Author Topic: Polishing Aluminum  (Read 4195 times)

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Offline wvshooter

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Polishing Aluminum
« on: September 19, 2013, 09:20:25 PM »
I've removed my alternator cover, clutch cover and shift lever cover and have been trying to polish them to a bright luster. I've tried all the usual methods.

Wet sanding works but takes forever and you're messing with water. Dry sanding loads up the paper and takes forever. Scotchbrite pads can be used dry but they also take forever. The finest texture 2" Roloc disc chucked in an electric drill or pneumatic die grinder is way too aggressive for what's needed. Going directly to a 6" spiral sewn polishing wheel on a bench grinder doesn't work either because it can't remove scratches and nicks or minor corrosion.

To go from dull to a fine luster in a hurry I found a 3M Cut and Polish disc is almost like magic. http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?PRODUCT_ID=CPD3  Chucked up in a floor model drill press set on a high speed the 3M disc will produce a satin finish on aluminum fast. No fine scratches, just a nice soft clean satin finish. Of course, the final step for a chrome like finish is the spiral sewn buffing wheel on the bench grinder and MAAS Metal polish over that.
« Last Edit: September 19, 2013, 09:27:38 PM by wvshooter »

Nic

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Re: Polishing Aluminum
« Reply #1 on: September 19, 2013, 09:53:56 PM »
I go with dry sanding, alt cover is the hardest to do though and depending on the condition you could be there all day. On my basket case the alt cover had so many dings, I sanded it first up with 120, I did two long sessions and then just resolved that the dings were too deep.
If you only have a ding here n there start with the white 120 paper and a cork block on it's edge, if you only have light scratches start with 240 or 280, then 600, you can buff from 600 but if you go from 600 to 1000 or 1200 you'll have better shine.
The main thing when buffing is to have your bench grinder or buffer secured to a bench that won't move so you can really push hard on the wheel, do it in short bursts, the motor will slow down, if it doesn't you ain't pushing hard enough, do it in short bursts of about a second at a time, let the motor regain full speed then do it again. Start with the stitched buffer and course compound. Then go with soft leaf buffer and fine, pushing hard with the fine as well. You'll get it looking chrome like. I haven't found any easier way to do it unless you have a linisher to do the sanding.
Here's a rear brake arm I did by hand sanding, started with dremil and then sanding as above. It's made of steel of course which is even harder to do than alloy but this is how it should look. This arm would have taken me a good day's work to do so that'll give you an idea of the commitment required :o Of course a Bourbon break here n there helped.
« Last Edit: September 19, 2013, 10:04:35 PM by Nic »

Offline wvshooter

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Re: Polishing Aluminum
« Reply #2 on: September 19, 2013, 10:32:36 PM »
Here's a rear brake arm I did by hand sanding, started with dremil and then sanding as above. It's made of steel of course which is even harder to do than alloy but this is how it should look. This arm would have taken me a good day's work to do so that'll give you an idea of the commitment required

That's amazing.

Nic

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Re: Polishing Aluminum
« Reply #3 on: September 20, 2013, 12:55:15 AM »
What, the result or the commitment
Thanks all the same.

Offline jamesb

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Re: Polishing Aluminum
« Reply #4 on: September 20, 2013, 04:12:39 AM »
To get you a harbor frieght bench polisher. I did all my covers in one day plus fork legs. The only thing is you need to get the clear coat off after  that its easy.
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Offline greenjeans

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Re: Polishing Aluminum
« Reply #5 on: September 20, 2013, 09:08:33 AM »
Anybody ever seen a scotchbrite wheel that you could mount on a buffer ?
Yep, I'm the kid that figured out how to put things back together...eventually.

Offline Sprocket75

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Re: Polishing Aluminum
« Reply #6 on: September 20, 2013, 09:17:09 AM »
Anybody ever seen a scotchbrite wheel that you could mount on a buffer ?

YES! HF sells them in two different grits for $10 each. They work great for just about anything. I used to flip houses and man those things will clean porcelain like nothing else!
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Offline wvshooter

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Re: Polishing Aluminum
« Reply #7 on: September 21, 2013, 09:31:41 AM »
If you want a mirror/chrome finish on aluminum the 3M Cut and Polish Disc from ATS mentioned in my post above http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?PRODUCT_ID=CPD3 can make it happen with unbelievable ease. BTW, I have no connection to 3M, I just like a great product.

The 3M wheel, preferably chucked in a high speed drill press, makes short work of clear coat and crud and will take out scratches and blemishes easily. It leaves a satin finish. Take this satin finish to your bench grinder mounting a 6" spiral sewn wheel loaded with the finest cutting compound. My craftsman wheel kit describes the red rouge colored compound as appropriate for "bright luster on silver plate, gold, sterling or other precious metals." A mirror finish can be achieved quickly. I follow this up with MAAS Metal Polish but any similar quality product will offer the brightest shine and decent protection.

No more wet sanding or sandpaper for that matter. Easy peasey and fast.
« Last Edit: September 21, 2013, 08:37:01 PM by wvshooter »

Offline Stev-o

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Re: Polishing Aluminum
« Reply #8 on: September 21, 2013, 04:14:42 PM »
Hey shooter - very interested in this process, have a sorry looking set of forks.

Got pics?
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Offline wvshooter

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Re: Polishing Aluminum
« Reply #9 on: September 21, 2013, 08:25:30 PM »
Hey shooter - very interested in this process, have a sorry looking set of forks.

Got pics?

Sorry, no pics, but if a mirror finish is what you want this method will get you there a lot quicker than anything else. I have nothing against using wet sanding or any other method but if something does a perfect job and is much much quicker and much easier as well... Your time is worth something and why make something hard work when you don't have to?

The 3M wheel is about $14 and has a Roloc type coupling built into it. Naturally you will need a Roloc type arbor if you don't already have one. I noticed the ATS web site list the arbor on the same page as the wheel for $24. Pricey for an arbor but it can be used with any Roloc surface conditioning product. Small sandpaper discs for example or the red, brown or blue 1/4 inch thick round pads. Regarding the price, the arbor and the 3M wheel are top quality items. The wheel will wear down after several hours of use but I'm sure one wheel would do at least two bikes. I used my wheel a bunch on aircraft aluminum before I ever started on the bike parts.

Harbor freight sells the Roloc pads and sanding discs and I'm sure HF also sells an arbor but I don't know about the quality of their arbor. It might be just fine.
« Last Edit: September 21, 2013, 08:34:46 PM by wvshooter »

Nic

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Re: Polishing Aluminum
« Reply #10 on: September 21, 2013, 08:29:36 PM »
I'd definitely give that a go but with shipping to Oz added it'll be a long time before I get one. I did an ebay search and nada.

Offline SohRon

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Re: Polishing Aluminum
« Reply #11 on: September 22, 2013, 07:58:27 AM »
Quote
The 3M wheel, preferably chucked in a high speed drill press, makes short work of clear coat and crud and will take out scratches and blemishes easily. It leaves a satin finish.


When you say it leaves a "satin" finish, just wondering if this is similar to the oem finish originally found on these parts?  The original finish is actually more difficult to reproduce than a mirror finish, so always looking for something that will help accomplish that.

Thanks for the tip!
« Last Edit: September 22, 2013, 08:05:58 AM by SohRon »
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