Topic: 1st timer getting my 75 cb750f back on the road.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I've had to pull my 750 motor collectively about 4 times.  Much easier with the Gordon's frame kit!  I would highly recommend the kit.  Also, you may want to consider replacing your cylinder studs with HD studs.  You can torque them down higher, which may help prevent against a leak.

[Lazerviking]

I've had to pull my 750 motor collectively about 4 times.  Much easier with the Gordon's frame kit!  I would highly recommend the kit.  Also, you may want to consider replacing your cylinder studs with HD studs.  You can torque them down higher, which may help prevent against a leak.

Woah, that's the first I've seen of that kit. So you actually cut the frame to make a portion of it removable? Is there any issue with the frame bencding or moving?

I bought new ape cylinder studs to be installed soon, hopefully, but the bolt I busted was actually one that tightens the top case to the bottom one.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Unfortunately, the cylinder studs are different.  They are the long bolts that seat in the crankcase and extend through the cylinder and cylinder head.  They will allow you to torque down with more force, which should help seal the mating surfaces and gaskets together with the base and head gaskets. 

The frame kits are available here on the forum.  There is a Gordon's kit sold by Ilbikes (Gordon).  The kit is overengineered and will NOT compromise the frame's integrity.  Check out his thread:
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=140644.0

Forum member 754 also makes a weldless kit.  His email address is: dodogas99@gmail.com

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

PLUS the heavy duty cylinder studs are less likely to stretch and cause a leak that way

[Lazerviking]

Are these the studs you're talking about?

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Bingo!

$89.95 from Dynoman - http://www.dynoman.net/engine/studs.html

[Lazerviking]

Okay cool, already have those puppies. Will be working on putting the top end together this weekend. Thanks!

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Removing the cylinder studs can be a trying experience.  You'll want to run a search on methods, which can include heat, penetrating oil, and using two nuts on the free end to create an anchor to wrench them out.  Many times they go down with a good fight (twisting, etc.).  You want to be careful to avoid them shearing off.  Otherwise, you get to drill the broken off portions and then helicoil the threads in the case.  Take you time, and do some research before just jumping in with a vice grips.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

+1 on that advice! last thing you want to do is snap one. One of a 750's life's aggravations.

I used to use Vise Grips at the base of the stud AND double nut them. I now use a stud extractor in place of the Vise Grips as well as the double nut. The stud extractor grabs a little more of the stud's shaft and spreads out the force. Just don't like all that torsional twisting from above with double nuts alone. 

[Lazerviking]

Removing the cylinder studs can be a trying experience.  You'll want to run a search on methods, which can include heat, penetrating oil, and using two nuts on the free end to create an anchor to wrench them out.  Many times they go down with a good fight (twisting, etc.).  You want to be careful to avoid them shearing off.  Otherwise, you get to drill the broken off portions and then helicoil the threads in the case.  Take you time, and do some research before just jumping in with a vice grips.

+1 on that advice! last thing you want to do is snap one. One of a 750's life's aggravations.

I used to use Vise Grips at the base of the stud AND double nut them. I now use a stud extractor in place of the Vise Grips as well as the double nut. The stud extractor grabs a little more of the stud's shaft and spreads out the force. Just don't like all that torsional twisting from above with double nuts alone. 

I got em out without too much trouble. Took a little heat to em and most of em came out pretty smoothly. Only one that gave me trouble was a little rusted where it threaded into the case. Anything I should do to prep that store hole before I install the new ones? Do I locktight these holes? Or oil them? Or anything?

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Removing the cylinder studs can be a trying experience.  You'll want to run a search on methods, which can include heat, penetrating oil, and using two nuts on the free end to create an anchor to wrench them out.  Many times they go down with a good fight (twisting, etc.).  You want to be careful to avoid them shearing off.  Otherwise, you get to drill the broken off portions and then helicoil the threads in the case.  Take you time, and do some research before just jumping in with a vice grips.

+1 on that advice! last thing you want to do is snap one. One of a 750's life's aggravations.

I used to use Vise Grips at the base of the stud AND double nut them. I now use a stud extractor in place of the Vise Grips as well as the double nut. The stud extractor grabs a little more of the stud's shaft and spreads out the force. Just don't like all that torsional twisting from above with double nuts alone. 

I got em out without too much trouble. Took a little heat to em and most of em came out pretty smoothly. Only one that gave me trouble was a little rusted where it threaded into the case. Anything I should do to prep that store hole before I install the new ones? Do I locktight these holes? Or oil them? Or anything?

You lucky bastage! 

I believe there is a thread regarding no leak engine rebuild, which discusses suggested torque settings, order of assembly and re-torqueing as well as what products to use where and how much.

[Lazerviking]

Cool beans, thanks CB, I'll give that a read.

[Lazerviking]

Every step I make I have a question about. Here's today's;

I found a new pivot drum stopper to replace the old one that I snapped and have just installed it with the rest of the shifter mechanism. Everything looks and feels good except that when I try and run through the gears using the gear shifting lever it only seems to go into 1st, neutral and 2nd gear. Am i crazy for thinking that I should be able to run though all the gears?

Here's a video to illustrate my question.

[calj737]

Pretty difficult to shift through all the gears without the engine running and the rear wheel rotating.

[Lazerviking]

More progress has been made!! Cylinders and cylinder heads have been installed. She's coming along and looking real purdy. I'm waiting for new head seals to come in and 2 metal dowels that have vanished somehow. But, unfortunately, my camshaft seems to need replacing as it has a few flat spots on the lobes as well as some pitting on one lobe in particular. I've started a separate thread for my camshaft questions.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=141864.msg1608615#msg1608615

[Lazerviking]

Getting closer after another major hiccup. Whilst doing a final tightening of the head I snapped a cylinder stud.  Luckily APE was quick to send me a new one in just a couple of days but I ended up having to replace the head gasket and that took a little longer to get. Once I had everything I needed I went to work putting the top end back together and things went much smoother. I went to work on the cylinder head components and even installed a new dynoman DP117KHD camshaft with hp valve springs. I only had to take it all apart once(haha) because I forget the valve stem seals   I'm getting quicker every time I have to take the head apart though! I'm planning on doing the final valve clearance adjustments, buttoning it all up and, fingers crossed, putting it back in the frame tomorrow.

Any valve adjustments advice? The dynoman cam calls for .040mm valve clearance for intake and exhaust.

[Lazerviking]

...

[Lazerviking]

Its been a while since an update. Ok here it goes.

Since last we spoke I had installed a beefy webcam and was trying to dial that in. Well what happened with that is that I racked my brain over and over trying to degree it until I gave up and decided that the stock cam will have to do. I don't need to race this thing I just want to ride it and its been off the rode in my basement for way too long.

Side note; I have a DP117KHD webcam camshaft for sale. Haha. Never been operated. PM if you;re interested.

So after that decision was made I timed the stock cam and did a once over my engine and closed it up. I must say it felt pretty remarkable putting the engine back in the frame. It had been over a year before the two had been united. With that done I began installing the rest of the bikes components. New air/oil filters. Rebuilt the carbs. Gave the tank some re-rusting love and shined and polished the whole puppy.

[Lazerviking]

I had some issues when I went to turn it over for the first time.

One was the kickstarter. It wouldn't return once I kicked it. It would engage the engine but would just stay down and I would have to manually pull it back up to kick it again. Uh-oh. That only required pulling the engine, cracking the cases fixing the... yada yada yada. Point is its fixed now and back in the frame. *For all those closing up your cases make sure you wind the kickstart spring properly. A few extra minutes now will save you hours of frustration and knuckle skin.

I installed new euro bars with a new start/kill switch due to my original one crumbling upon opening it up. So currently I'm about ready to fire this thing up. I'll be giving the entire thing a once over tomorrow and then, fingers crossed, I'll give it a whirl.

[Lazerviking]

here's a peek