Author Topic: CB 750 Project 1 - Rides Well but a few tweaks needed (Read 114157 times)

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #250 on:** June 03, 2015, 03:55:23 PM »

Love the color...

timbo750 · « **Reply #251 on:** June 03, 2015, 04:18:09 PM »

4 coats of clear really helps it shine

timbo750 · « **Reply #252 on:** June 08, 2015, 01:48:07 AM »

Managed to get some work done to the cases. The case had some damage around the lower parts of some thread housings, looked like the bolts used were too long. The fixes are more cosmetic than structural so just using JB weld to cover up and fix up.

Also decided that I will chase out all the threads to get rid of the last bits of the excess sealant.

Planning to plasti-guage all the crank bearings this week and clean the last bits of old paint and oil residue, I am finally seeing it being nearly ready for assembly.

timbo750 · « **Reply #253 on:** June 14, 2015, 04:56:38 PM »

Managed to get the plasti-guage out and check the clearances on crank. The issue I now have is that the crank has no markings on it for journal sizes. The main bearings are within tolerance but have some wear marks on the so they will be replaced for peace of mind. The conrod bearings are only just within tolerance so they definitely need changing.

Can anyone tell me if the numbers on the back of the conrod bearing will me what size they are?

Edit! Photo Added

knottedknickers · « **Reply #254 on:** June 15, 2015, 06:12:54 AM »

Quote from: timbo750 on June 08, 2015, 01:48:07 AM

Also decided that I will chase out all the threads to get rid of the last bits of the excess sealant.

What number tap did you use?

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #255 on:** June 15, 2015, 09:59:36 AM »

The crank 'etchings' will not be obvious but I'd 99.8% guarantee they are there unless the crank has been lightened in which case they may have been removed.

timbo750 · « **Reply #256 on:** June 21, 2015, 07:39:59 PM »

Ordered the crank and con rod bearings, I am going to soak all the other parts in oil this week and hopefully get it the cases together next weekend. Not sure if should replace the head studs, one of them broke of on the first engine and this one is only stock so I am inclined to leave it.

Also moving along on the gauges rebuild, I was going to try printing new faces for them but whilst removing the needle on the tacho I broke the face plate so I guess I have to order new ones now.

I am also going to upgrade the lights to LED. I remember reading that someone set some strip LED's inside the housing. I have some white and orange left over from when I installed them on the camping trailer. I have rebuilt the globes to give me an option that will not require modification to the existing loom.

Only decision left is white or orange light??

timbo750 · « **Reply #257 on:** June 22, 2015, 02:43:14 PM »

Fitted up a dummy run with the orange LED's to see how it looks. You will have to excuse the glass being dirty, actually I did not realise how dirty the glass was until I looked at the photos. also I will be getting new faces in black will should look much better.

The first photo was at dusk and the nest was about 45mins later.

timbo750 · « **Reply #258 on:** June 28, 2015, 02:19:13 PM »

I was for some reason compelled to check the length of the speedo cable and where it will sit near the guard mainly because the guards have been shortened from stock. In doing so I noticed that the speedo shaft was not turning when the wheel turned and knew I would have to remove the front wheel to investigate, this is something I did not want to do but decided to tackle it straight away as time was available.

So I worked out a plan to remove both callipers without having to remove the brake lines. Then I discovered issue number 2, leaking brake fluid. I wasn't sure where or how much at first but eventually worked out it was from the piston seal. This I worked out after removing it all from the forks and decided to separate the 2 parts of the calliper with the brake line still attached and you guessed it, I bent the solid brake line. The brake line hopefully isn't too bad and may bend back with gentle persuasion.

Then without really thinking too far ahead I bled out the brake fluid so I could disconnect it all but should of pumped out the piston first. So I then filled the reservoir, removed the air from the line, pushed out the pad and piston and bled out the fluid for a second time. Now to get a new piston seal and hope the brake line can moved back into shape.

As for the speedo drive, I had a few issues when I did the modification for the twin disc, for some reason my front hub is from what I believe to be an early K0 or K1 as it does not have the cut-away that are used to hold the speedo drive and keep it rotating with the wheel. I thought I had this sorted out and was relying on friction to get things to work, no luck there. I am now hoping that I can make a small cut to the hub that will allow the speedo drive plate to rotate with wheel but I suspect that may affect the wheel balance.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #259 on:** June 28, 2015, 05:42:46 PM »

G'Day Timbo, your KO/K1 hub is also wider than a K2 and later hub, so will give you problems with clearance for the second disc, and of course, the speedo drive issue, so you'd be better off swapping it for a later hub. If you need one, let me know, I'd be happy to swap it for your K0 hub for my K0 project. Cheers, Terry.

timbo750 · « **Reply #260 on:** June 28, 2015, 05:59:49 PM »

Terry, I know about the clearance issues as read heaps before I started the twin disc works and there are no clearance issues with the hub. I have actually had it all mounted up and working and the distance between the disc and forks is almost identical between the left and right. But from what you just said and what I have read around the forum I should have clearance issues?

My preference was not to change the hub as the wheel has been trued, new tyre fitted and balanced, I hate redoing work that has already been done right.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #261 on:** June 28, 2015, 06:21:45 PM »

No worries mate, I'm not sure how you're not having clearance issues, but if it's working, that's good. If you change your mind, I've got several K2 and later hubs here. Cheers, Terry.

timbo750 · « **Reply #262 on:** June 29, 2015, 01:39:20 AM »

Terry, thought I would post a pic of the hub while we are on the topic and get confirmation of the model. let me know what model you think it is.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #263 on:** June 29, 2015, 04:26:49 AM »

Yeah mate, definitely a K0 front hub, (also used in early K1's, but with the K0 disc, which is different from the later K1 - K6 disc) so too nice to take to with a dremel. Cheers, Terry.

HondaMan · « **Reply #264 on:** June 30, 2015, 04:40:06 PM »

Quote from: Terry in Australia on June 28, 2015, 05:42:46 PM

G'Day Timbo, your KO/K1 hub is also wider than a K2 and later hub, so will give you problems with clearance for the second disc, and of course, the speedo drive issue, so you'd be better off swapping it for a later hub. If you need one, let me know, I'd be happy to swap it for your K0 hub for my K0 project. Cheers, Terry.

...and if Terry doesn't want it, I'm doing a [slow] K0, too...

timbo750 · « **Reply #265 on:** June 30, 2015, 04:59:16 PM »

Ok, OK, I will not touch it. I just checked the other wheels I have and turns out I have 2 complete with later model hubs. I will admit that the reason I used this one was because the hub had been cleaned and polished and the wheel trued.

The better of the 2 other wheels will some spokes changed as I can see some slight surface rust. So it looks like I get to try my hand at respoking the wheel and truing it.

Terry if you are still interested there are two options for the wheel, I can keep the tyre and sell you the hub and rim all clean and trued or if you are interested in the tyre I can keep it on, let me know if you are interested.

timbo750 · « **Reply #266 on:** July 01, 2015, 04:02:30 AM »

Got the other wheel out that I was going to use and removed the old tire. Unfortunately the rim has a few marks on it and some slight surface rust on both the rim and spokes. So tomorrow I will check the rim on my 2nd other rim and hope that its in reasonable condition.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #267 on:** July 01, 2015, 06:32:29 PM »

Quote from: timbo750 on June 30, 2015, 04:59:16 PM

Ok, OK, I will not touch it. I just checked the other wheels I have and turns out I have 2 complete with later model hubs. I will admit that the reason I used this one was because the hub had been cleaned and polished and the wheel trued.

The better of the 2 other wheels will some spokes changed as I can see some slight surface rust. So it looks like I get to try my hand at respoking the wheel and truing it.

Terry if you are still interested there are two options for the wheel, I can keep the tyre and sell you the hub and rim all clean and trued or if you are interested in the tyre I can keep it on, let me know if you are interested.

Thanks Timbo, definitely interested mate, what tyre is on the rim now? Cheers, Terry.

timbo750 · « **Reply #268 on:** July 01, 2015, 07:10:22 PM »

Terry. It is a Pirelli sport demon. The issue I have now is that I have 2 other complete wheels in the 72-76 age bracket but both have #$%*ty rims and surface rust on the spokes. Do you have a complete wheel that would suit me in good condition and we can swap for the price of the tyre.?

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Terry in Australia · « **Reply #269 on:** July 02, 2015, 04:49:54 AM »

G'Day Tim, thanks for that, sadly I don't, but I can buy you a new rim and spokes and you can keep the tyre if you like? The Pirelli Sport Demon is a brilliant tyre, but I'll be looking for something more traditional for my K0 project. Cheers, Terry.

timbo750 · « **Reply #270 on:** July 02, 2015, 08:51:55 PM »

Terry, over the weekend I am going to make a better assessment of all that I have for this. I may keep the rim I have an change over the hub. Do you have a later model hub on its own in good condition we can swap?

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #271 on:** July 03, 2015, 01:15:29 AM »

Quote from: timbo750 on July 02, 2015, 08:51:55 PM

Terry, over the weekend I am going to make a better assessment of all that I have for this. I may keep the rim I have an change over the hub. Do you have a later model hub on its own in good condition we can swap?

G'Day Timbo, thanks mate, I've got 2 or 3 hubs here, and I think they're all pretty good, but they'll need a clean of course. Cheers, Terry.

timbo750 · « **Reply #272 on:** July 12, 2015, 06:44:23 PM »

I discovered some more damaged threads in the crank case, or not so much the threads damaged but the casing around the threads. I was wondering how I could of missed these, but I guess I wasn't expecting it so I over looked it. so I am patching the case with JB Weld and before I install and parts into the case I am going to connect them together and torque all the bolts, I hope this case is better than just scrap metal.

Terry, thanks for the offer on the hub I have decided to use what I have got and have ordered a new set of spokes. the later model hub I have removed from the rim and started to clean up and starting to look good. Also need to get a dial gauge so I can true the wheel once the spokes and rim are installed to the hub.

mystic_1 · « **Reply #273 on:** July 12, 2015, 08:27:08 PM »

Wow, I don't even...

That's some pretty impressive damage, never seen anything like that before. It's almost like there was something incompressable in the holes before the bolts were run in, and that somehow created enough pressure to explode the side out of the casting from the inside.

I'd be checking pretty closely for cracks etc in those areas, especially since you're adjascent to the transmission shaft bearings.

mystic_1

timbo750 · « **Reply #274 on:** July 12, 2015, 09:57:40 PM »

I have looked for cracks and still keep looking every time I do some work on.

My thoughts on why were possibly incorrect length bolts (too long that is) combined with over torquing, but i will say that they did have a lot of sealant in the lower parts of the thtead recess.

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Author Topic: CB 750 Project 1 - Rides Well but a few tweaks needed (Read 114157 times)