Topic: Help adjusting the clutch on a 72 CB750 K2

[edwardmorris]

Ok, so I've managed to get it to start without giving me too much trouble, still working out some issues with the fuel lines, but anyway, once its running, it sounds and runs good. One the day it was delivered, I was informed that the clutch needed work, and when I shifted into first with the bike running, it immediately shut off, no scratches screams or noises. Two days ago after updating fuel lines and getting it running, I tried to shift and it made a loud CRAAAAANK noise and didn't shift, but didn't shut off either. I've left it alone since, and been searching on these forums on how to get it to set right. There was one good article but it mentioned needing some sort of honda specialized tool to get the clutch out, whereas another guide just used a chisel to knock it out (probably not smart for an inexperienced guy like me). There was also mention of needing impact drivers for adjusting the clutch? Just looking for some good starting point tips and what tools exactly to have at hand before attempting this....

[HondaMan]

When these wet clutches sit still for a long time, they squeeze all their oil out of the cork plates, and stick together. Like they were glued together. Like they don't work anymore, stuck together.

There are some ways of "breaking it loose", but all of them will take some of the cork off the plates in the process. The very best way to do it: take off the clutch cover and remove the clutch pack, separate the plates and soak them in oil overnight. Then put it back together and it will shift MUCH better, and won't fight back. 

If you need an individual clutch cover gasket, they are available from places like Z1 Enterprises (nice ones) or some of the other, smaller, CB750 parts suppliers online.

[greenjeans]

Soak the clutch steels and corks in oil as HondaMan said.   I usually sand my steels if they are rusty with some wet/dry sandpaper and some
WD40 or something.  I usually soak things for a few days.    You don't need a special clutch tool.  Here is my "poorman's" clutch tool that I've
used for many years.   

It's a 1 1/16" socket with a piece of welding rod (with the flux removed) bent to fit into the socket.

[edwardmorris]

Thanks, that poorman's tool looks great, will pick up that sized socket and see if I can make myself one too. Just tinkering around some more today, I had the bike up on a jack to keep it vertical to see if it helps with the nasty air bubbles in the fuel line issue I've been having because of the bike leaning too much on that hideous bobber kickstand it came with. Not sure if this is the case, but my guess is that some oil got to wherever it needed to be for the clutch to shift correctly and it did, no scream, no scratch, no crank and it didn't even shut off! But the REAL issue with it now showed up. There is practically no "friction zone". I let it all the way out and it was baaarely engaged, just to move at a turtle's pace. Letting the header cool off now so I can open it up and see whats the inside story there. I know I WILL need to open it up and soak it soon, but if I could get it to engage correctly before doing that, it would be awesome. On the downside, I noticed a popping sound on the engine. Searched around, and someone else had that issue and it turned out it was one or two pistons not firing. Need to check that once it cools down, and start a new thread instead of hijacking this one

[lucky]

Lets not go into scared child mode yet.
A clutch cannot really be adjusted. Only the position where the clutch engages can be adjusted.
You need to get a shop manual so you can learn how to adjust the clutch engagement.

[HondaMan]

Soak the clutch steels and corks in oil as HondaMan said.   I usually sand my steels if they are rusty with some wet/dry sandpaper and some
WD40 or something.  I usually soak things for a few days.    You don't need a special clutch tool.  Here is my "poorman's" clutch tool that I've
used for many years.   

It's a 1 1/16" socket with a piece of welding rod (with the flux removed) bent to fit into the socket.

Cool idea, Greenjeans!

[edwardmorris]

Completely forgot about this thread. I did manage to find the clutch adjustment instructions in the shop manual and did everything to the book. Clutch lever now feels a LOT better. Started her up, took a while to warm up then as I tried shifting, the bike shut off once I had the clutch fully pulled. Also noticed that #1 pipe was cold as frozen hell while the other three are hot as hell. Decided that it is time I let things be, wait for Hondaman's book to ship, beg borrow buy all the tools I need and just crack it open end to end. Will start posting like crazy once I have a start.

Schwarzenegger in Junior: "Luck is for the ill prepared"

So pleeeease, wish me luck

[HondaMan]

Schwarzenegger in Junior: "Luck is for the ill prepared"

So pleeeease, wish me luck

You won't need luck: just some perserverence, and some more posts.