Topic: CB 750 Project 1 - Rides Well but a few tweaks needed

[timbo750]

Also I would assume that I am safe using silicone grease without any issues on those rubbers.

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[Terry in Australia]

Yeah mate, I've only ever used WD40, but as it's not in an oilway it won't be a problem, if you've got it, use it! Cheers, Terry.

[timbo750]

The carbies are now at the right height and a little bit silicone grease certainly helped rotate them to the right height. Just waiting on few parts from Yamiya that should be here early in the week so I can finish the wiring and then test the circuits. Test fitted the spare tank to make sure no clearance issues underneath as well. I think I am actually getting close and it makes me little nervous.

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[timbo750]

Also the the shift lever has far too much play in it. The bolt is as tight as I dare to go, I need to search my parts boxes for another.

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[Terry in Australia]

You shouldn't have a problem with parts Tim, after that recent parts haul! Just make sure you don't strip the splines on the shifter shaft. Cheers, Terry

[timbo750]

I am glad you mentioned that,  I would almost certainly strip the spline if I used this one. I had this one rechromed too and its not only the wrong one but it would be very hard to work out what its from.

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[timbo750]

Found another shift lever, I am sure it came off the cop bike. Its a bit fugly.

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[Terry in Australia]

It looks like the one I had on my F2 Tim, should work fine. Cheers, Terry.

[timbo750]

Parts arrived. Just need spare time now. Ha hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha!

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[Terry in Australia]

Well done Tim, geez I hope you cut and paste all those "ha"s, or else it's no wonder you've got no time to work on your bike........

[timbo750]

Quick fingers Terry.

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[timbo750]

managed to get 10 mins in the shed, half the air box is fitted and I can now continue to cable tie the wiring and get the electrics finalised this weekend. But I have another newbie question regarding the wired from the points, is there a right or wrong way to route them or is it a case of what suits best, I have attached a photo.

[Terry in Australia]

That's some nice work Tim, well done. Once upon a time when your bike was new, there was a metal"keeper" for the ignition wires attached to that 6mm bolt above the wiring now (like the one on the other side that holds your alternator wires away from the front sprocket) then the wires were threaded under the clutch, along the downtube behind the oil tank where another insulated soft metal strap went around the frame tube and the wiring, which of course then connected to the blue and yellow wires coming from the main harness.

Do your carb linkages hit the alloy frame connectors when you crank the throttle open Tim? Or is it just an optical illusion? Cheers, Terry.

[timbo750]

Thanks Terry, I will have to get something equivalent to the tabs as I don't think cable ties will do the job.

Yes there is clearance between the carb linkages and the frame kit, but I wish I cut the frame a bit further forward.

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[timbo750]

Another 10min in the shed. Made the small leads to go from the the Dyna coils to the factory plugs using the plugs from Yamiya . I have also been searching for something equivalent to the tabs I need without much luck yet.

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[timbo750]

Trying to get a bolt in place for the foot brake stopper thingy. Cant get a 6mm in and not sure if the thread is stuffed or it is a different size.

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[timbo750]

Finally got power through the electrical circuits, but as expected there are gremlins.
Guage lights and oil light works. Only have power at one of the three fuses, wont turn over but that seems to be with the clutch switch so I was thinking to bypass that and just rely on the neutral but that doesn't seem to working either. So sunday afternoon is not a good time to be starting to trace electrical faults. Will tackle it next weekend when I am in a frame of mind suitable for the task.

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[timbo750]

I was hoping to get the electrical's sorted over the weekend. I had got myself in the right frame of mind to trouble shoot why things weren't working, went to the shed on Saturday afternoon and did just that, found all the issues, the clutch lever wasn't allowing the switch button to come out fully so made a small recess with a file, happy days, got the engine to turn over with the start button.

So I wrote a list of things to do, there was one fault in the main loom and a few leads to make up due to some non standard items fitted and was going to tackle it on Sunday whilst watching Bathurst. Did some things around the house first to keep the other half happy and then the power went off because of the weather, no power no soldering iron no fixing electrical's and couldn't even watch the race.

So will fix the electrical's next weekend, just need to find a 2 prong flasher unit that will handle led lights.

[timbo750]

I now have all the electricals sorted except for the indicators, and the issue has me baffled.

I have first checked that all the switches work before connecting lights, had 12 volts being switch correctly through the right colour wires as per the diagram, I am using LED turn signals and only 2 wires but I see no reason that to be an issue. When I connect the lights I am then only getting 5.5 volts and I can not get the turn indicator light to work through the turn switch either - yes the bulb works.

I don't have the lights connected at the moment but that shouldn't matter and as the LED lights should in theory just plug in and work I do not see how they could be the issue. Is it just the earth? everything else works and why is the indicator light not working?

[calj737]

What Flasher relay are you using? Stock mechanical type need more voltage than 5.5v to trigger.

[timbo750]

I had in place an electronic flasher but its a 3 pin and not led compatible, I have picked up a new 2 pin LED compatible unit today but I don't think that explains the change in voltage, unless the flasher unit is the cause.

[Terry in Australia]

Knackered flasher cans are common, but anyway, you should have 12 volts everywhere or you've got an issue. The brake pedal isn't threaded mate, it's an 8mm hole and you need a nut and bolt for it. If you can't get a 6mm bolt thru, you haven't lined the bolt hole up with the notch in the pedal shaft. Cheers, Terry.

[timbo750]

Terry, different bolt, I was referring to the one on the frame tab that creates the return stop.

The good news is the electricals are all now sorted. I knew that standard flasher units - even the electronic ones -don't like LED's but I would not of expected the drop in voltage, it was though the unit was half way through a flash cycle and stopped due to a lack of current draw. But none of that matters as it all works now including the diodes.

There are still a few bolt on bits that need finishing and also the exhaust, then it will be time to fire it up.

[Terry in Australia]

No worries Tim, I saw the pic of the brake lever sans bolt and assumed that was what you were referring to. Glad you got your wiring sorted. Cheers, Terry.

[timbo750]

Getting ready to fit the exhaust and a few other things this weekend so I can hopefully start it up soon. I have an exhaust system that i got with bike, no idea on make or how loud but it will fit for now.

The question I have is that the muffler has no clamp where it fits over the header and it doesn't have a slot so that it can be clamped. Should I just cut a slot and use a suitable exhaust clamp or am I better of welding something directly to it so that it can be clamped.