Author Topic: 1976 CB500/550 Project "Squirrel" (Read 279259 times)

calj737 · « **Reply #300 on:** May 09, 2014, 04:50:37 AM »

Those boots won't fit. You need 2 that are angled 45*. Look at your stock boots and you'll see what I mean.

Sami1987 · « **Reply #301 on:** May 09, 2014, 01:13:08 PM »

Did you trim the plug wires and ohm out
Plug caps? Stock caps are 5 ohm.
I trimmed my wires and it was a little
Miracle.

riverfever · « **Reply #302 on:** May 17, 2014, 07:26:41 AM »

It's snowed almost every day here for the last week so I haven't been doing too much. The school year is winding down as well and things have been busy so I haven't even ordered parts yet. With not much else to do, I did start trying to repair the stock side covers. I know this repair will not improve the old, tired plastic but it'll buy me a bit of time and it was fun to try. First I filled in the badge holes.

The right side wasn't in too bad of shape. My idea was to use thick staples to brace the crack. I heated them up and buried them about halfway through the plastic.

Then I took plastic from another destroyed side cover, melted it and pushed it down into the void where each staple went in. I clipped the staples off and then ground them smooth with a Dremel, sanded the new plastic down, and used a bit of filler.

The left side cover was in really bad shape but I should have it done today. At least the covers will now match the tank while I figure out paint. I'll order new rubber grommets and that should make installing/removing these a bit easier.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #303 on:** May 17, 2014, 05:34:58 PM »

Looks like "Frankenstein's" neck!

Those old covers are brittle bastards. I hope the "fix" works. I would suggest that you reinforce it with fiberglass on the inside of the cover.

riverfever · « **Reply #304 on:** May 17, 2014, 06:59:41 PM »

It really does look nasty. Reminds me of one of my pups who tore her ACL las year.

They turned out pretty good.

I even got out for a little ride tonight.

riverfever · « **Reply #305 on:** May 20, 2014, 02:47:26 PM »

I spoke with Z1 Enterprises just now about the ignition parts. The person I spoke with told me NOT to get the NGK plug caps but to run the boots that come on the Dyna wires instead. He said that the NGK caps will provide too much resistance and cause the motor to run like crap. The caps I was going to get were the XD05F (102*) and the VD05F (120*). Can someone please clear this up for me?

rb550four · « **Reply #306 on:** May 20, 2014, 07:00:10 PM »

If the boots are already on the wires, why not run them? if it runs crappy put on your old boots, if that runs crappy ,get the other set. Well that's what I would do for comparison s sake .should be interesting.

calj737 · « **Reply #307 on:** May 21, 2014, 04:58:10 AM »

Im running the Dyna caps and wires, Dyna coils (5.0 Ohm) and Dyna S ignition. Mine runs strong this way. Starts first time, every time.

If I ever get the wiring mess sorted (very close now) it should run even better....

riverfever · « **Reply #308 on:** May 30, 2014, 07:51:06 PM »

I stopped and got 4 new spark plugs on the way home today and the Dyna coils and wires showed up tonight. Looks like I have to modify the stock mount a bit but nothing bad. It looks like it doesn't matter where I connect the white/black, yellow and blue wires to the new coils. Can anyone confirm this? I will probably mount the yellow and blue wires in the same location (top or bottom of the coil) on their respective sides.

Tews19 · « **Reply #309 on:** May 30, 2014, 07:56:18 PM »

When I did my set up it didn't matter.

calj737 · « **Reply #310 on:** May 31, 2014, 08:01:33 AM »

Chris - the Dyna coils will mount up to the stock coil mounts. Check out this picture to see how to arrange them.

Blue wire from ignition goes to 1/4 coil, yellow to 2/3. Use the top post, bottom on both coils for 12v feed.

riverfever · « **Reply #311 on:** May 31, 2014, 12:39:10 PM »

Finished up the install on the coils, plugs and wires. Wow did that ever make a huge difference. #4 is hot now. It starts better, idles better, and runs better. Now the carbs need to be synced.

calj737 · « **Reply #312 on:** May 31, 2014, 01:18:03 PM »

It's funny how much these bikes enjoy proper ignition. Certainly points and stock coils and wires can deliver it too, but if yours are shot, an aftermarket system can be delightful also.

Now you'll be too busy riding that beauty to worry about painting it!

riverfever · « **Reply #313 on:** May 31, 2014, 03:16:15 PM »

I'm really impressed with this thing (being 40+ years old and all). It's certainly no modern sport bike but it looks nice, gets a lot of attention in the neighborhood and is fun to ride. I am registering for my safety class tonight and will take that after school gets out for the summer next week. Then I need to get my tires, registration, and a helmet.

riverfever · « **Reply #314 on:** May 31, 2014, 10:03:37 PM »

Tonight I cleaned up a milk crate and was playing around with mounting it on the seat so that I can have a way to carry my waders and boots the short distance to the river just outside of town. I know this does not look great but it's only going to be on the bike when I want to ride to the river. I primed it and painted it black and it helped out a bit. Paints drying now.

calj737 · « **Reply #315 on:** June 01, 2014, 04:58:17 AM »

There's much to like about your bike, Chris. Looks really good. Post up a picture of either side "without" the crate for references please.

Did you use some decals temporarily on the tank?

riverfever · « **Reply #316 on:** June 01, 2014, 08:35:03 AM »

Here's the most current picture I have.

I ordered those decals a while ago but I liked the ideas that we came up with much more so these are just on their temporarily.

riverfever · « **Reply #317 on:** June 01, 2014, 08:54:18 PM »

Today I went back to the wiring I had previously done for the new left control. If you recall, I did not wire up turn signals because I didn't have any yet and I also did not wire up the kill switch. Now that I have new coils, I figured I'd go back and tackle the kill switch. I'm using a control that I got from Dime City. What's funky is that when I hook up a meter to the wires it shows that the kill switch in the control is opposite of what I need it to be. If I wire it up, it would mean that the bike would only run with the kill switch held on. If I'm reading the schematic correctly it looks like I would need a kill switch that is normally closed and this one appears to be open. I'll call DCC in the morning and see if they can be of any help.

calj737 · « **Reply #318 on:** June 02, 2014, 05:02:37 AM »

The Kill switch should only be wired to "switched" power from your ignition circuit (key). Internally, the Kill switch is probably jumpered on an aftermarket model meaning that the live power goes to the switch, but in the "Stop" position, it's not feeding the bike. Move to "Run" and only then should you be detecting 12v from it.

As an FYI, Devin at Cognito has good, metal vintage controls that operate well and look period correct. I've got one on the left of my 550. Plus shipping is cheaper and faster. I've had hit/miss luck with some of huge stuff from DCC. Great guys, but lots of cheap parts.

riverfever · « **Reply #319 on:** June 02, 2014, 04:00:38 PM »

This particular switch does not have a RUN or OFF position. When I tested it with the meter, I made sure it was with switched power. Still seems to be opposite of what I need. Haven't heard back from DCC yet.

Mcwilliams570 · « **Reply #320 on:** June 02, 2014, 04:35:32 PM »

Bike looks great man good job..

Matt

riverfever · « **Reply #321 on:** June 06, 2014, 07:06:48 PM »

I believe the bike has 2 issues right now. One is that it's blowing smoke. Cal already kinda walked me through what I should do on that one. I will do another compression test and add oil to each cylinder and see what the readings are. The other issue deals with the carbs (I think). The bike runs poorly and will fall on its face and even die at times. I still have not vacuum synced the carbs and that could be the issue but I also think it might be a jetting or other issue with the internal settings. I still have not installed the factory main jets or needles but plan on doing so very soon now that school is out for the summer. I will leave the needle settings the same and also install new o rings under the intake and see if that helps. I'll report back but if anyone has any more guidance I'd appreciate it.

calj737 · « **Reply #322 on:** June 07, 2014, 04:24:07 AM »

A vacuum synch is mandatory before you attempt to tune a carb for proper running. Before you tear them apart, spray some aerosol around the intakes while the bike is running to attempt to identify a vacuum leak. The bike should alter it's idle when sprayed, the aerosol being introduced to the induction as a result of vacuum leak.

Intake rubbers and O-rings need to be in good "nick" to have your bike run well, so bear that in mind as you go.

riverfever · « **Reply #323 on:** June 12, 2014, 08:58:24 PM »

I wanted to update this thread with some new information. I pulled Cal away from a soccer game earlier today to quiz him on some things and gain some knowledge and figured I'd throw it on here too. The bike has been running really poor lately. Cylinder 4 is dead and power is wayyy down. The plug is soaked with gas. On a quick ride up the street today I noticed fuel weeping from the head gasket area at #4, blowing out of the breather tube at the top of the motor, and running out of a small hole (I think for condensation) in pipe #4 just before the muffler. Obviously, the plug was fouled out. Since I just installed Dyna coils, wires, and new plugs, I decided to look at the points. I tested the condensers and they tested out ok. I reset the points to .35mm and cleaned them with paper. The bike was a bear to start (turned over great) but finally did but had no spark at 4. I pulled 1 and also had no spark. I had helpers hold both plugs to the head while I manually opened up the points and closed them and I got great spark at both plugs. I then hit the start button and got nothing. After a bit of head scratching, I then used my fingers to put just a bit of pressure on the points and it helped. I got spark at the plugs. I reinstalled the plugs and did the same thing. It started but was rough. I removed the plugs again. I checked the resistance at both points and had upwards of 25-30 ohms when closed. I then took acetone and 1500 sandpaper and lightly sanded the points. I know this is not wise but I was looking to see if the resistance improved. It did (down to a bit over 1 ohm). Then I reinstalled the plugs and the motor started right up but #4 was still ice cold. Number 1 header was very hot so I pulled that plug. It was soaked as well. I cleaned it and swapped it to 4 and had no change. Dead. So at this point I think I'm dealing with cooked points. However, I'm also still looking at compression. So now I'm going to recheck compression in the morning (with and without oil) and see what the numbers are. Then I think I need to decide if I want to order cheap points to get me through the summer or just bite the bullet and go with Dyna ignition. I'd love any input/suggestions.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #324 on:** June 12, 2014, 10:22:52 PM »

Dyna and be done with points! I run Dyna 2000 systems on all of my CBs.

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Author Topic: 1976 CB500/550 Project "Squirrel" (Read 279259 times)