Topic: CB 750 Project 1 - Rides Well but a few tweaks needed

[martin99]

I'm betting there's not too much wrong with your tank. I've seen at least two different lengths of tank rubbers on these Hondas. You will probably be able to find longer rubbers with a bit of searching, fitting them will remove the lateral movement at the front. Trouble is, I can't remember which models have which rubbers. The DOHC tanks fit the same way - maybe they have the longer rubbers I'm thinking of? I don't have any to compare, but it might be worth posting the measurements of your rubbers in case anyone here has longer ones they can send you?

[timbo750]

I finally got some of the oil pump apart and I am confident that the pump itself is ok so I am not going to completely pull it apart.

What I am really happy about is that I finally found someone to do some wet blasting, does heaps of bike stuff and old cars, so I will now end up with all the bare aluminium looking like factory with a bit of clear over the top.

still got lower fork issues though, turns out the right hand one I purchased is from a K0 and although the mounts and internals are the same as the K2 the casting is slightly different and is noticeable enough. but I think I have a K2 sourced, just waiting on photos.

The frame and other parts are at the powder coaters still and should have them in a week, but the motor is still not making any progress, I am tempted to find someone else to do the machining but how do you tell a mate he is stuffing you around and you use someone else to do what he was going to do.

I have also been trying to find a master cylinder to suit the twin disc setup, the bike wreckers here in Aus want stupid prices for a second hand one and I havn't had much luck finding a GL1000 so I am going to buy a new one from DCC they have great unit that looks close to factory unit and the price similar to the one from the wreckers.

[edwardmorris]

If you're pondering the idea of clear over engine cases, I'd say be cautious and do some digging first. Too many horror stories about clears turning brown, I've yet to find a high temp clear that actually works as well as the one Honda used. If yours is a K2, then the engine was painted silver from the factory anyway so you might wanna consider that instead. I had this dilemma and started a thread somewhere, general advice was to stay away from clear for engine parts and go with silver as it came from the factory.

[timbo750]

If you're pondering the idea of clear over engine cases, I'd say be cautious and do some digging first. Too many horror stories about clears turning brown, I've yet to find a high temp clear that actually works as well as the one Honda used. If yours is a K2, then the engine was painted silver from the factory anyway so you might wanna consider that instead. I had this dilemma and started a thread somewhere, general advice was to stay away from clear for engine parts and go with silver as it came from the factory.

It was suggested to leave the covers bare and just keep them clean, I have been told that apparently the clear that doesn't go yellow is POR. I was definately going to PC the case, block and head. Its just thst the parts look so good after the wet blasting it would be a shame to cover them up.

Project 1 CB750 - http//forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=126864

[timbo750]

The next thing I am not quite sure about pulling apart is the carb backing plate. I started to do it by loosening all the bolts and screws but the shaft would not remove, then found out about the pin that holds it in place. Now I am not so keen unless I absolutely have too.

How do I determine if the assembly needs pulling apart, there seems to be no freeplay on the shaft but it does move end to end a bit, more than I would of expected but I am not sure how this will affect the reliability of smooth carb operation.

[Stev-o]

If you're pondering the idea of clear over engine cases, I'd say be cautious and do some digging first. Too many horror stories about clears turning brown, I've yet to find a high temp clear that actually works as well as the one Honda used. If yours is a K2, then the engine was painted silver from the factory anyway so you might wanna consider that instead. I had this dilemma and started a thread somewhere, general advice was to stay away from clear for engine parts and go with silver as it came from the factory.

It was suggested to leave the covers bare and just keep them clean, I have been told that apparently the clear that doesn't go yellow is POR. I was definately going to PC the case, block and head. Its just thst the parts look so good after the wet blasting it would be a shame to cover them up.

Project 1 CB750 - http//forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=126864

Found you Timbo.  +1 leave the side covers bare and just polish 2-3 times a year

[timbo750]

Latest delivery was SOHC T-shirt and happy to wear the branding but not overall happy with quality of printing. It is some blurred, not centred on the front and after one was is showing signs of wear.

[timbo750]

Well I have hit a milestone finally, the frame and some other parts have come back from the powder coaters. Really happy with the finish on the frame and frame parts, had a drama though with the brake capiler parts. There were bad marks where the they had been hung and also the didn't tape/plug the brake line and bleed screw holes. But he is going the redo them, they will be sent of the get stripped and then redone.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

When you pay good money for services like powdercoating, you should get exactly what you wanted.

[Jerilee]

Looking great, cant wait to get there with my frame! Get some pics of the calipers when they come back. Good luck with assembly.

Did you go with a gloss black or matte?

[Stev-o]

Frame looks great.   

[timbo750]

I was looking at the frame yesterday and noticed a rust hole. It would of shown up after the PC blasted the frame and they didn't say anything, its a pain that I have to fix it but the bastard could of said something. I now have to strip back the fresh coating and come up with a solution to fix it.

The rust hole is on the side of the gusset that the rear of the engine bolts to. I am thinking of cutting a piece that fits over and around the existing plate as it will be easier than fitting a piece back in the same spot. I know it will be visible when it is all finished but only the trained eye will notice it is there.

[edwardmorris]

Sorry to hear timbo, but it looks like its just the gusseting plate? Or did you find some damage in the tubing too? The PC guy sure isn't blind, why didn't he tell you?

[timbo750]

On a brighter note, i now finally have all the parts to reassemble my forks. Got the lowers from Bill last week and took them to the chrome shop to get stripped, as they were not busy they had them done quick and i got them to polish to a brushed/satin finish as well.

Got my progressive springs from DCC along with a new brake master and some other bits.

The engine is finally making some head way and I have been doing the porting myself at my mates workshop. Unfortunately one of the studs broke of while trying to remove so that now need to machined out and a new thread inserted.

The other thing I started is a new seat base, the only one i have is rusted too bad and the prices here are ridiculous and postage too much from overseas. So I am trying to make it as low profile as I can but still two up, will post pictures when I can.

[timbo750]

Sorry to hear timbo, but it looks like its just the gusseting plate? Or did you find some damage in the tubing too? The PC guy sure isn't blind, why didn't he tell you?

The Tube looks to be ok, but when something rusts from the inside out you never really know. I am unsure of the structural/strength requirements of this gusset so i do not want to take any shortcuts.
I do know that the PC gut had truoble with staff when my frame was getting done and had to replace staff due to their work, so I would say that the owner didn't even see the frame so I will talk to him on monday and see what he says.

[calj737]

Any repair you do there, should be able to re-coated without detriment. A touch up PC spray is very common and you PC guy should be able to take care of you.

[timbo750]

Cal. Thanks I didn't know that it could be touched up, thats quite a relief.

Project 1 CB750 - http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=126864

[edwardmorris]

If you're worried about rusting from inside out, you might want to consider Eastwood's internal frame coating.

This thread terrified me

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=132523.0

So eventually I went through it all and coated it from the inside, some details here

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=126735.75

[timbo750]

Got the frame fixed, the PC guy offered to fix the rust hole he blasted it and repaired the hole and patched the PC, I was impressed that he offered to do it for free. Then I went pick it up he complained about the money and time he lost fixing the issue, I found this very strange as it was something he offered to do, all I originally asked him to do was patch the PC after I fixed the rust hole. No future business going his way.

I did notice that there are insufficient drain holes in the frame so I will get some drilled and then before I go any further I am going to treat the inside of the frame with fish oil.

So I now have all the parts to finally get the frame rolling, the upper triple needs a clean up but I can do that while the frame is soaking.

Also the engine is finally making some head way, the head is ported, did that myself at my mates workshop. the ports really are a #$%* shape as standard, they do have quite a flow restriction around the valve boss. The machining work should start this week but some of threads are stuffed for the head studs so they are all getting fixed.

So it might be still a couple of weeks away but I will soon have the reassembly started.

[Retro Rocket]

Tim, you mentioned in another thread that you can't get the primary chain tensioner, cycle X have the stock and better than stock tensioners for sale on their site...  Check this page out mate...

http://www.cyclexchange.net/Engine%20Parts%20Lower%20End.htm

[timbo750]

Retro, the oem unit is as the web site says 'out of stock forever' and the other unit is on an exchange basis which works out to be costly for anyone out of the states.

Project 1 CB750 - http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=126864

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Retro, the oem unit is as the web site says 'out of stock forever' and the other unit is on an exchange basis which works out to be costly for anyone out of the states.

Project 1 CB750 - http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=126864

Every now and again, Cycle X will sell you an improved tensioner without the exchange.

[timbo750]

I have actually got two old ones. One is worn too much and the other is ok. My post was to help FB with an idea of what help his business grow, he clearly provides a quality product and if I can help him then it will help us all in then end.

Project 1 CB750 - http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=126864

[Retro Rocket]

Retro, the oem unit is as the web site says 'out of stock forever' and the other unit is on an exchange basis which works out to be costly for anyone out of the states.

Project 1 CB750 - http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=126864

I got mine without exchange....   I'm about to buy an adjustable one and another improved one...
I have 3 old ones. If you have any problems see if you can get a member that has one to send it to cyclex for you, i've done similar things with members here....

[Terry in Australia]

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