Author Topic: HM341 Preservation: WAS: Baffle/stuck steel wool removal (Read 11322 times)

Stev-o · « **Reply #25 on:** September 22, 2013, 05:53:10 AM »

Holy #$%*e! That was inside 1 pipe?

edwardmorris · « **Reply #26 on:** September 22, 2013, 09:36:00 AM »

Quote from: Stev-o on September 22, 2013, 05:53:10 AM

Holy #$%*e! That was inside 1 pipe?

Yep. Not sure if you can see it in the pic but there is the PO's metal line/hook thing that had broken off attached to it as well. I ought to call him and ask WTH was he trying to do?. Now that the blockage is out, any tips on containing the rust situation? And how to go about patching those meteor craters?

mcpuffett · « **Reply #27 on:** September 22, 2013, 09:42:37 AM »

You could braise patches over the holes to make them work, they won't be pretty but functional

cheers Mick.

crazypj · « **Reply #28 on:** September 22, 2013, 10:35:02 AM »

Might be better to braze the patches on, brass should probably last longer than beef

Stev-o · « **Reply #29 on:** September 22, 2013, 03:22:10 PM »

Unless you own brazing equip, go to your local muffler shop and ask if they could patch the large area of rust.
Small holes can be plugged with high heat JB Weld.

edwardmorris · « **Reply #30 on:** September 22, 2013, 04:48:29 PM »

Quote from: Stev-o on September 22, 2013, 03:22:10 PM

Unless you own brazing equip, go to your local muffler shop and ask if they could patch the large area of rust.
Small holes can be plugged with high heat JB Weld.

Local shop didn't wan't to touch these because of how fragile they are. One of the machine shops in the area with aluminum welders has agreed to take a look but no until next week (sigh). I suppose I can still try and get the rusting to stop. The end caps aren't budging because they are rusted sealed to the pipes. Any product recommendations to contain the rust situation? I've already googled and a bunch of stuff showed up, but I'd rather start with something someone has used and has worked well and safely....

78 k550 · « **Reply #31 on:** September 22, 2013, 05:20:01 PM »

I have a really nice set of 341's did you post up here in the wanted section?

Paul

edwardmorris · « **Reply #32 on:** September 24, 2013, 08:35:38 PM »

Has anyone ever used HTS-2000? What do you guys think?

HTS 2000 Aluminum Repair

edwardmorris · « **Reply #33 on:** September 28, 2013, 10:53:36 AM »

So far, $hit for luck, three welding shops have turned these down, all scared of damaging them more. Aluminum welder says its a bad idea to put aluminum patches on steel pipes. Looking for suggestions, anything I can do on my own, like weld kits/brazing kits?

crazypj · « **Reply #34 on:** September 29, 2013, 11:17:25 AM »

Cut around just 'forward' of the end cap and have some alloy 'tips' made.
The tail ends will probably be too thin to do anything with.
They are repairable, but the labour time needed will be close to buying a new set

edwardmorris · « **Reply #35 on:** September 30, 2013, 09:42:57 AM »

Quote from: crazypj on September 29, 2013, 11:17:25 AM

Cut around just 'forward' of the end cap and have some alloy 'tips' made.
The tail ends will probably be too thin to do anything with.
They are repairable, but the labour time needed will be close to buying a new set

Probably something to do as a last resort, my local car mech suggested cutting off the tips as well. I'll keep searching for a better set and keep asking around if a weld shop will help out. Bunch of guys suggested trying in Wisconsin, which isn't the easiest thing, but apparently there are a lot more people out there who recognize and appreciate the 750s (very interesting).

Tews19 · « **Reply #36 on:** September 30, 2013, 10:03:30 AM »

Did you ever contact the seller? I would be #$%*ing at him non stop for stating pipes had only 1 small hole... What's his name? I think for all your effort a Brimmer is in order for such a dishonest seller....

edwardmorris · « **Reply #37 on:** September 30, 2013, 12:10:44 PM »

Quote from: Tews19 on September 30, 2013, 10:03:30 AM

Did you ever contact the seller? I would be #$%*ing at him non stop for stating pipes had only 1 small hole... What's his name? I think for all your effort a Brimmer is in order for such a dishonest seller....

I did, some hilbilly militia type jackass who was taking a rather roudy tone so just had to let it go. Have the phone num, but never got a name. This is what he emailed me when I asked pix of damage. As you can see, I was elated that it was just one pipe. The poor old folk who went and picked them up for me didn't do much, they were annoyed as it is for having to drive out so far.

Tews19 · « **Reply #38 on:** September 30, 2013, 12:29:28 PM »

Holy #$%*, that is nutz! I went through the thread again and looked at the pics you took.... Man....... That is horrible.....

edwardmorris · « **Reply #39 on:** October 07, 2013, 10:35:59 AM »

Finally, a fab shop 35miles away has agreed to take a look and see what they can do, but I'm not sure when their workload will get light enough for them to call me to bring them in. In the meantime, any recommendations on how to clean the carbon build up in the pipes, especially towards the baffle plates? I've searched and searched and two things came up, caustic soda from Lowe's or an oven cleaner from pretty much anywhere. Either of these safe to try on such old pipes? I know caustic soda eats up aluminum but these pipes aren't made of that so I'm hoping I can get them to breathe a little better after cleaning. As for the rust, I'm thinking this might be worthwile, unless the experts disagree...http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-w-spray-nozzle-qt.html

mcpuffett · « **Reply #40 on:** October 07, 2013, 01:58:26 PM »

Might be better to braze the patches on, brass should probably last longer than beef

my spelling is bad

edwardmorris · « **Reply #41 on:** October 09, 2013, 10:22:24 AM »

Weld shop called and said they're done, not sure what to expect but I'm hoping its good news, and the bill won't kill me....pix as soon as I pick them up and get home...

nccb · « **Reply #42 on:** October 09, 2013, 10:37:19 AM »

can't wait to see those things.

mono · « **Reply #43 on:** October 09, 2013, 10:51:31 AM »

there's really no point in trying to de-rust the insise of the pipes, and any of the "rust-preventer" treatments aren't going to last because of the high heat (they are made for clean metal applications, mostly. your pipes go through such extreme heating/cooling cycles that rust is going to form on them/in them no matter what you do, and continue to catalyze. I think, if anything, the carbon buildup in the pipes is probably the best thing for preventing rust inside the pipes.

edwardmorris · « **Reply #44 on:** October 09, 2013, 02:17:06 PM »

I was thinking about this one specifically,

http://www.amazon.com/Eastwood-Temperature-Internal-Exhaust-Coating/dp/B005VPPIQA

thoughts?

edwardmorris · « **Reply #45 on:** October 09, 2013, 09:08:00 PM »

Here they are, pardon the crappy editing. Some before and after shots. Looks like the old guy did well on the visible sides, but not so great on the not so visible and under sides.

What should I have paid for this work? Trying to figure out if I was ripped off and re-evaluate my bargaining skills.

Tews19 · « **Reply #46 on:** October 09, 2013, 09:12:00 PM »

No clue on welding skills as I have never welded. They do look a lot better then previously. I wouldn't worry to much about the bottom side as no one really crawls under a bike to look at the pipes unless you are selling or in a competition.

nccb · « **Reply #47 on:** October 10, 2013, 03:45:57 AM »

Those things look a hell of a lot better. I'm glad you were able to get these things fixed.

Tews19 · « **Reply #48 on:** October 10, 2013, 06:27:56 AM »

Make a new thread inquiring on the welds and cost.... What did it end up costing you?

mono · « **Reply #49 on:** October 10, 2013, 07:51:25 AM »

Quote from: edwardmorris on October 09, 2013, 02:17:06 PM

I was thinking about this one specifically,

http://www.amazon.com/Eastwood-Temperature-Internal-Exhaust-Coating/dp/B005VPPIQA

thoughts?

Oh neat - didn't know they had a high-temp version (I've used the regular stuff for the inside of a car chassis). Judging from the website, it sounds like you need to de-rust the inside of the pipes 1st using another product:

(from Eastwood's FAQ)
Q: What if my header is used, how do I get the Rust out?
A: Use Eastwood's Gel Rust Dissolver 12096/12097

News:

Author Topic: HM341 Preservation: WAS: Baffle/stuck steel wool removal (Read 11322 times)