Author Topic: CB 750 Project 1 - Rides Well but a few tweaks needed (Read 114838 times)

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #450 on:** January 15, 2016, 02:56:05 PM »

Timbo,

You might want to replace it with a magnetic drain plug. For about $15-18, they will hold onto any feris matter and keep it from recycling through your engine. Good for during the break in period.

http://goldplug.com/#plugfinder

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #451 on:** January 15, 2016, 05:33:29 PM »

+1 on the magnetic drain plug Tim, I use them in all my bikes. Cheers, Terry.

timbo750 · « **Reply #452 on:** January 15, 2016, 05:51:52 PM »

Yeah the plan was for one of them. But just want to plug it for now.

Almost got the engine in, I could only get some bolt hole line up, then I discovered why.

timbo750 · « **Reply #453 on:** January 15, 2016, 08:46:45 PM »

Well finally the engine is in the frame, I still need to fit the appropriate side covers as I only fitted some old ones I didn't have worry as much about scratches. I also fitted up the new Ikons, very happy with how they look. here are some photos of the process. it all went very well, however i forgot all about the long bolts used to hold the motor in and how crappy they look, I am sure i have a spare set that I can zinc plated and swap them over later.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #454 on:** January 16, 2016, 12:56:31 AM »

Looking good Tim, I like the black head/silver barrels look, very stylish!If you ever want to swap those K2 forks out for K6 forks, let me know mate, I've got a good set here, and I need some K2 forks.

I did some more work on Mike's bike today and fired it up for the first time ever (I built the engine out of parts I had laying around my garage because his engine was stuffed) and am very happy with it, no strange rattles (apart from the usual CB750 rattles) and excellent oil pressure, so apart from a few little adjustments and an issue with one of Carpy's oil lines, it's all good! Cheers, Terry.

timbo750 · « **Reply #455 on:** January 16, 2016, 01:05:44 AM »

Thanks, can't actually remember what the difference is between K2 and K6 forks, am I right in sayi g the calipers are behind the forks?

Also regarding the oil lines, is carpy where you mormally get them? There used to be a bloke ebay somwhere here is Aus doing a change over but he doesnt seem to be listed anymore. I was thinking of getting Pirtek to do mine.

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Terry in Australia · « **Reply #456 on:** January 16, 2016, 01:18:23 AM »

Thanks Tim, the K2 forks are different castings to the K6 forks, but all of the calipers were in front of the forks on the K series bikes. The Carpy lines are just stainless braided lines with pretend "Nuts" on the end, actually just fancy chrome covers for crappy hose clamps.

The "In" hose was pissing out oil before I pulled it apart and saw that when Carpy was assembling the hose into the "nut" he didn't insert it all the way in, so I pulled it apart and re-installed the hose (prick of a job) and now there's just a slight weep, but not good enough, so I might have to take them to Pirtek.

I've only wasted 4 or 5 litres of new oil so far, but I'm kidding myself that at least I'm flushing any crud out of the oil tank..........

timbo750 · « **Reply #457 on:** January 16, 2016, 03:07:42 PM »

I have got 2 sets of hoses. So I am going to strip one of them down and clean the fittings and then take them down with the other hose to use as a template to get the lengths exact.

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Terry in Australia · « **Reply #458 on:** January 16, 2016, 11:43:08 PM »

Yep, that's the way to go Tim, I've given all my spare hoses away, so I'll have to re-use the ends off these ones after I turf that Carpy crap in the bin. Cheers, Terry.

timbo750 · « **Reply #459 on:** January 17, 2016, 12:45:57 AM »

I started cleaning the hoses and oil tank and noticed the spare ones where longer. I know the F tank is different, did it result in a longer hose as well?

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Terry in Australia · « **Reply #460 on:** January 17, 2016, 10:50:44 PM »

That's probably it mate, I don't have an F here, so can't confirm, but the oil tank's are different shapes, so the hoses might be different lengths. Cheers, Terry.

timbo750 · « **Reply #461 on:** January 22, 2016, 05:05:43 PM »

I got myself a new drive chain from Yamiya whilst I was getting some other parts. The only thing is that all the instructions are in Japanese. Now i have done a drive chain before but it had the clip on the link but this one is different and I think I now need a tool to close the link?

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seanbarney41 · « **Reply #462 on:** January 22, 2016, 05:35:28 PM »

you can buy clip links separately

timbo750 · « **Reply #463 on:** January 22, 2016, 06:09:06 PM »

Sean, thanks I will ring some bike shops. I actually think I may of made a tool last time using a G clamp but it was 17 years ago and a lot has gone past my brain since then.

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Retro Rocket · « **Reply #464 on:** January 22, 2016, 06:11:44 PM »

Tim, most X,O, and Z ring chains come with a tool that helps put the link on without creating a tight spot in the chain, try googling it and you should be able to find what you need, or just pop off down to the nearest reputable bike shop and ask...

Tim, I should have said "spacer" instead of "tool" , some O ring chains come with a spacer that's used inside the link when its being riveted or peened so the O ring in the master link doesn't get crushed and create a tight spot in the chain, as well as losing lube from a crushed O ring, its removed once the link is riveted/peened....

timbo750 · « **Reply #465 on:** January 22, 2016, 06:52:23 PM »

Thanks, I will be honest that I have not opened the link packet yet

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Terry in Australia · « **Reply #466 on:** January 22, 2016, 07:27:57 PM »

I haven't been lucky enough to find a chain that came with anything but a rivet link Tim, so don't get your hopes up too high, and most friendly bike shops will tell you to fcuk off if you ask them for help with something you bought on the Internet, so it might be a safer bet to buy a rivet tool. I've had one now for several years and it's worth it's weight in gold. Cheers, Terry.

timbo750 · « **Reply #467 on:** January 22, 2016, 07:38:37 PM »

I am sure I will use one again. This bike restoration thing has bit me, I have my next 2 builds planned.

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timbo750 · « **Reply #468 on:** January 23, 2016, 07:59:45 PM »

I have been cleaning some of the bolt on bits, air box, oil tank etc. I am using a strong degreaser most likely similar to simple green. Air box cleaned up well and I will get some peanut oil which I have heard rejuvenates the plastic quite well. I am however wishing I cleaned the oil tank a lot earlier as it had a mixture of oil and water in it and now has some surface rust inside. It's not too bad and only in patches but I think I should remove it. So once I finish cleaning its time for a vinegar bath.

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timbo750 · « **Reply #469 on:** January 27, 2016, 06:59:30 PM »

Things are slowly progressing but at least they progressing. clutch cover is fitted and clutch adjusted. Shift mechanism is now working and the alternator parts are soaking in cleaner and should go in this weekend.

I also got a chain tool and that all done and adjusted but then I also realised that I don't have a sprocket cover, I am trying to find one around on flea bay etc but not with much luck.

Also I was wondering if there was some way to work out the condition of a starter motor, I actually have a few of them and they all seem in good condition and I can run straight of a battery but does that tell me enough. I also need to sort out the coils, I have a set from K and a set from an F but the K leads are damaged and it doesn't look like you can change them.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #470 on:** January 27, 2016, 07:36:32 PM »

G'Day Tim, K or F coils are the same, so no issue there. I might have a spare transmission cover, but I won't be back in Melbourne until Saturday week? Bad starters are rare, I did have one on my F2 that had been dragged thru hell and back, including being set on fire by a PO.

Mine would labor to turn the engine over, and made a constant clicking noise when the bike was in motion which confused the hell out of me trying to diagnose where the noise was coming from.

I eventually swapped it for another used one, and suddenly my bike was fun to ride. Bottom line, use the best one you've got and it should be fine. Cheers, Terry. ; D

timbo750 · « **Reply #471 on:** January 27, 2016, 08:02:27 PM »

Terry. Thanks, I have the cover over the shift mechanism, and to be honest I do actually have a sprocket cover but it polished along with a full set of covers for the other engine and as this engine is being painted it seems a waste to paint the polished unit. But I am not in a rush for it yet.

timbo750 · « **Reply #472 on:** January 28, 2016, 01:22:11 AM »

I am in the process of cleaning up the some of the electricals and have question that might seem to have an obvious answer but I want to check anyway.

There are 3 wires coming from the stator coil and the are all coloured yellow. Does this mean that when you connect them it does dont matter what order they are connected? I need to put new plugs on them and want to get it right the first time.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #473 on:** January 28, 2016, 01:37:58 AM »

That's it Tim, it doesn't matter how they're connected. Cheers, Terry. ; D

mystic_1 · « **Reply #474 on:** January 28, 2016, 04:08:24 PM »

Yup the alternator produces alternating current, so there's no polarity on the yellow wires, which carry the AC to the rectifier where it's turned into DC.

Use whatever arrangement allows you to dress the wires as cleanly into the wiring channel in the crankcase as possible.

mystic_1

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Author Topic: CB 750 Project 1 - Rides Well but a few tweaks needed (Read 114838 times)