Topic: 1976 CB500/550 Project "Squirrel"

[riverfever]

Oh yeah I guess that is the clutch cover. When you talk about adjusting the clutch, you're NOT talking about simply adjusting the cable and that mechanism on the left side are you but more the actual guts of the clutch? If so, I don't think I want anything to do with that right now. I'm sure the clutch could use a cleaning or even replacement. It works quite well when cold but when hot it becomes a tad finicky when leaving from a stop. It's fine while going through the gears. Not sure how to describe it. The manual talks about slipping and dragging. I don't think it's a slip. I've had that stator cover off before but wasn't sure how to get the internals out of it so I could polish it up. Are they held on internally with bolts?

Being a new rider, I thought a full face was a good decision. I've had plenty of bugs hit me while cycling but I'd hate to wreck this thing after taking a june bug to the forehead at 55.

And I'm always on my best behavior when I'm on vacation.

[Stev-o]

 I've had that stator cover off before but wasn't sure how to get the internals out of it so I could polish it up. Are they held on internally with bolts?

Yes, there are three machine screws holding the stator in place.  An impact driver is a must to remove these.

[MickB]

Riverfever I was thinking about your ideas on how to carry your rods and fishing gear.

Why not have 2 wicker baskets one on each side instead of panniers. Or better still a couple of cray pots. Lol. I'm laughing just thinking about it.

It'd give it a real  authentic look.

Don't forget a height light if you strap on a few beach rods they're around 14'  high.





Regards

Mick

[riverfever]

While creels might look cool, I don't know that they would be all that sturdy. To simply buzz out of town a few miles to fish isn't that big of a deal. I never fish without a backpack and it actually holds the rod once it's broken down and safely inside the rod tube. The tube then attaches to the outside of the pack and is only a bit over 3' in length. I also have another bag designed to hold the waders and boots that could easily be lashed to the seat behind me.

The idea for carrying the dry roll bags on the sides of the bike was to hold more camping gear. I don't have my spreadsheets for gear handy (I used to be very serious as an endurance mountain biker so I wanted to know weights of my gear to the ounce) but my bivy, bag, and pad (good to 32 degrees) is right at 3 pounds. Stove, gas and ti pot is half a pound. I used to be able to be totally set for a week in the mountains with 35 pounds of gear (and 24 of that was my mountain bike). I really don't know that the weight of what I bring is going to throw off the balance of the bike but I do plan on balancing it out between each side as much as possible. This is my bike for the 2012 Colorado Trail Race (a little over 500 miles of single track).

[MickB]

Bolt the motor into that, you'll win the race for sure.

Mick



Regards

Mick

[MickB]

Good luck in the extreme race, it'd be easier on the 500.



Regards

Mick

[MickB]

Just remember Deliverance, out there in the bad lands.



Regards

Mick

[riverfever]

G'day. I don't ride the mountain bike any longer. That was the reason I started thinking about carrying the bags in the first place.

[riverfever]

OK so I screwed up fairly well today. I was going to put the stock brass back in the carbs (main jets and needles). When I started to take them apart I was trying to do it in a way where I didn't have to take them entirely apart like I did when I rebuilt them. My idea was to remove them from the main shaft that the slides all rotate on. While doing that, I broke one of the areas where that shaft slides through on the aluminum back plate (that all 4 carbs are screwed to). Here's a picture.



Here's another shot. I think I would have been ok had I driven the shaft out the other way but it's done and now I just need to fix it. I don't even know for sure if I have all of the pieces that broke. There appears to be a brass bushing inside the aluminum and it broke also.



So...does anyone have one of these they would be willing to sell me please??

[harisuluv]

That main shaft is not something that is meant to come apart.  This is because there is a pressed in pin that is holds the main shaft from moving side to side.  Otherwise, you wouldn't be able to sync then properly because it would be shifting horizontally and the sync would be constantly changing.  There is a groove on one side of the rod that goes all the way around it.  The pin fits in there and locks it into place.

That is why it broke.  Looks like you tried to hammer it out, and the metal gave way.  If it wasn't moving, then it was probably functional with a pin still in place.  You need a new plate which I can get you, that's not a problem.  However, you still need to drill out the old pin and then machine a new one and tap it in. 

Like I said that's not meant to be or necessary to take apart unless it's already broken and has too much play in it.

[riverfever]

Here are some more pictures of the damage along with some more stupid questions.

James...if you have a plate that will work I would really appreciate the help. I know you said the pin is likely gone but I don't even see where it might have gone. I'm sorry. I know this is a pain to explain on the phone/web. If your stay plate has the shaft on it, then I'm stuck figuring out how to get it through the pieces that my thumb and figure are on? What I was trying to ask on the phone is...since that shaft is not supposed to be removed, are you going to leave those 2 pieces that attach to the shaft and then I'll swap them out with the ones on my carbs (that's the only way I see it happening)? Again...sorry. 





Is this the pin you're talking about (in the center of that portion that broke)?



Picture of the shaft and the metal key (there's one on each end).



This move is right up there with punching my own hole in the tank.

[riverfever]

I'm guessing I need exactly what's pictured on the bottom?

[Stev-o]

You may want to consider sending your carbs to Haris and let him rebuild them for you. 

[riverfever]

Why Steve?

[Stev-o]

Why Steve?

Thought you might need some help?

[riverfever]

Thanks for the PM Steve. I sent you one back man. James was nice enough to talk with me tonight for a bit about this latest issue. I rebuilt these carbs in the winter and it made a huge difference. If I can find a new stay plate I think things will be good. Thanks again for the suggestion. Sometimes this project seems too much and today was one of those days.

[riverfever]

Huge thank you to Hairsuluv for selling me a carb stay plate that would work. I got the carbs back on a few days ago. Today the Dyna ignition showed up.



Also thank you Cal for the pointers in installing this. First thing I did was remove the points cover and rotate the motor to TDC for either 1 or 4. I removed the tappet covers for 1 and checked them and they were tight so I went around again and both were loose. So I knew this was where I wanted to be. I removed the 10mm bolt in the center and the larger nut, then removed the three screws and took out the points plate and disconnected the wires. I removed the advancer unit and took off the center piece (can't recall it's name). I grabbed the new one that came with the kit and installed it. This is where I made my first mistake. I did not pay attention to where the magnet was and didn't notice the little "1" stamped into it. I also didn't read the directions closely enough. So at first I was at least 180 out. I ended up figuring this out and righting the situation. Then I installed the Dyna plate and used a test light to try to make sure the timing was set correctly. The mistake I made here was that I set it for 1/4 at "T" with the advancer rotated clockwise. The directions tell you to use the timing marks about a 1/2" to the right of this. If you use the T then you run out of room on the Dyna plate to get things set up. Once I figured that out, then I rotated it again to the correct timing mark with advance and the light came on right where it should. When I went to check it for 2/3 the timing mark was off by just a bit but I was able to correct this by loosening the sensor for 2/3 and rotating it slightly. I had great spark (especially at 4 which was a big problem all along). I put new plugs in it and it fired right up. I have not put a timing light to it yet but hope to tomorrow.



So...what's next? Vacuum sync for the carbs?

[calj737]

Apparently, my advice was not that good if you struggled 

Yes, definitely a vac-synch to get that sweet ride purring like a fat-cat!

[harisuluv]

Cool, your welcome, ever get stuck feel free to call or PM me again.

[riverfever]

Well I got my license today, some insurance, and some temp tags. Tonight I took the bike for it's first real ride with me. This was only about a 20 mile ride but it sure was fun after all the work this winter. However, I did notice more issues while riding the bike than I previously had while it idled in the garage (which makes sense). One thing I noticed is that there seems to be what I would describe as just dead spots in the carbs. When I'm in third gear at 4 grand, and roll off the throttle in a turn, I have to grab a lot of throttle afterwards. If I am gentle with it, the motor wants to fall on it's face. Also...if I'm in town in third gear (30mph speed limit) the motor will just bobble. Now...I've already spoken to Cal and he said I still need to get a vacuum sync and I plan on doing that hopefully this next week. I'm sure that will make a huge difference. Cal also told me that I am riding the motorcycle like a sissy (too low rpm and too low gear). The other thing I noticed is that there is a little bit of oil coming from the head gasket. It's not a ton and I'm not surprised. This is something that will get taken care of when the motor gets pulled.

[goldarrow]

The bike likes to be shifted.  So shift a lot and ride hard keeping the rpm up. Good clutch and carbs sync and it will give you much fun.  Midrange throttle tend to be flat, drop in 650 cam will help a lot.  I have them on my 2 550's!

[Tews19]

Now...I've already spoken to Cal and he said I still need to get a vacuum sync and I plan on doing that hopefully this next week. I'm sure that will make a huge difference. Cal also told me that I am riding the motorcycle like a sissy (too low rpm and too low gear). The other thing I noticed is that there is a little bit of oil coming from the head gasket. It's not a ton and I'm not surprised. This is something that will get taken care of when the motor gets pulled.

Spot on! Did he say that some vagisil will cure your ailment?  Lol just busting balls. Cal is correct though.  Sync those carbs asap. It will make a world of difference.

[riverfever]

Haha!! He did not mention Vagisil but it's for sure something I would have mentioned.

[calj737]

Cal also told me that I am riding the motorcycle like a sissy (too low rpm and too highlow gear).

Fixed that

Spot on! Did he say that some vagisil will cure your ailment?
[/quote]

No, but I did pack up some tampons that I'm sending in the AM. New handle:RiverSissy?

[riverfever]

Oh that's what I meant.

I've never owned one of these old bikes so I don't know how to ride them. I'm used to riding bicycles. I just hope that the riding position on this doesn't aggravate my pinched nerve or it could be a game changer.