Author Topic: CB 750 Project 1 - Rides Well but a few tweaks needed (Read 116435 times)

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #325 on:** October 27, 2015, 02:26:30 AM »

Quote from: timbo750 on October 27, 2015, 12:44:20 AM

Well I don't know what the coating is on the engine but the paint stripper is not touching it. It will come of with a wire wheel on the dremel but that is going drive me nuts. I will try brushing the paint stripper with a small wire brush and see what happens.

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On stubborn paint I sometimes use gloves, paint stripper and stainless steel wool....

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #326 on:** October 27, 2015, 04:05:16 AM »

That diggers stuff is good on single pack paints Tim, but if some genius has used 2 pack, you'll need to go to an auto paint store and get some super heavy duty stripper designed to remove hardened paint. Cheers, Terry.

timbo750 · « **Reply #327 on:** October 28, 2015, 12:04:00 AM »

Thanks Terry, got some and have smeared it around. Just have to wait and see, it certainly smelt more toxic.

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Terry in Australia · « **Reply #328 on:** October 28, 2015, 12:07:40 AM »

No worries, the stuff I bought at an auto paint shop is supposed to remove tank sealant, so it should rip any hardened paint off. Cheers, Terry.

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #329 on:** October 28, 2015, 12:40:00 AM »

Quote from: timbo750 on October 28, 2015, 12:04:00 AM

Thanks Terry, got some and have smeared it around. Just have to wait and see, it certainly smelt more toxic.

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Thats why I suggest gloves, good paint stripper is nasty stuff and burns your skin on contact. Give the steel wool a go in the hard to get at sections, I used to use it on push bike frames and it worked a treat......

timbo750 · « **Reply #330 on:** November 04, 2015, 03:09:13 PM »

Managed to get it acceptably clean for painting. Used the heavy duty stripper gloves and wire brushes of different sizes. After a wash the dremel got rid of the last bits. Now I just need to do the other half. One these years I will actually get this thing going.

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timbo750 · « **Reply #331 on:** November 08, 2015, 09:52:04 PM »

Got into the shed on sunday and got some stuff done.

Found some dried up paint stripper on the case in those tight little hard to get spots so I got out the pressure cleaner. I did this once before and got soaked from head to toe from the splash back so this time I split an old 2litre plastic container and made a guard. Not only was I drier but I was able to blast those tight spots for longer. Then got the air nozzle to blow out all the threads and found the bottom of the main bearing threads still had silicone in them and enough that may of affected torque on the bolts.

Got out the bezels for the gauges and stripped them back and got some nice gloss black, I haven't picked them up and had a good look yet but they hopefully won't need sanding, also sprayed the final coat on the caliper and it ready to go back on. I had actually sprayed both the caliper and the bezel's before but at separate time I had dropped them and chipped the paint so they needed redoing.

I thought that after cleaning the engine I would be on track this weekend to start assembling the lower cases, and realised that with all the parts I have ordered form different suppliers I have forgotten to order a new set of drive chains. now ordered fro Yamiya and if I am lucky they may arrive on Friday.

The other I have noticed is a slight burring or raised section of the casing at where the cam slider fits in. I have not checked yet if I am likely to encounter any issues fitted the casing (didn't have it at home) so will check that during the week. there are some photos of this below.

timbo750 · « **Reply #332 on:** November 12, 2015, 01:53:48 AM »

Got the chain, ordered it monday got it Wednesday. Great service Japan to Aus in 2 days. Now I just need to hope that I actually get shed time.

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timbo750 · « **Reply #333 on:** November 14, 2015, 05:35:44 PM »

Putting the engine back together finally. I have been making sure all parts move with no resistance as I go, I was sliding the gear on the primary shaft to observe how the gears lock and noticed that it didn't lock on one side. So looked closely to determine if it should lock before I checked the manual. And once again the stupid PO has got me again. He has reassembled the shaft with one gear on the shaft the wrong way around, so now I am off to buy a bearing puller so I can fix the issue.

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timbo750 · « **Reply #334 on:** November 15, 2015, 12:15:05 PM »

Got the bearing off easy with the right tool and swapped over the gear so it works as it should. I got all the shafts in place, including the shift drum and forks and got some of the shift mechanism in place as well. I am planning to test fit it first to make sure he gears shift as they should before I seal them up properly. let me know if anything looks out of place in the photos.

edwardmorris · « **Reply #335 on:** November 15, 2015, 02:32:41 PM »

Can't tell from the angle but the shift drum's notch needs to be at 8 O'clock or you may have trouble getting it in neutral and seating the neutral switch.

timbo750 · « **Reply #336 on:** November 15, 2015, 03:44:27 PM »

Yeah I scoped the switch out along the drum position but didn't have the o'ring handy that goes with the switch so that will be the next to go in.

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timbo750 · « **Reply #337 on:** November 15, 2015, 11:05:40 PM »

Got the cases test fitted and all seems to work well. I shifted through all the gears and got drive to the final shaft in all gears.
I started checking to make sure I have all the correct bolts and you would guess I don't. So will pick up what i need tomorrow and try to get it together before the weekend.

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timbo750 · « **Reply #338 on:** November 19, 2015, 12:31:36 AM »

Cases are together, sealed and torqued down. Have to lap the valves before the head goes on so final assembly might not be for a few more weeks but I am hoping to have the engine in the in the next 4 weeks.

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timbo750 · « **Reply #339 on:** November 20, 2015, 08:36:03 PM »

Pulled the valves out of the head and noticed a considerable difference in the valve guides between the intake and exhaust. The exhaust have no seal on them which seams quite unusual. Is this normal, I am gathering not as the gasket kit comes with 8 valve seals.

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01Thomas · « **Reply #340 on:** November 20, 2015, 08:39:02 PM »

Hi. The exhaust valve guides on the early heads did indeed not have any valve stem seals. Unusual yes, but that's how Honda did it in the early days.

Regards
Thomas

timbo750 · « **Reply #341 on:** November 20, 2015, 10:12:39 PM »

Thanks Thomas. From memory this engine is supposed to be 75 or 76 but I am also certain it has been pulled apart a few times and some parts would of been swapped out.

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timbo750 · « **Reply #342 on:** November 22, 2015, 12:18:42 AM »

Pulled all the valves out this weekend. I removed some of the casting irregularities and lapped the valves. Should get the head reassembled during the week.

Now I need to get the shift mechanism right. It is shifting through gears when I use a screw driver on the shift drum but after installing the shaft that that the gear lever attaches to, the shift drum is not rotating when I move the shift shaft.

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timbo750 · « **Reply #343 on:** November 24, 2015, 01:23:13 AM »

Got the head back together and noticed a few dowels missing. Not sure why I didn't notice them missing before, I will have a look arounf for them and may to place another order to Yamiya, I think the Japanese post will end up knowing me as well as my local postie.

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Davez134 · « **Reply #344 on:** November 24, 2015, 01:49:38 AM »

Quote from: timbo750 on November 24, 2015, 01:23:13 AM

I think the Japanese post will end up knowing me as well as my local postie.

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I know the feeling. My mail carrier enjoyed following my build too!

edwardmorris · « **Reply #345 on:** November 24, 2015, 02:17:59 PM »

Be sure to order the correct length dowel pins, the parts manual has them listed incorrectly as 22mm long, they're really 18mm long.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,107040.msg1672454.html#msg1672454

timbo750 · « **Reply #346 on:** November 29, 2015, 08:33:42 PM »

I was making sure I had all the bits to assemble the heads and cylinders on the weekend and noticed the washer that I have for under the head nuts on the head studs are different thicknesses. I can't imagine this would be and issue and I think its another hang over from the PO but if anyone thinks an issue then please let me know.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #347 on:** November 30, 2015, 03:26:42 AM »

Shouldn't be a problem Tim, Are they copper washers, or steel? From memory, the washers on the studs that go through the oilways need to be copper, or they'll leak. From memory again, the nuts for these should be captive, for the same reason. Sorry mate, I'm a bit rusty as I haven't pulled one apart for a couple of years. Cheers, Terry.

timbo750 · « **Reply #348 on:** November 30, 2015, 10:10:15 AM »

I have no captive nuts and no copper washers. So I better do some reading on the subject.

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timbo750 · « **Reply #349 on:** November 30, 2015, 07:43:38 PM »

Terry, I didn't read a lot, I usually follow the theory that a picture tells a thousand words. I have an electronic copy of the factory workshop manual and it doesn't mention much, however I did find a picture that shows not cap nuts. I also checked the Yamiya site and he mentions them being for the sandcast and shows them on the outside studs.

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Author Topic: CB 750 Project 1 - Rides Well but a few tweaks needed (Read 116435 times)