Topic: 1972 CB750 Four K2 -- Rebuilt to NEW OLD STOCK -- PIX ON PAGE 50

[edwardmorris]

@Terry!! Thanks for stopping by mate and also for the kind words, I'm really thankful for you help and encouragement early on along with Mark, Gordon and several others.

@Jerry! Thanks! Yours is the K2 that most of my inspiration for this build came from. Believe it or not, my original plan was to paint the tank and side covers red and make it look like the bike in the first Terminator movie  . Just have a few loose ends to tie up, then I'll take some good pix with an actual camera this weekend for sure.

@Nick I'm about 20 miles from downtown Chi, stop by anytime! Yep, tires were slightly low, all fixed now.



Thank you guys, I really appreciate the love for the bike, and I thank you all again for helping me get it here. I've been struggling to find time between the demanding day job, all the Blackhawks madness and fasting all at once. I'm aiming to finish the last of the bits this weekend and do a few shakedown runs now that I've got it registered. I was hoping for some sweet custom plates but some lawsuit has that on hold .

Some questions:

1) I had 3 qts. in it at startup, oil pressure is good. Do I need to add any more since it was on an entirely empty crankcase?
2) There is a micro weep at the brake bleeder, most likely at the top where the cap goes. I'm afraid to tighten this anymore as it will definitely strip. I'll try just installing the cap first, but if the weep is at the thread, what can be done?
3) Is riding it for about 5 miles considered a good warm up? I want to do the dynamic timing soon as that one sporadic "pop" on #4 at idle doesn't want to go away.

[MCRider]

1. Check it when warm, and vertical (nearly) but not on the centerstand. Likely you need another 1/2 qt. But it will live fine on 3qts.

2. a wrap of teflon tape is not unheard of.

3. Yes IMO. Is exhaust valve too tight, on #4.

[edwardmorris]

Thanks! I'm pretty sure I had all the valves adjusted to where the gauges slides through with slight resistance (I know, terrible measure of anything) but I'm planning on redoing that and the cam chain after a few good runs. The cam is NOS, and I remember reading a post by Mark that the clearances will have to be checked as they'll change after the parkerizing wears off the new cam.

[MCRider]

Slight resistance is the goal, good feel comes with experiemce. A pop is sometimes from a too tight ex valve. Too loose is better for start up, reset is always good. Check #4 to eliminate the variable. It should "click" at touch.

If it is too tight, and you run it, you'll burn it.

[Desert-SOHC]

Very nice bike

[edwardmorris]

Slight resistance is the goal, good feel comes with experiemce. A pop is sometimes from a too tight ex valve. Too loose is better for start up, reset is always good. Check #4 to eliminate the variable. It should "click" at touch.

If it is too tight, and you run it, you'll burn it.

Yikes! I'll check it first thing tomorrow. Was going through the manual and this IS the first thing to check, followed by ignition timing and insufficient fuel. That last one is a possibility as I had to readjust the floats after #4 started overflowing. Thanks a bunch Ron!

[MCRider]

Did you replace your tappet adjusters, or inspect them for wear? They wear with a channel in them where they push on the valve tip. When you adjust them, turn the adjuster, that channel get s repositioned and if bad enough will give false readings. OFten the tip is flat out pitted and must be discarded.

Pull your #4 and take a look.

I got 30 adjusters from a salvage yard one time. Fully 1/3 of them were worn past using, 3-4 had deep pits. New ones were cheap enough I just bot them, OEM.

[oldhatt45]

Ed,

The rest of the Guys have said it all!
Really Nicely done and for sure a BOTM and BOTY candidate!!!!!!

Have fun and be safe riding her

Charlie

[edwardmorris]

Did you replace your tappet adjusters, or inspect them for wear? They wear with a channel in them where they push on the valve tip. When you adjust them, turn the adjuster, that channel get s repositioned and if bad enough will give false readings. OFten the tip is flat out pitted and must be discarded.

Pull your #4 and take a look.

I got 30 adjusters from a salvage yard one time. Fully 1/3 of them were worn past using, 3-4 had deep pits. New ones were cheap enough I just bot them, OEM.

All NEW/NOS tappets and nuts.

Checked the gap, its still nice with slight resistance.
Checked the floats, all looks good, plenty gas coming when turned on.
Checked the plug gap, good also, but did notice some carbon deposit on the electrode. I'm guessing its from the initial startup when the idle was at 4000 RPM. Doesn't seem to have gotten worse after today's short run.

I'm guessing this has to do with the idle mixture now? Pop hasn't gone away, and after talking to Jerry, I AM noticing it happen when decelerating as well, not just at idle. This is getting annoying, want it to get smooth enough for a good dynamic timing, then install the Hondaman ignition.

Checking the idle screws next, good idea or is there something else I should look into?  Thanks for the help with this Ron.

@Charlie, thanks!

[edwardmorris]

The pop is almost gone, down to very very little at low idle. Mark/Hondaman suggested that #4 carb slide height wasn't quite right, increased it slightly and it got better, will increase it some more to fully get rid of it.

Installed the NOS mirrors, bleeder screw cap and tank trim. Logged 4 more miles, nearing 10! I'm just way too tired to do any more right now 

Does anyone know where this sticker goes on the K2? This thread says "headstock", but where is that?
http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php?topic=3255.0

[evanphi]

Headstock = steering head on frame.

In terms of location, through, I have no idea. the VIN plate goes on the Left though, correct?

[edwardmorris]

Installed the NOS points cover with screws today, my friend came over to do the photo shoot, had to shine things up. Installed the Franken Finserts, pretty tight fit, gotta line a couple of them up still.

[edwardmorris]

Installed the fork lock with a new cap from yamiya and a stainless screw. Still need to figure out where all the warning stickers go. Got the tire pressure, Engine Oil and Preserver Nature and the Exhaust ones in place. The battery caution sticker didn't start until the K3, so may skip that along with the headstock one. Early K2s didn't come with those IINM.

Getting killed when it comes to finding the time and strength to log more miles, but I did get 7 more on it today after the photo shoot. I need to get the dynamic timing and carb sync done soon. There is still a pesky drip at one of the carb drain screws. Does anyone know if the 7A drain screws use a aluminum crush gasket or a rubber one? The rubbers ones aren't working all that well from what I see.

[calj737]

I am by no means an expert on those bikes, but I would find it difficult to believe the drain screws would use ally crush washers as the torque needed should surpass the thread strength. My opinion, and I have been wrong before about these idiosyncrasies.

[Tews19]

Rafi, Not sure if you want to answer this question but what is the total cost of the build? You need to post a complete before and after pic too bud!

[edwardmorris]

I am by no means an expert on those bikes, but I would find it difficult to believe the drain screws would use ally crush washers as the torque needed should surpass the thread strength. My opinion, and I have been wrong before about these idiosyncrasies.

I thought so too, but this one isn't letting up. Might just be a bad gasket, will swap it out and see. When I tighten the screw, the gasket managed to spread and slip over the screw head and fall off at one point  I only asked about the crush washers because the kit came with both the rubber ones and the aluminum ones (not talking about the sync screws alu gaskets).

[edwardmorris]

Rafi, Not sure if you want to answer this question but what is the total cost of the build? You need to post a complete before and after pic too bud!

Its quite high, needless to say those NOS HM341s are the biggest expense (cost, foreign transaction fee and international shipping). I'm afraid its not going to sell    I will need to sell it, I can't drive my car that I purchased used in college forever, its already pushing 220K  Need me a work horse to get to work

I'm working on the final batch of pix, haven't received any from the shoot yet, hopefully soon. I don't have  a lot of the before pix, but there are a couple that should work. Last item (I know, no such thing) is to figure out how to properly roll up the NOS toolkit I have for it. Also thinking about going with an authorized reprint of the owners manual, original are too pricey for their shabby condition .

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

MAN!  The sheer number of HONDA GENUINE PARTS bags in this build string is staggering. This is like a Vic World CB750K0 build with all NOS parts.  I cannot imagine the parts cost, but I still love it!

[Tews19]

Rafi, Not sure if you want to answer this question but what is the total cost of the build? You need to post a complete before and after pic too bud!

Its quite high, needless to say those NOS HM341s are the biggest expense (cost, foreign transaction fee and international shipping). I'm afraid its not going to sell    I will need to sell it, I can't drive my car that I purchased used in college forever, its already pushing 220K  Need me a work horse to get to work

I'm working on the final batch of pix, haven't received any from the shoot yet, hopefully soon. I don't have  a lot of the before pix, but there are a couple that should work. Last item (I know, no such thing) is to figure out how to properly roll up the NOS toolkit I have for it. Also thinking about going with an authorized reprint of the owners manual, original are too pricey for their shabby condition .

So you are going to sell the bike? I am not sure if I am understanding?

[edwardmorris]

Rafi, Not sure if you want to answer this question but what is the total cost of the build? You need to post a complete before and after pic too bud!

Its quite high, needless to say those NOS HM341s are the biggest expense (cost, foreign transaction fee and international shipping). I'm afraid its not going to sell    I will need to sell it, I can't drive my car that I purchased used in college forever, its already pushing 220K  Need me a work horse to get to work

I'm working on the final batch of pix, haven't received any from the shoot yet, hopefully soon. I don't have  a lot of the before pix, but there are a couple that should work. Last item (I know, no such thing) is to figure out how to properly roll up the NOS toolkit I have for it. Also thinking about going with an authorized reprint of the owners manual, original are too pricey for their shabby condition .

So you are going to sell the bike? I am not sure if I am understanding?

I'm going to have to, yes. Not thrilled about it, but I've kinda put a lot of stuff on hold to get this one done, like my car, and more critically, I need a new roof Not going to be easy parting with it, but its not going be an easy sell either

[calj737]

Curious, what do you think the asking price is going to be?

[Stev-o]

Curious, what do you think the asking price is going to be?

Sadly, not high enough to cover all those receipts. 

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Curious, what do you think the asking price is going to be?

Sadly, not high enough to cover all those receipts.

I think with any meticulous (concourse style) restoration or highly-customized build, it is impossible to recoup all of the building costs. It's really is a shame you cannot hold on to the bike. 

[edwardmorris]

Curious, what do you think the asking price is going to be?

Sadly, not high enough to cover all those receipts.

I think with any meticulous (concourse style) restoration or highly-customized build, it is impossible to recoup all of the building costs. It's really is a shame you cannot hold on to the bike.

Absolutely. And worry not, it looks like I'm stuck with this thing. I started running the numbers and stopped after it crossed 20K to save myself a cardiac event. Already depressed, feeling so irresponsible, and feeling bad for my dear dear patient wife. There is very little chance this will sell. I've seen overbuilt customs sell for less, and barely restored blandcasts sell for more, so there is a glimmer of hope for this one. Maybe a rich collector who understands that the early K2s (11/71 and earlier) are fewer in number than the sandcasts will grab it (I know, wishful thinking). This will simply have to become my long term investment for now, and the K3 build will be delayed.

I'd rather not post the breakdown, but I'll share it with prospective buyers if any.


Back to finishing this thing up, can someone who still has a tool kit for these please post a pic of how it rolls up and stays in the tool tray?

[MCRider]

Rafi: Never heard of a roll up toolkit. Mine is K2, original, and its a vinyl bag the tools drop into loosely. I'm pretty sure all Ks are that way. Fits in tray easily.

PS: My K1 was that way too.