Author Topic: 1976 CB500/550 Project "Squirrel" (Read 286454 times)

2strokeTrush · « **Reply #250 on:** April 28, 2014, 08:54:07 PM »

Quote from: riverfever on April 28, 2014, 08:03:22 PM

Tonight I noticed that there isn't much difference in the new tail light with the lights on and when hitting the brakes. With the stock light the difference was much more noticeable. The light I installed is not an LED. What might cause this?

Wires backwards ?

riverfever · « **Reply #251 on:** April 29, 2014, 06:28:15 AM »

I'll check the wires again when I get home tonight but this issue is the same with either brake. Strange. The gigantic stock light works like a second sun.

riverfever · « **Reply #252 on:** April 29, 2014, 05:49:50 PM »

Figured out the brake light issue. The second filament was not getting lit in the new light but that bulb works fine in the stock light. Ended up taking the light apart and found a shady connection internally. Thanks everyone.

riverfever · « **Reply #253 on:** May 05, 2014, 07:48:59 PM »

I still haven't vacuum synced the carbs yet but I'm going to hold off on that until I get another issue sorted out and that's really weak spark. The motor still runs very rich. I can smell it and when I pull the plugs they are soaked with fuel. Tonight I checked the coils and they seem good (both tested right at 4.6 ohms). The wires are in really bad shape though. Badly dry rotted and 2 and 3 came apart at the boot. Using an inline spark tester showed very weak spark. So I guess I have a few options.

1. Use wire splicers and put in new wire and boots. This seems like it would be a great idea if I was looking to turn this bike around and sell it quickly but that's not really the case here.

2. Buy stock coils (saw them on 4 into 1) for about $100 and new boots. Probably not as bad an option as #1 but then I may have to worry about this issue later on down the road again.

3. By Dyna coils (again saw them on 4 into 1) for about $150 and get new wires and boots for #175ish and probably have a more reliable setup with some longevity. Is this about right? Am I also correct in assuming that this improved spark will make quite a bit of difference in motor performance because the hotter/better spark will burn more fuel and maybe I won't be having a rich condition anymore? Again...still learning so sorry for the stupid questions.

Tews19 · « **Reply #254 on:** May 07, 2014, 08:59:17 PM »

Get dyna 5 ohm coils on ebay. Should be 115.

riverfever · « **Reply #255 on:** May 08, 2014, 07:51:06 PM »

These are the ones I was going to get.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dynatek-Coil-5-ohm-Dual-Output-Coil-Honda-CB500-CB550-CB-350-400-500-550-69-78-/140792245936?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20c7df2eb0&vxp=mtr

These are the wires I am looking at getting.

http://www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDetails.aspx?itemDescription=Dyna+Ignition+Wires+8mm+suppression+core+%28grey%29&item=DYDW800

Can I run the boots that come with these wires? I'll also get fresh plugs. Thanks.

Sami1987 · « **Reply #256 on:** May 09, 2014, 01:13:08 PM »

Did you trim the plug wires and ohm out
Plug caps? Stock caps are 5 ohm.
I trimmed my wires and it was a little
Miracle.

riverfever · « **Reply #257 on:** May 17, 2014, 07:26:41 AM »

It's snowed almost every day here for the last week so I haven't been doing too much. The school year is winding down as well and things have been busy so I haven't even ordered parts yet. With not much else to do, I did start trying to repair the stock side covers. I know this repair will not improve the old, tired plastic but it'll buy me a bit of time and it was fun to try. First I filled in the badge holes.

The right side wasn't in too bad of shape. My idea was to use thick staples to brace the crack. I heated them up and buried them about halfway through the plastic.

Then I took plastic from another destroyed side cover, melted it and pushed it down into the void where each staple went in. I clipped the staples off and then ground them smooth with a Dremel, sanded the new plastic down, and used a bit of filler.

The left side cover was in really bad shape but I should have it done today. At least the covers will now match the tank while I figure out paint. I'll order new rubber grommets and that should make installing/removing these a bit easier.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #258 on:** May 17, 2014, 05:34:58 PM »

Looks like "Frankenstein's" neck!

Those old covers are brittle bastards. I hope the "fix" works. I would suggest that you reinforce it with fiberglass on the inside of the cover.

riverfever · « **Reply #259 on:** May 17, 2014, 06:59:41 PM »

It really does look nasty. Reminds me of one of my pups who tore her ACL las year.

They turned out pretty good.

I even got out for a little ride tonight.

riverfever · « **Reply #260 on:** May 20, 2014, 02:47:26 PM »

I spoke with Z1 Enterprises just now about the ignition parts. The person I spoke with told me NOT to get the NGK plug caps but to run the boots that come on the Dyna wires instead. He said that the NGK caps will provide too much resistance and cause the motor to run like crap. The caps I was going to get were the XD05F (102*) and the VD05F (120*). Can someone please clear this up for me?

rb550four · « **Reply #261 on:** May 20, 2014, 07:00:10 PM »

If the boots are already on the wires, why not run them? if it runs crappy put on your old boots, if that runs crappy ,get the other set. Well that's what I would do for comparison s sake .should be interesting.

riverfever · « **Reply #262 on:** May 30, 2014, 07:51:06 PM »

I stopped and got 4 new spark plugs on the way home today and the Dyna coils and wires showed up tonight. Looks like I have to modify the stock mount a bit but nothing bad. It looks like it doesn't matter where I connect the white/black, yellow and blue wires to the new coils. Can anyone confirm this? I will probably mount the yellow and blue wires in the same location (top or bottom of the coil) on their respective sides.

Tews19 · « **Reply #263 on:** May 30, 2014, 07:56:18 PM »

When I did my set up it didn't matter.

riverfever · « **Reply #264 on:** May 31, 2014, 12:39:10 PM »

Finished up the install on the coils, plugs and wires. Wow did that ever make a huge difference. #4 is hot now. It starts better, idles better, and runs better. Now the carbs need to be synced.

riverfever · « **Reply #265 on:** May 31, 2014, 03:16:15 PM »

I'm really impressed with this thing (being 40+ years old and all). It's certainly no modern sport bike but it looks nice, gets a lot of attention in the neighborhood and is fun to ride. I am registering for my safety class tonight and will take that after school gets out for the summer next week. Then I need to get my tires, registration, and a helmet.

riverfever · « **Reply #266 on:** May 31, 2014, 10:03:37 PM »

Tonight I cleaned up a milk crate and was playing around with mounting it on the seat so that I can have a way to carry my waders and boots the short distance to the river just outside of town. I know this does not look great but it's only going to be on the bike when I want to ride to the river. I primed it and painted it black and it helped out a bit. Paints drying now.

riverfever · « **Reply #267 on:** June 01, 2014, 08:35:03 AM »

Here's the most current picture I have.

I ordered those decals a while ago but I liked the ideas that we came up with much more so these are just on their temporarily.

riverfever · « **Reply #268 on:** June 01, 2014, 08:54:18 PM »

Today I went back to the wiring I had previously done for the new left control. If you recall, I did not wire up turn signals because I didn't have any yet and I also did not wire up the kill switch. Now that I have new coils, I figured I'd go back and tackle the kill switch. I'm using a control that I got from Dime City. What's funky is that when I hook up a meter to the wires it shows that the kill switch in the control is opposite of what I need it to be. If I wire it up, it would mean that the bike would only run with the kill switch held on. If I'm reading the schematic correctly it looks like I would need a kill switch that is normally closed and this one appears to be open. I'll call DCC in the morning and see if they can be of any help.

riverfever · « **Reply #269 on:** June 02, 2014, 04:00:38 PM »

This particular switch does not have a RUN or OFF position. When I tested it with the meter, I made sure it was with switched power. Still seems to be opposite of what I need. Haven't heard back from DCC yet.

Mcwilliams570 · « **Reply #270 on:** June 02, 2014, 04:35:32 PM »

Bike looks great man good job..

Matt

riverfever · « **Reply #271 on:** June 06, 2014, 07:06:48 PM »

I believe the bike has 2 issues right now. One is that it's blowing smoke. Cal already kinda walked me through what I should do on that one. I will do another compression test and add oil to each cylinder and see what the readings are. The other issue deals with the carbs (I think). The bike runs poorly and will fall on its face and even die at times. I still have not vacuum synced the carbs and that could be the issue but I also think it might be a jetting or other issue with the internal settings. I still have not installed the factory main jets or needles but plan on doing so very soon now that school is out for the summer. I will leave the needle settings the same and also install new o rings under the intake and see if that helps. I'll report back but if anyone has any more guidance I'd appreciate it.

riverfever · « **Reply #272 on:** June 12, 2014, 08:58:24 PM »

I wanted to update this thread with some new information. I pulled Cal away from a soccer game earlier today to quiz him on some things and gain some knowledge and figured I'd throw it on here too. The bike has been running really poor lately. Cylinder 4 is dead and power is wayyy down. The plug is soaked with gas. On a quick ride up the street today I noticed fuel weeping from the head gasket area at #4, blowing out of the breather tube at the top of the motor, and running out of a small hole (I think for condensation) in pipe #4 just before the muffler. Obviously, the plug was fouled out. Since I just installed Dyna coils, wires, and new plugs, I decided to look at the points. I tested the condensers and they tested out ok. I reset the points to .35mm and cleaned them with paper. The bike was a bear to start (turned over great) but finally did but had no spark at 4. I pulled 1 and also had no spark. I had helpers hold both plugs to the head while I manually opened up the points and closed them and I got great spark at both plugs. I then hit the start button and got nothing. After a bit of head scratching, I then used my fingers to put just a bit of pressure on the points and it helped. I got spark at the plugs. I reinstalled the plugs and did the same thing. It started but was rough. I removed the plugs again. I checked the resistance at both points and had upwards of 25-30 ohms when closed. I then took acetone and 1500 sandpaper and lightly sanded the points. I know this is not wise but I was looking to see if the resistance improved. It did (down to a bit over 1 ohm). Then I reinstalled the plugs and the motor started right up but #4 was still ice cold. Number 1 header was very hot so I pulled that plug. It was soaked as well. I cleaned it and swapped it to 4 and had no change. Dead. So at this point I think I'm dealing with cooked points. However, I'm also still looking at compression. So now I'm going to recheck compression in the morning (with and without oil) and see what the numbers are. Then I think I need to decide if I want to order cheap points to get me through the summer or just bite the bullet and go with Dyna ignition. I'd love any input/suggestions.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #273 on:** June 12, 2014, 10:22:52 PM »

Dyna and be done with points! I run Dyna 2000 systems on all of my CBs.

riverfever · « **Reply #274 on:** June 13, 2014, 03:13:26 PM »

OK so here's the results from the compression test with a warmed up motor.

With dry cylinders:
#1 114
#2 103
#3 105
#4 107

With a bit of oil in each cylinder:
#1 130
#2 121
#3 120
#4 128

I know these numbers are low and probably worthy of new rings but is this a motor that could likely be run this summer and then torn down in the fall? Also...when getting into this motor how much of a tear down would be recommended? Just rings and the top end (valves, guides, seals, etc.) or do I need to take apart the entire motor and deal with crank and bearingsm as well?

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Author Topic: 1976 CB500/550 Project "Squirrel" (Read 286454 times)