Author Topic: 1976 CB500/550 Project "Squirrel" (Read 280950 times)

rb550four · « **Reply #25 on:** October 15, 2013, 03:28:15 PM »

I think as long as there are no broken parts and everything else including the kit parts fit and seal well, I don't see any reason why you can't run that carb till it breaks, in the meanwhile, should one become available pic it up for the day that it fails.
I'm having #4 069A issues now , mine looks similar but has broken/missing cast members, so it's not going back together again. #4 seems to be a common failure for some reason.
I like the replacement parts that you fabbed,can't see any reason why they should work, good deal.
Oh and all the clogged parts that you are finding during cleaning, doesn't it make you wonder why it would even run in the first place?

riverfever · « **Reply #26 on:** October 15, 2013, 05:35:09 PM »

So far this has been a pretty amazing/eye opening experience just with the opening up and taking apart the one carb. My job is really stressful but it's been fun to go in the garage for an hour in the evenings and work a bit and have a beer to just unwind. That idle jet was completely clogged and took quite a bit of poking before stuff started coming out so I can't imagine any fuel was getting through it. I honestly didn't even know if it had a hole in it at all. I'll be interested to see what the other parts look like in comparison to the ones from this carb.

riverfever · « **Reply #27 on:** October 18, 2013, 09:58:06 AM »

I got the rebuild kits last night and am starting to put the #4 back together.

Kits came with 100 mains and 38 idles. Looks like the mains in the carbs were 100 and 40. Is it ok that these idles are so different in size? I know that's a stupid question but is it just because they are different numbers/sizes? Should I use the 38's or stay with the 40's?

Mixture screw backed out 1.5 turns. Float set at 22. Just need to put the needle and valve back in and this one should be done.

Bankerdanny · « **Reply #28 on:** October 18, 2013, 10:02:16 AM »

As a general rule I don't trust any carb brass that isn't factory Honda or made by the carb manufacturer.

iron_worker · « **Reply #29 on:** October 18, 2013, 10:02:41 AM »

I have heard of people having tuning issues with those shorty idles. If you originals are clean and clear and not too mangled then I would run them.

IW

riverfever · « **Reply #30 on:** October 18, 2013, 11:26:13 AM »

I didn't like the way it looked so I ended up reusing the factory slow jet. 4 is back together and now I'm working on 3 and 2. Thanks.

riverfever · « **Reply #31 on:** October 18, 2013, 06:07:27 PM »

Well I had to pull the bowl back off the #4 carb about 3 times but it's all done now.

This is #3 going back together. So far so good.

Until this happened.

So I'm planning on carefully drilling this broken bolt out and then chasing the thread with a tap and then getting a new bolt. The bolt went in straight so I'm not sure what the hell happened.

riverfever · « **Reply #32 on:** October 19, 2013, 11:10:12 AM »

After breaking 2 bolt extractors I decided to just re-drill the hole and tap it to 5mm and use a new bolt. Should work ok. Here's a question, up to this point (for carbs 3 and 4) I did not remove the emulsifier tubes when soaking. I just realized this and removed the one from #2 which is now soaking. Is this going to be a problem?

riverfever · « **Reply #33 on:** October 19, 2013, 05:25:23 PM »

Ha...well I decided to take apart the other 2 that I forgot to pull the emulsifier tubes from. Good thing. They were nasty but cleaned up well. I also realized that I had put the throttle linkage on 180 out on #3. So 4, 3, and 2 are good to go. I took apart #1 and cleaned the body and was about to put it back together when I realized the float is cracked on one side. It would probably be ok but I might as well try to find another on ebay.

Mcwilliams570 · « **Reply #34 on:** October 19, 2013, 07:41:04 PM »

If you cant find that float hit me up I should have a few extra ones out in the garage.

Matt

Damage Inc · « **Reply #35 on:** October 20, 2013, 04:08:16 AM »

Got to love a thread with heaps of carby pics. Keep up the good work, I'm a keen observer.

riverfever · « **Reply #36 on:** October 20, 2013, 12:36:32 PM »

Time for the weekend update. So I completely pulled apart all of the carbs again because of the emulsifier tubes. Here's one of them. Pretty nasty but they cleaned up well. Holes look good. This one was before being cleaned.

My OCD kicked in a bit and I decided to make up another one of the washer/dust shield pieces. Test fits seem like they'll be just fine.

A shot of the bike as it's been sitting.

And how the carbs look as of now. Still looking for a float for that #1 carb so I'm at a stand still until then.

So I have a few questions. There is a small section of fuel line between 3 and 4 and again between 1 and 2. I am going to replace that while I'm this far. I replaced all of the o-rings on both t fittings (I found some that were really close at the hardware store and am hoping they will do the trick). I know the smaller conical spacer that is sitting between 2 and 3 went between those carbs. Were there others (or should there be others) between the rest or is that it? I'm pretty sure the mounting plate keeps the others where they need to be but wanted to check. I found the larger conical spacer on the floor while sweeping up yesterday but don't recall it being from the carbs.

riverfever · « **Reply #37 on:** October 20, 2013, 06:20:35 PM »

Another question.

If you look in this photo, between carbs 2 and 3, there are 2 90 degree fittings. What are those? This is a picture from when I first pulled them off the bike. There was nothing there and the fittings don't look like there has ever been anything there.

Damage Inc · « **Reply #38 on:** October 20, 2013, 09:06:28 PM »

I thought that's were the gas goes in. But I don't trust my opinion as I'm a noob.

riverfever · « **Reply #39 on:** October 21, 2013, 04:57:46 AM »

I think fuel supply and return lines are at the 1/4 inch t fittings. These are 1/& inch and look like they've never been used.

rb550four · « **Reply #40 on:** October 24, 2013, 03:17:51 PM »

The fuel lines, they go to the 2 "T"s that you replaced between 1&2, and 3&4, That is 7mm fuel line, hard to find around here in rubber so I use clear /tinted 7mm fuel line that would normally be found at snowmobile shops.
The other 2 openings that you had in the pic between 2&3 as far as I know takes 2 8inch tubes and hangs out around the aircleaner box not connected to anything else, does not return fuel up to the tank, just hangs out in space just below the carb bowls.
All the bikes I ever had came that way and were rebuilt that way I never questioned why, just did it, maybe someone here can explain their reason for being , I can't say that I've ever thought about them before.

riverfever · « **Reply #41 on:** October 24, 2013, 07:46:19 PM »

That's what I thought. I ordered all new lines from DCC with the carb kits so I'll get those taken care of. Just didn't notice them during the tear down. I haven't gotten a whole lot done this past week because I'm waiting on a float to arrive so I can get that last carb together and bench sync them (thanks again Matt). As I kept looking at the front end of the bike (I seem to be working from the front to the back) I kept coming back to the really nasty master cylinder cover. It was really scratched and the finish looked horrible. So I decided to work on it this week. It's almost done.

Still might sand it out a bit more and then buff it out. Now I wish I had been able to paint the master cylinder and caliper but it's getting too cold up here.

riverfever · « **Reply #42 on:** October 24, 2013, 07:48:26 PM »

Mcwilliams570 · « **Reply #43 on:** October 25, 2013, 08:37:27 AM »

Looking good..

Matt

riverfever · « **Reply #44 on:** October 25, 2013, 06:10:33 PM »

MC cap is done.

Also started sketching lines for knee dents. I think this one I ended up with flows well with the tank shape but I've never done this before. Thoughts?

rb550four · « **Reply #45 on:** October 26, 2013, 04:07:19 PM »

I like the line but,I think that it is too far forward, you may be getting into that recess that mounts the HONDA logo on the tank. It's a recessed bend and will be plenty hard or maybe not even possible to make that work, infact I think they'll be a good chance of wasting that tank if you don't push the line back.

kammery · « **Reply #46 on:** October 26, 2013, 04:32:55 PM »

Those two 90 degree pipes are float bowl vents . Put a hose on each on of them .Make sure the pipe is clear . there is a crossover tube between #1 & #2 and between #3 & #4 carb . The hose runs down .

riverfever · « **Reply #47 on:** October 26, 2013, 06:09:47 PM »

Matt, that's exactly what I was worried about. I don't know why the left side looks different than the right where that badge mounts but it does and the right side had me re-thinking the shape. Here's a pic of that side.

So this is probably a bad idea. Should I reshape it so that the line is 1/4" away from the mount?

Mcwilliams570 · « **Reply #48 on:** October 26, 2013, 09:16:56 PM »

Look at a cb500t tank what I used on my last project very little to do to get it mounted and looks nice has the slight indents already.

Matt

cb500t tank

one I used on the last project

And done..

thirsty 1 · « **Reply #49 on:** October 26, 2013, 09:24:19 PM »

That looks real nice! good work!

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Author Topic: 1976 CB500/550 Project "Squirrel" (Read 280950 times)