodness I hadn't recycled them just yet.

All that remains to fully close up the engine is to install the spark plugs. Getting there, waiting to get the stands back from PC before.

Question: How difficult is it to remove and install the center stand with the exhaust/HM341s installed?

[evanphi]

REALLY peeved with yamiya Damn engine cover screw kit doesn't have the two long 80mm screws that are under the breather cover. Technically I guess they aren't cover screws but still. Went searching through my pile of the old ones and found them, thank goodness I hadn't recycled them just yet.

This must be a problem with most bolt kits... mine didn't have them either (PO installed kit) and I have stainless sockets.

[edwardmorris]

Yea, probably. I gotta check my stainless kit from James Spillane to be sure, wonder if he included them.



Began working on getting the handlebar controls installed. All new screws for the control housings, and rechromed and zinced rest of it. All new throttle and clutch cables, grips and throttle shaft. All new sub-harness for the dash.

[edwardmorris]

All new bolts, seal, bleeder, bleeder cap and Daido pads. The original caliper had some scuffing on the visible face even after painting, so I pulled out a spare one I had, ran it through the ultrasonic cleaner, painted and baked it up.

Lubed up the seal with brake fluid and the damend piston bottomed out  Doing this the first time I had no idea this was ok, and convinced myself I ruined it. Called some of the guys who've walked me out of snags, turns out this was ok, and to be sure, I could just use my compressor and blow it out. So I did, crisis averted, moved along.

Zinced up piston end cap, high vac grease on the pad where it needs to go, all set.

[edwardmorris]

All new master rebuild kit, dunked pieces in brake fluid and put it back together. New diaphragm for the reservoir (old one tore up) and new boot.

[edwardmorris]

All new banjo bolts, crush washers, brake hoses (yes, even found the early K2 hose B), mounting hardware, new brake light switch, painted T joint (I was convinced this was plastic so didn't get it coated ) and zinced up guide plate.

Everything installed and in place, need to torque the banjo bolts before filling with fluid. What do you guys typically torque these to? 28 ft-lbs seems too high.

[edwardmorris]

All new intake boots, clamps, screws, carb drain hoses and clamps.

Carbs ready to go on. Damned thing drew blood, but I got em on there. Ima leave that blood stain for now

[edwardmorris]

All new air box mounting hardware. This is where I stopped, getting frustrated and very tired. The boots simply won't go on all the way. Is there a trick to installing this? I did have to realign the boots to get them where they are now, its just that last few mils that won't slip over.

[Davez134]

Try putting the clamps on the boots snug, but not tight. Then use the clamps to push the boots over the rest of the way.

I'll try and come up with more ideas tomorrow, can't think right now. These NHL playoffs are gonna give me a heart attack!

[evanphi]

I had a post about the airbox boots in my build thread...

Things I noticed, putting the carbs on and off for what seems like the 100th time...

1. Lubricate the rubber with something. I used saliva. Cheap, and always available.
2. The airbox rubbers seem to have a long side and a short side of what sticks out of the box. Have the LONG side on top. Now, when you rock the airbox upper half upwards to install the boots, the rubber will go right to the carb body on the top AND the bottom.
3. Make sure the carb bowls are level with the engine case (use the starter motor cover as a guide). This can be accomplished by rotating the rubber boots AWAY from the center to bring the bowls DOWN. Turn TO the middle to bring them UP. Having them level makes installing the airbox boots and holding bolts much easier, too, as you don't have to fight to push the airbox top downwards.