Author Topic: '78 CB750K Project #2 - Digital Dash Panel w/RFID (Read 16981 times)

Stoli · « **Reply #25 on:** January 10, 2014, 08:58:01 AM »

Quote from: cheftuskey121 on January 10, 2014, 08:37:09 AM

so not trying to come off as an @$$, but what's the point? ...

That is the obvious question, isn't it.

Why do some guys on this forum sink $5-10K into a 40 year old engine to get a 15 HP increase on a $2K bike?

Because they can, I suppose. This project is a way for me to combine my different hobbies and interests to come up with something that I hope turns out to be pretty cool and unique. Integrate the old with the new. And it can all be done for a little more than the cost of a couple of new gauges.

Stoli · « **Reply #26 on:** January 10, 2014, 09:00:16 AM »

Oh .... and the temperature has been about 10 degrees F around here for over a week.

cheftuskey121 · « **Reply #27 on:** January 10, 2014, 09:01:19 AM »

you're right about the engine stuff....because they can. haha.

very cool though, can't wait to see more

ISLAND CAFERACERS · « **Reply #28 on:** January 10, 2014, 09:19:58 AM »

love the build

may need to copy the colour

superb cheers Andy

Stoli · « **Reply #29 on:** January 10, 2014, 09:29:05 AM »

Headlight

The main filament in the headlight will be controlled by the tablet instead of a switch. I will keep the switch in place on the handlebar controls to switch the high beam on and off. The low beam switch will be replaced with this circuit to reduce the load at engine start as well as to enable on/off switching from software. Arduino D3 (configured as an output) will automatically go high 10 seconds after engine start and low 10 seconds after engine stop. That will control Q1 which is configured as an on/off switch for the relay RY4. It can also be overridden in the software to turn the light off during tuneups, etc. There is also the added benefit of a brighter beam and reduced switch wear by using a relay to handle the load.

Stoli · « **Reply #30 on:** January 10, 2014, 09:41:26 AM »

Quote from: ISLAND CAFERACERS on January 10, 2014, 09:19:58 AM

love the build

may need to copy the colour

superb cheers Andy

Right now, the tank and fenders are sprayed with Restoration Shop Black Epoxy Primer from TPC Global. I liked it so much that I kept that finish on my Project #1 bike. I do plan on putting a Urethane (black and red with white pin stripes) and a few coats of clear on this build to make it stand apart.

ZanVooden · « **Reply #31 on:** January 10, 2014, 10:22:17 AM »

I have an RFID ignition switch on my 2007 Roadstar Warrior. I assume its the same RFID control box from Ebay that you are using. I'm planning to do the same on the current project CB750. Although I'm planning to handle the wiring differently.

The way I did it on the warrior was I tapped off the wires to the key ignition. From a wiring diagram I knew which connections were bridged when the Key was in the ON position. I tied each of those wires to a relay that was triggered by the RFID signal. I did the same latch you mentioned.
I tied the latch to kill switch. That way, if the kill switch was in the OFF position the RFID would trigger the relays but not Latch. When the kill switch was in the RUN position and the RFID tag was present, the relays would latch and remain till the kill switch was moved to the OFF position.

Is there a reason for it? No. Not one. In fact on my warrior I have to carry the key with me anyways because the gas cap is keyed. But its kinda fun and cool. I bought some small pill RFID tags and sewed one in the cuff of my jacket, that way I just reach down the side of the bike and the ignition powers on.

Stoli · « **Reply #32 on:** January 10, 2014, 10:45:27 AM »

I love the idea about sewing a small RFID tag in the cuff of your jacket.

Lots of ways to wire one of those RFID things up. I found a thread over on one of the streetfighter forums where they use a solid state latching relay. Same result at the end of the day. The CB750 has that additional switch on the key that has the TL1 and TL2 connections. I assume that is short for "tail light" since that is where the wire goes. Just used an additional relay (RY3) to take it's place.

I'm still contemplating the best way to integrate the engine kill switch. Left as is, it is downstream of the ignition switch so just switches power on/off to the coils. I will probably just leave it as is.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #33 on:** January 10, 2014, 02:37:58 PM »

You can also just by a Motogadget M-lock that uses the same technology.

Stoli · « **Reply #34 on:** January 10, 2014, 04:00:34 PM »

Quote from: CB750 Cafe Racer Fan on January 10, 2014, 02:37:58 PM

You can also just by a Motogadget M-lock that uses the same technology.

Motogadget M-lock = $175.00

This RFID circuit = $25.00

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #35 on:** January 10, 2014, 05:40:13 PM »

Quote from: Stoli on January 10, 2014, 04:00:34 PM

Quote from: CB750 Cafe Racer Fan on January 10, 2014, 02:37:58 PM
You can also just by a Motogadget M-lock that uses the same technology.

Motogadget M-lock = $175.00

This RFID circuit = $25.00

VERY GOOD POINT!!

Stoli · « **Reply #36 on:** January 26, 2014, 04:15:06 PM »

Tachometer v2:

It occurred to me that my first tachometer circuit would have monopolized most of the CPU time by tying the coil pulses directly to an interrupt on the CPU, leaving it to count/process the frequency. This new circuit uses a frequency to analog converter chip and thereby frees up the CPU allowing it to devote equal attention to all of the sensors.

This way, the CPU simply reads the RPM as an analog input between 0 and 5v (the equivalent of 0 to 12,763 RPM). The A/D feature onboard the Arduino CPU isn't that high of a resolution but if I did the math right my tach increment will be about 12 RPM so I figure that should be good enough.

Stoli · « **Reply #37 on:** June 04, 2014, 09:19:03 AM »

Still tinkering on this bike. I switched gears a bit and decided that instead of mounting the tablet on the tank, I'd add a fairing and mount the tablet where the gauges would go. I like the look and it solves a few problems. The first being that these tablets can't be seen well in direct sunlight and the fairing will keep it in the shade most of the time. It is also protected from the rain.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #38 on:** June 04, 2014, 09:22:08 AM »

Stoli,

That display looks really trick. I'm wondering how robust is the tablet to handle repetitive road bumps?

Prez1967 · « **Reply #39 on:** June 04, 2014, 07:19:02 PM »

Very good start!!!

Could you offer some details on your rearset setup??

Stoli · « **Reply #40 on:** June 05, 2014, 01:12:55 PM »

Quote from: CB750 Cafe Racer Fan on June 04, 2014, 09:22:08 AM

Stoli,

That display looks really trick. I'm wondering how robust is the tablet to handle repetitive road bumps?

I guess I'll find out. The Nexus tablets are pretty well made and my bracket mount will have some rubber shock mounts, so hopefully that will be enough.

Stoli · « **Reply #41 on:** June 05, 2014, 01:28:42 PM »

Quote from: Prez1967 on June 04, 2014, 07:19:02 PM

Very good start!!!

Could you offer some details on your rearset setup??

On this build, the rearsets are not really mounted properly yet. They are just stuck on the passenger peg brackets. I will eventually do the same as I did on my first build. Here is a pic (I have since rounded the corners and painted to match the frame).

If you want current pics let me know (will be a few days before I can do that though)

You can read more details on page 3 of my Project #1 build thread:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=117106.msg1384804#msg1384804

This bike will be a little different since the seat height is a bit lower and I think it is very important that you mount the pegs to match your riding position and leg length. I know that if the bracket was an inch shorter (or longer) then the bike wouldn't be nearly as comfortable to ride. Lots of guys look for a universal bolt on bracket but I think the odds of getting one that fits the rider perfectly are slim to none. One of those things you really should customize IMO. I have long legs so I was able to come off of the passenger peg bracket. That wouldn't be the case for everyone though. I'm 6'3" and a shorter guy would probably find them uncomfortable.

Prez1967 · « **Reply #42 on:** June 05, 2014, 01:59:08 PM »

Thanks for the info... I'm 6'6" and it seems that kicking my legs back to the passenger pegs would be comfy for cruising around. (At least more so than the stock location) seat height would play a large roll in placement also. I was just intrigued that you mounted them there.

I'll look forward to seeing the finished product!

Stoli · « **Reply #43 on:** June 05, 2014, 04:45:26 PM »

You might be able to mount the pegs directly on the passenger bracket then. Easy enough to test that out.

I doubt I'll have this bike finished before next spring. I made the mistake of starting project #3 while this bike was at the powder coater and that project has most of my time and attention now.

Stoli · « **Reply #44 on:** June 12, 2014, 04:50:36 AM »

Quote from: Prez1967 on June 05, 2014, 01:59:08 PM

Thanks for the info... I'm 6'6" and it seems that kicking my legs back to the passenger pegs would be comfy for cruising around. (At least more so than the stock location) seat height would play a large roll in placement also. I was just intrigued that you mounted them there.

The handle bars you choose and the position you mount them is also a big factor as it changes your torso angle while riding and since your legs are connected to your torso, that will affect the optimum rearset peg position as well. Maybe obvious but worth mentioning.

avoca · « **Reply #45 on:** October 04, 2014, 08:40:29 PM »

What fairing is that? I like it! I'm a noob, so don't yell at me

Ravie · « **Reply #46 on:** October 04, 2014, 09:08:54 PM »

Pretty sure it's one of these http://www.motoparthub.com/70_52501_Emgo_Viper_Fairing_gloss_Black?src=Google&gclid=Cj0KEQjwtb6hBRC_57Pvyfn66LsBEiQAtlFVu2yQ0saswp5Uc0og2cUsOcvlvP50daMv1eFNHp4rv-IaAt7D8P8HAQ

Stoli · « **Reply #47 on:** October 05, 2014, 04:47:32 PM »

Ya that's it. Just google "Cafe Viper Fairing" and you'll find that they are sold by a lot of vendors. Should be able to get one for around $60.

Made by EMGO. Cheap in quality and price. I don't like it very much. I picked this one up about a year ago because it was on sale for $35. Just put it on this build to see what it would look like. I will go with a fairing similar to this one on this bike but will probably wind up making my own. Maybe use the windscreen.

Cheers

avoca · « **Reply #48 on:** October 05, 2014, 10:07:59 PM »

Quote from: Stoli on October 05, 2014, 04:47:32 PM

Ya that's it. Just google "Cafe Viper Fairing" and you'll find that they are sold by a lot of vendors. Should be able to get one for around $60.

Made by EMGO. Cheap in quality and price. I don't like it very much. I picked this one up about a year ago because it was on sale for $35. Just put it on this build to see what it would look like. I will go with a fairing similar to this one on this bike but will probably wind up making my own. Maybe use the windscreen.

Cheers

Quote from: Ravie on October 04, 2014, 09:08:54 PM

Pretty sure it's one of these http://www.motoparthub.com/70_52501_Emgo_Viper_Fairing_gloss_Black?src=Google&gclid=Cj0KEQjwtb6hBRC_57Pvyfn66LsBEiQAtlFVu2yQ0saswp5Uc0og2cUsOcvlvP50daMv1eFNHp4rv-IaAt7D8P8HAQ

hey cool, thanks guys! I'll try to find one on sale. Not sure why, but I really like that look!

Ravie · « **Reply #49 on:** October 06, 2014, 07:46:02 AM »

Well, I mean... Yeah they're cheap...but there's a reason you see a lot of them. They're neat little fairings. If I wasn't going to use pretty low clubman bars I would consider putting one on my build but as low as my head is going to be I'm not sure how it would work.

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Author Topic: '78 CB750K Project #2 - Digital Dash Panel w/RFID (Read 16981 times)