Author Topic: CB 750 Project 1 - Rides Well but a few tweaks needed (Read 138683 times)

Davez134 · « **Reply #525 on:** February 14, 2016, 01:13:04 PM »

Look at the 4th and 5th pic down here. Only pics I took of it. Bendable metal tab just back from vin plate under sprocket cover. Holds wire from starter and wiring coming from stator.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=139768.msg1638375#msg1638375

timbo750 · « **Reply #526 on:** February 14, 2016, 01:55:24 PM »

Thanks Dave, took me a while to find it, its sort of camouflaged.

Davez134 · « **Reply #527 on:** February 14, 2016, 02:21:17 PM »

Yeah, sorry not the best pic. I painted over it cause I knew it was going to be covered

timbo750 · « **Reply #528 on:** February 14, 2016, 06:35:53 PM »

Thats ok. I actually enjoyed browsing back through your thread and seeing the quality of the work. Kinda wishing now I also painted with the wrinkle finish.

timbo750 · « **Reply #529 on:** February 17, 2016, 01:00:08 AM »

Started to mount up the oil tank, fitted the rubbers, attached the oil lines and then started to line up the bolts. What a pain that is. Got one then couldn't get tbe others. Tried another then managed to get the second but no chance at all for the third.

It looked as though the tank was from a different model but I was sure the only tanks were K and F. Disconnected the oil lines and managed to get a 3 bolts in but they were tight. It would seem that either the new oil lines are either slightly too long, only 5mm or they are far more rigid than the original and not flexing enough to allow the tank to fit up.

I have the oil lines already fitted to the crank case, so now I will fit them to the tank first and then try to fit to the case but I fear that will be just as hard to fit.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #530 on:** February 17, 2016, 01:19:26 AM »

G'Day Tim, I wondered the same thing when I saw those long swaged on fittings, I know that the hoses need to be bent at some tight angles, and wondered if they'd go in easy? You said that you had a spare set of hoses off an F, if you used them as templates for the new K hoses they'll be too long, I compared F to K hoses last weekend, and the F hoses are considerably longer. Cheers, Terry.

timbo750 · « **Reply #531 on:** February 17, 2016, 01:47:29 AM »

Terry. I pulled apart the F hoses and used the K hoses as a template and they seemed to be very close but I think with the rigid hose and long fittings I am pushing it up hill.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #532 on:** February 17, 2016, 01:59:57 AM »

I think you're right Tim, I'd try connecting them to the engine first, then to the loose oil tank, then finally try to bolt the tank back to the frame. (be careful not to cross thread the mounting bolts, it's easy to do with the tank wobbling around) Cheers, Terry.

RandyBMC · « **Reply #533 on:** February 17, 2016, 08:20:26 PM »

You mentioned the clutch cable routing with flat bars. I have drag bars on mine, and I'm trying to figure out my routing now. I have it through the stock gauge area - above the upper triple, and above the lower triple then down the right frame side under the tach cable. With the stock length, it doesn't look like it's going to work.

How did you end up doing yours, and is it the stock length?

Thanks,
Randy

timbo750 · « **Reply #534 on:** February 17, 2016, 09:19:13 PM »

Still haven't sorted that yet. I was hoping for some pictures. I might get around to fitting the lever and then I will post pictures.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #535 on:** February 18, 2016, 12:09:22 AM »

Quote from: timbo750 on February 10, 2016, 03:49:45 PM

Cal thanks. I think I need to find some pictures or diagrams, the wiring on this bike was shambles and all over the place when I got it so I have nothing to go by here.

I also just picked up these.

Yeah, the more I look at them, the more I think that the longer rigid metal covers on those hoses will stop them from bending to the correct shape as the old ones Tim. Can you trim them back a bit? Cheers, Terry.

timbo750 · « **Reply #536 on:** February 18, 2016, 02:26:07 AM »

Well I managed to get the tank in place and the hoses on. One hose looks ok and the other looks a bit all over the place. But when you look back at the old hoses it may be ok.

timbo750 · « **Reply #537 on:** February 19, 2016, 09:24:24 PM »

Got the electrics in for the neutral switch, oil pressure switch, and then got the sprocket cover on. Also got the coils fitted. I had to make up some brackets for the coils as they were fouling slightly on franks frame mod, in hindsight the frame kit would of been better a bit further back.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #538 on:** February 20, 2016, 12:55:28 AM »

Very nice Tim, well done! Cheers, Terry.

timbo750 · « **Reply #539 on:** February 20, 2016, 01:01:10 AM »

Thanks Terry. You can't actually tell from the photo above but the brackets are bent so coils are angled inwards to each other to improve the clearance for the spark plug leads.

timbo750 · « **Reply #540 on:** February 20, 2016, 04:35:05 PM »

Trying to fit the rear brake and found another hurdle. The arm on the brake shaft the pulls the brake on is fouling on the swing arm. Either that or I am trying fit it incorrectly. It is as though the arm is too long.

mystic_1 · « **Reply #541 on:** February 20, 2016, 05:26:10 PM »

The arm of the brake pivot should be infront of the swingarm. Index it that way before you slide it into the frame tube.

mystic_1

timbo750 · « **Reply #542 on:** February 20, 2016, 07:52:03 PM »

I did try it in that position but it just didn't look quite right, but I also didn't try to fit the rod yet.

mystic_1 · « **Reply #543 on:** February 20, 2016, 08:12:07 PM »

The clevis end of the brake arm has a bit of a "hook" to it, the "ears" should point up, such that the hook shape lowers the front end of the rod and lets it clear the swingarm pivot. The pin only goes in one way IIRC because there's a little tab on one side that keeps it from rotating. Don't forget the cotter pin.

mystic_1

timbo750 · « **Reply #544 on:** February 20, 2016, 08:26:38 PM »

Clarity is starting to show its face.

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #545 on:** February 20, 2016, 11:35:24 PM »

I have never been able to install that part with the swingarm in place....cheer up, it really only takes about half an hour to move the swingarm

timbo750 · « **Reply #546 on:** February 20, 2016, 11:44:49 PM »

Sean, I am not sure if you want to hear this but I can easily get it in place with the swingarm where it is. I think this photo shows it in the right place.

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #547 on:** February 21, 2016, 12:13:12 AM »

good deal...I just always make sure to put it in before the swingarm after a couple times not being able to figure it out

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #548 on:** February 21, 2016, 12:14:11 AM »

Ha ha, now lets see you install the spring, rod and cotter pin Tim, that'll wipe the smile off your dial!

timbo750 · « **Reply #549 on:** February 21, 2016, 12:14:32 AM »

I actualy had to lie down and look up underneath the first time and then hold my tongue the right way.

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Author Topic: CB 750 Project 1 - Rides Well but a few tweaks needed (Read 138683 times)