Topic: Rear Sets solutions

[Matt Hubbell]

Dose anyone hear have some good ideas about rear sets.

[StevieMac]

Errrr, well, depends what you mean by good ideas?  Do you want to buy them? Make them?  Make something from a different bike fit?

The RASK ones IMO put the pegs a little too high for my liking and they are pricey. 

You can buy a set of sport bike rearsets from a wrecker and make mounting brackets to adapt to your frame or you can make your own from scratch.  I made mine.  You can see pics in my gallery.

[cmorgan47]

if you're looking to buy there's some options here and here.


ever since swtching to cafe bars, i desperately need a set on my 400.  haven't yet decided what i'm going to do.

[Matt Hubbell]

Thanks, those are cool rear sets you made Steve, are you a machinist? I can weld, but that is about it.

[StevieMac]

Thanks, those are cool rear sets you made Steve, are you a machinist? I can weld, but that is about it.

Thanks dude.  No, I'm not a machinist.  The pegs are aftermarket sport bike pegs that I modified with a hacksaw, drill bit and tap.
Everything else is just made out of steel.  No fancy tools other than an angle grinder, dinky little drill press and a mig welder.

If you can cut, drill and weld steel you can make what I did.

[Matt Hubbell]

Yeah, that is a very nice job, I like the shifter linkage and the way you set up the brake as well, good thinking. I guess I will have to try an set somthing up like you did.

[cmorgan47]

StevieMac, do you know how far back/up those are?

also, you're the guy who relocated the battery under the cowl right?  that's pretty badass.  might try to steal the idea over the winter.

[StevieMac]

Half the battle is being willing to try    

If you can weld it's really not very complicated IMO.  Let me know if I can be of further assistance.

[StevieMac]

StevieMac, do you know how far back/up those are?

I just ran outside to look.....  Obviously I don't have the stock peg there for comparison but measuring from the center of the motor mount bolt the stock pegs mount to, I'd say:  back = +/- 5.25", up = +/- 1.5"

So not all that high but very comfortable for me actually.  The new pegs don't stick out nearly as far as the stockers so I should have lots of ground clearance.  Not that I'm that much of a peg scraper on the street anyway.

The hardest part for me was probably deciding exactly where I wanted the pegs to be.  Especially since my seat wasn't done and I didn't have the final handle bars yet!   I found an old Motorcyclist magazine that showed the measurements between handle bars > seat > pegs on some popular sport bike.  I measured mine out to try to get close to a CBR600 as I know those are relatively comfy.  Luckily that worked out great!

also, you're the guy who relocated the battery under the cowl right?  that's pretty badass.  might try to steal the idea over the winter.

Yep, that's me.  FYI: Gel batteries are more expensive but they are smaller!

[cmorgan47]

Yep, that's me.  FYI: Gel batteries are more expensive but they are smaller!

that won you my vote this month.

[StevieMac]

that won you my vote this month.

Thanks 

[Rocking-M]

Hey StevieMac, wonder about using heim joints and making that linkage adjustable?
Also, the shifter section that mounts to the foot rest, how did you make the pivot there?
With the 77 I have a pretty good block to decide where exactly I want to mount mine,
can you steer me to that article you read? Thanks,

[StevieMac]

Hey StevieMac, wonder about using heim joints and making that linkage adjustable?
Also, the shifter section that mounts to the foot rest, how did you make the pivot there?
With the 77 I have a pretty good block to decide where exactly I want to mount mine,
can you steer me to that article you read? Thanks,

Heim joints and adjustable linkage are both good ideas but I didn't feel they we're necessary for me.  if you make the linkage the correct length to begin with your all set!.   The holes in my linkage are oversize to go over a sleeve on the mounting bolt so I don't have any problems with binding. 

Shifter pivot:  There is a 1/2" bolt coming through the mounting plate that the peg screws onto.  The bolt is welded to the back of the plate. With the peg screwed on tight there is maybe 1" of the bolt shaft still exposed between the peg and plate and that's what the shifter pivots on (the bolt). 

I then used a short section of tubing to slide over the bolt.  Then weld the shifter pedal to the tubing. 

Article:  That's a tougher one.  Next time I come across the article I'll try to post the info but my magazine collection is somewhat large and trying to find the specific article is probably not something I'll get done in the next bit.  What I can recall is that it was
'Motorcyclist" magazine and somewhere during the mid-90's for a few issues they included those measurements in each bike test and comparison.

[Rocking-M]

I guess a nylon washer on each side of the shifter tubing would insure no binding?
or is that necessary? Thanks for all the info.

[StevieMac]

I guess a nylon washer on each side of the shifter tubing would insure no binding?
or is that necessary? Thanks for all the info.

I've got the linkage bolts slid through a small section of tube.  The hole in the linkage then slips over the tube.  The tube is slightly longer than the linkage is thick which means I can torque the linkage bolts up as tight as I want and it's only pressing on the tube.  The linkage is still free to move so I have no binding at all.
 
Hope that makes sense.