Author Topic: CB 750 Project 1 - Rides Well but a few tweaks needed (Read 114124 times)

calj737 · « **Reply #100 on:** July 06, 2014, 06:34:42 PM »

Countersunk is not mandatory. Deburring the edges is. As long as you've got smooth surfaces that won't grab or erode the pads, you'll be fine.

Don R · « **Reply #101 on:** July 06, 2014, 10:07:08 PM »

Did you index the holes so when they are on the bike the holes line up? After the first one was done I bolted my rotors face to face and transferred the marks with a transfer punch.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #102 on:** July 06, 2014, 11:31:30 PM »

Quote from: Don R on July 06, 2014, 10:07:08 PM

Did you index the holes so when they are on the bike the holes line up? After the first one was done I bolted my rotors face to face and transferred the marks with a transfer punch.

I think most people do if their drill patterns are mirrored images.

De-burring is the most important finish to cross drilling. You don't want a metal bur gouging your pads.

timbo750 · « **Reply #103 on:** July 07, 2014, 04:50:51 AM »

Thanks guys, there are no burs and I lined up the rotors before drilling the second one and the pattern is mirrored.

I was working out the difference between the 750 and 500 speedo drives I had and realised I did not have the piece of the 500 drive that is different from the 750. I got the 500 one early on when I was I still learning and found it for sale at what I thought was a good price, its not a good price if its not what you thought it was going to be.

So I will now work out if I want to modify the 750, or make an adaptor to get the 500 working.

For now I will dream of actually assembling something without finding out that I have another dodgy piece of pie.

timbo750 · « **Reply #104 on:** July 30, 2014, 02:33:57 PM »

I wish I had something to report but I am just waiting on other people for most stuff at the moment.

I had a broken stud in the case so that is of to get sparked out.

The repairs to the fork lowers have made no progress.

I sprayed the inners on my discs and I am not happy with the paint (too soft for some reason) so I will need to strip that and do it again.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #105 on:** July 31, 2014, 09:58:43 PM »

Can you cook the painted parts in your oven to harden the paint Tim? Cheers, Terry.

timbo750 · « **Reply #106 on:** August 01, 2014, 02:55:27 PM »

Quote from: Terry in Australia on July 31, 2014, 09:58:43 PM

Can you cook the painted parts in your oven to harden the paint Tim? Cheers, Terry.

Terry, I might try that on one of the smaller items to see. I actually think it might just be #$%* paint.

Edit: I suppose the issue is what temp and for how long?

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #107 on:** August 01, 2014, 05:26:19 PM »

What paint did you use mate? Some engine enamels don't go hard until they've been cooked by engine heat, so aren't good on other parts unless you cook them in an oven. I've got a couple of ovens in my garage, so I can do it without pissing off the wife. Cheers, Terry.

timbo750 · « **Reply #108 on:** August 01, 2014, 06:02:28 PM »

I used a Dulux quick dry enamel which I know is not the best choice but the paint finish ended up ok just not herd enough.

The wife took the youngest son this morning to soccer so I went for it. Did some quick searching and decided on 70 degrees Celsius for 20min.

The smell wasn't too bad, the funny thing is that there was no smell until about the 17-18 min mark, must be when something happens to the paint. So I have steamed the oven afterwards with water/lemon juice mix and the oldest son he couldn't smell anything funny, so figures crossed and I got away with it. I did notice that Aldo has a toaster oven for sale for $50, might go get one for the shed for next time, divorce is will cost a lot more than $50.

Also found out about a home made soda blaster that jam going to try this weekend as well. With a bit of luck I might be able to paint the cases next weekend and them ready for assembly.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #109 on:** August 01, 2014, 06:18:45 PM »

No worries mate, I always start at around 50 deg C and work my way up. Supercheap sells a really good Holts engine enamel, (I've used their black and silver colours with success) and I always etch prime bare aluminium cases with a zinc rich etch primer first, to make sure that the paint will stick. Cheers, Terry.

Stev-o · « **Reply #110 on:** August 02, 2014, 06:57:02 PM »

I used caliper paint on my disc, worked great (no need to bake)

timbo750 · « **Reply #111 on:** August 16, 2014, 10:28:12 PM »

Finally managed to get some shed time - but not much.
It has raised some questions though.
Firstly with the All Balls conversion the paperwork that comes with it says to measure the height of the old races and balls compared to the new bearing, no issues there and one of the washers supplied is an almost exact match. But the lower tripple has a recess at the bottom of the shaft that would make the old race sit lower than the new one but I can't acuaratly measure the recess.

It would be only approx 1mm but I am not sure about weather I should be concerned with this recess or not.

timbo750 · « **Reply #112 on:** August 16, 2014, 11:28:38 PM »

The second question relates to swing arm bushing. I got the roller bush kit from DCC which didn't cost that much more and looked so much better. But the instructions are not much to brag about and was wondering the best way to insert the bearings with out damaging them?

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #113 on:** August 17, 2014, 02:28:04 AM »

G'Day Timbo, the most important thing with your steering head bearings is making sure that there is clearance between your lower triple and your headstock. I don't know if I've used the all balls kit, I've used a few, and on some I've had to use a spacer between the lower triple and the bottom bearing, and on others I haven't.

Measure the distance of the bearing recess in the headstock, then measure the assembled bearing, and that should tell you if you need to use a spacer or not.

The needle roller bearing kits are rubbish. The needles are fragile and will rot if water gets in, and will develop flat spots as they wear, and the pivot pin smacks into them when you go over bumps. I used to get paid to covert needle roller bearing swingarms and suspension linkages on 1980's Suzuki RM, GS, GSX and GSXR's to accept bronze bushes. Buy some bronze bushes and sell that kit to some other poor unsuspecting rube. Cheers, Terry.

Stev-o · « **Reply #114 on:** August 17, 2014, 05:08:59 AM »

Quote from: Terry in Australia on August 17, 2014, 02:28:04 AM

G'Day Timbo, the most important thing with your steering head bearings is making sure that there is clearance between your lower triple and your headstock. I don't know if I've used the all balls kit, I've used a few, and on some I've had to use a spacer between the lower triple and the bottom bearing, and on others I haven't.

Measure the distance of the bearing recess in the headstock, then measure the assembled bearing, and that should tell you if you need to use a spacer or not.

+1. I installed the Allballs kit last weekend, I used the thin spacer between the lower triple and the bearing. Use a piece of PVC pipe to pound the bearing onto the triple.
The new Allballs kits now include a washer that installs on top of the upper bearing.

Here is the tapered bearing thread if you want more info...

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=1516.0

timbo750 · « **Reply #115 on:** August 17, 2014, 03:48:52 PM »

Terry and Stev-o

Thanks for the info, Terry the way you explained it makes much more sense than the paperwork that came with the kit, I guess I should of asked about the roller bearings before I got them, I can see how because the swing arm only moves over such a small arc that the bearing would definitely get a flat spot.. Stev-o thanks for the link, a great help.

timbo750 · « **Reply #116 on:** August 17, 2014, 07:15:46 PM »

I have been searching for a supplier of the bushes, 750 Supply and Vintage 750 are both out of stock. Yamiya and CMS don't seem to have them, has anyone got and ideas on where else to look?

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #117 on:** August 17, 2014, 11:35:53 PM »

Quote from: timbo750 on August 17, 2014, 07:15:46 PM

I have been searching for a supplier of the bushes, 750 Supply and Vintage 750 are both out of stock. Yamiya and CMS don't seem to have them, has anyone got and ideas on where else to look?

Forum member Hondaman has the oilite brass bushes for sale....

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #118 on:** August 18, 2014, 12:45:37 AM »

These ones are the go mate, I bought two sets and have used them both with no problems. The price is incredibly cheap ($28 US including postage) and the quality is excellent. (they're from Germany, ze Germans are big on quality.........) I think I'll order another couple of sets while I'm here. Cheers, Terry.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CB-250-360-400-500-550-750-Four-swingarm-bronze-bushing-set-bearing-new-/281371815863?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4183112fb7&vxp=mtr

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #119 on:** August 18, 2014, 08:02:15 AM »

Quote from: Terry in Australia on August 18, 2014, 12:45:37 AM

These ones are the go mate, I bought two sets and have used them both with no problems. The price is incredibly cheap ($28 US including postage) and the quality is excellent. (they're from Germany, ze Germans are big on quality.........) I think I'll order another couple of sets while I'm here. Cheers, Terry.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CB-250-360-400-500-550-750-Four-swingarm-bronze-bushing-set-bearing-new-/281371815863?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4183112fb7&vxp=mtr

Terry,

You're in the States?

timbo750 · « **Reply #120 on:** August 18, 2014, 02:06:03 PM »

Quote from: Terry in Australia on August 18, 2014, 12:45:37 AM

These ones are the go mate, I bought two sets and have used them both with no problems. The price is incredibly cheap ($28 US including postage) and the quality is excellent. (they're from Germany, ze Germans are big on quality.........) I think I'll order another couple of sets while I'm here. Cheers, Terry.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CB-250-360-400-500-550-750-Four-swingarm-bronze-bushing-set-bearing-new-/281371815863?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4183112fb7&vxp=mtr

Terry thanks, got them ordered. Half the price of most others and I do like German precision.

timbo750 · « **Reply #121 on:** August 18, 2014, 02:13:51 PM »

Another question is about some aluminium repair I need to get done.

One of the combustion chambers has some pitting around the edge of where the head gasket will sit and some around one of the vale seats. I have been waiting for what seems an eternity to get it welded at my mates machine shop - he is not the welder and the guys who does the welding is only there occasionally and usually busy doing his own thing.

Whilst reading another thread I can across a mention of some aluminium brazing rods called HTS2000, has anyone had experience with these? The web site has good information and I sent them an email asking about using it in the combustion chamber and they said there will be no issue and plenty of customers already do similar repairs to mine.

My interest in using these is so that I can do the repair as it is the only thing stopping the machine work from getting finished.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #122 on:** August 22, 2014, 05:13:13 PM »

Quote from: CB750 Cafe Racer Fan on August 18, 2014, 08:02:15 AM

Quote from: Terry in Australia on August 18, 2014, 12:45:37 AM
These ones are the go mate, I bought two sets and have used them both with no problems. The price is incredibly cheap ($28 US including postage) and the quality is excellent. (they're from Germany, ze Germans are big on quality.........) I think I'll order another couple of sets while I'm here. Cheers, Terry.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CB-250-360-400-500-550-750-Four-swingarm-bronze-bushing-set-bearing-new-/281371815863?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4183112fb7&vxp=mtr

Terry,

You're in the States?

G'Day mate, no, but the seller doesn't list them in eBay Australia. If I was in the US, I'd be knocking on your door by now! Cheers, Terry.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #123 on:** August 22, 2014, 05:17:42 PM »

G'Day Timbo, I've seen a guy demonstrating how to weld with those (or similar) alloy brazing rods at a couple of swap meets, and it was amazing, that stuff works bloody fantastic, so of course, I bought some, took it home, and couldn't get it to stick, but that's just my incompetence, and no reflection of the product.

My cuz used to fix lawn mower bases at his mower shop with it, and reckons it's the ant's pants. Having said all that, wouldn't it be easier to just buy a better head? Cheers, Terry.

timbo750 · « **Reply #124 on:** August 24, 2014, 02:28:35 PM »

I was thinking I should change the title and remove the reference about the set backs, but not after this weekend.

Firstly I decided to remove the collar from the old swing arm in preparation for the new brass bushes. I don't know why I was so surprised to find it in the condition that it was in after everything else that I dealt with so far. Also it looks like someone chrome plated the swing arm with all the bushes and collar installed.

Then on Sunday I thought I would sand the tank and find out how much filler there actually was in there. The tank was in primer when I got it and I knew it had some filler but its now a lot lighter. I think getting this tank to reasonable condition will be a project on its own.

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Author Topic: CB 750 Project 1 - Rides Well but a few tweaks needed (Read 114124 times)