Topic: CB 750 Project 1 - Rides Well but a few tweaks needed

[timbo750]

Terry. I pulled apart the F hoses and used the K hoses as a template and they seemed to be very close but I think with the rigid hose and long fittings I am pushing it up hill.

[Terry in Australia]

I think you're right Tim, I'd try connecting them to the engine first, then to the loose oil tank, then finally try to bolt the tank back to the frame. (be careful not to cross thread the mounting bolts, it's easy to do with the tank wobbling around) Cheers, Terry.

[RandyBMC]

You mentioned the clutch cable routing with flat bars.  I have drag bars on mine, and I'm trying to figure out my routing now.  I have it through the stock gauge area - above the upper triple, and above the lower triple then down the right frame side under the tach cable.  With the stock length, it doesn't look like it's going to work.

How did you end up doing yours, and is it the stock length?

Thanks,
Randy

[timbo750]

Still haven't sorted that yet. I was hoping for some pictures. I might get around to fitting the lever and then I will post pictures.

[Terry in Australia]

Cal thanks. I think I need to find some pictures or diagrams, the wiring on this bike was shambles and all over the place when I got it so I have nothing to go by here.

I also just picked up these.

Yeah, the more I look at them, the more I think that the longer rigid metal covers on those hoses will stop them from bending to the correct shape as the old ones Tim. Can you trim them back a bit? Cheers, Terry.

[timbo750]

Well I managed to get the tank in place and the hoses on. One hose looks ok and the other looks a bit all over the place. But when you look back at the old hoses it may be ok.

[timbo750]

Got the electrics in for the neutral switch, oil pressure switch, and then got the sprocket cover on. Also got the coils fitted. I had to make up some brackets for the coils as they were fouling slightly on franks frame mod, in hindsight the frame kit would of been better a bit further back.

[Terry in Australia]

Very nice Tim, well done! Cheers, Terry.

[timbo750]

Thanks Terry. You can't actually tell from the photo above but the brackets are bent so coils are angled inwards to each other to improve the clearance for the spark plug leads.

[timbo750]

Trying to fit the rear brake and found another hurdle. The arm on the brake shaft the pulls the brake on is fouling on the swing arm. Either that or I am trying fit it incorrectly. It is as though the arm is too long.

[mystic_1]

The arm of the brake pivot should be infront of the swingarm.  Index it that way before you slide it into the frame tube.

mystic_1

[timbo750]

I did try it in that position but it just didn't look quite right, but I also didn't try to fit the rod yet.

[mystic_1]

The clevis end of the brake arm has a bit of a "hook" to it, the "ears" should point up, such that the hook shape lowers the front end of the rod and lets it clear the swingarm pivot.  The pin only goes in one way IIRC because there's a little tab on one side that keeps it from rotating.  Don't forget the cotter pin. 




mystic_1

[timbo750]

Clarity is starting to show its face.

[seanbarney41]

I have never been able to install that part with the swingarm in place....cheer up, it really only takes about half an hour to move the swingarm

[timbo750]

Sean, I am not sure if you want to hear this but I can easily get it in place with the swingarm where it is. I think this photo shows it in the right place.

[seanbarney41]

good deal...I just always make sure to put it in before the swingarm after a couple times not being able to figure it out

[Terry in Australia]

Ha ha, now lets see you install the spring, rod and cotter pin Tim, that'll wipe the smile off your dial!

[timbo750]

I actualy had to lie down and look up underneath the first time and then hold my tongue the right way.

[timbo750]

Terry. Challenge accepted.

[Terry in Australia]

OK, set the stop watch mate, any longer than 30 minutes and you'll have to apologise to Sean, his memories of installing that fcuker are very similar to mine!

[timbo750]

Done. I couldn't find the original pin. May of been so bad I threw it out. Used a 6mm stainless long shank bolt and cut it down then drilled a 3mm hole. It most certainly would of been easier without the oil tank,  and engine in place. I still need to fold over the split pin ends but need another pair og long noae pliers and I have them at work.

[timbo750]

Next thing I am trying to sort out are the wires behind the headlight. I have no worries reading and understanding a wiring diagram, and in fact I could rewire the entire bike if I needed to but I certainly do not feel the need.

What has me a little puzzled is that it would seem I have extra wires. I have looked over the different diagrams for later models as cross reference but the changes really were only minor and don't answer my questions. most of the wires connect up alright but the following wires need sorting.

From the L/H switch, I have 2 pale blue wires, one is slightly different in color but the wiring diagram has 10 wires and I have 11.

From the main Harness, the following wires seem to be extra.
Pale Green
Brown
2nd Brown w/white stripe
2nd Black - have checked polarity, it is connected to the other black wire
Grey

The main Harness is new and I got it a long time ago from ebay and supposed to be K3 but the Clymer manual has K1-K5 all the same, I believe only a few plugs changed. The switch blocks are also new and I got them from Z1 Parts.

I am tempted to connect everything else and to start turning things on to what turns live, but if anyone has any bright ideas I would appreciate some feedback.

[calj737]

From the L/H switch, I have 2 pale blue wires - 1 is usually the HI beam power and the other is the HI indicator to the gauge

From the main Harness, the following wires seem to be extra.
Pale Green - Should be for your HORN
Brown -
2nd Brown w/white stripe - Should be power (backlights) for your Tach and power for your Speedo
2nd Black - have checked polarity, it is connected to the other black wire - Should be power for your NEUTRAL indicator at the gauge
Grey - Should be for your Turn Signal relay

You say these are "extra" so I can't explain if you have the components already connected why there are any more connectors than required.

[Terry in Australia]

Don't worry about it Tim, some switch-blocks look identical but probably originated from different Honda's over different years, and so there are usually extraneous wires that can't be accounted for, however, as long as you get all your ignition, lights, horn and blinkers working, it doesn't matter.

The K2 I'm building for Mike is a case in point. I couldn't get a K2 harness, so I bought one for a K3-K5 (or maybe K6, I can't remember) and it has way more wires than I need, but as Honda used pretty much the same color code for each bike of the era, I could still plug in the light blue and the orange wires from the left switchblock, which made both blinkers blink, the brown wire with the white stripe for the headlight switch, the black wire with the white stripe for ignition, etc.

I just use one of those little test lights with a clip on one wire and a point at the other, to earth the light, connect it to each wire coming up from the harness with the key switched to "on" and it only takes a few minutes to connect up all the wires I need, then I tape off any "live" male connectors so I don't get any shorts when I shove the headlight assembly back into the bucket. Simple.