Topic: Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement

[Nanahan]

I got the rear wheel retaining ring off without much difficulty.  Now how do you get the bearings out?  It may be obvious, but before I get to hammering away I thought I would check here for any advice.  The bearings seem to be okay, but the seal is starting to deteriorate.  Does anyone know if Honda intended these bearings to last the life of the bike?  What about lubrication, or do you just replace them?  Thanks for any info or advice.

[750duo]

If you are talking about the CB750 REAR WHEEL   

There are 3 bearings -Two 6304 ball bearings in the wheel and one 6305 bearing in the drive plate.
There are two retaining rings - one for the drive plate(the item the sprocket is bolted to) - one for the wheel itself

You can get all of them out by driving with a drift punch from the other side.

For replacement bearings you need to get the sealed bearings

6304 2RS----two

6305 2RS----one

Good Luck - Tom

[SteveD CB500F]

Tom - we are just about to undertake this job on Jim Shea's CB750F1 as there is about 1/4 inch movement in the wheel top to bottom.

Does the retainer have a left hand thread?

David Silver supplies bearings for £6 - any idea whether this would be a "set". If not, do normal commercial bearing suppliers recognise these codes?

Sorry for stealing your thread Nanahan but it looks as if we are trying to do the same thing...

[Nanahan]

Yeah, the wheel is from a 74 CB750.  The retainer unscrewed from the sprocket side.  So you are saying drive all 3 bearings out from one side to the other.  Thats a long way to drive those bearings.  Just wanted to be sure before I grabbed the BFH and a drift.  Thanks for the input. 

[jtb]

Steve,  I got a replacement for the inboard countershaft bearing in the motor, it was $3.something US vs $8.43 from Honda.  I have read somewhere that the wheel bearings can be matched for less from any bearing supplier.  I just wish I had tried the same source for the outboard bearing on the final drive shaft before I spent $45.00 from Service Honda.
John

[Nanahan]

I found that the final drive plate just pulls off.  After that the 6305 bearing is easily driven out.  The rear wheel retainer is then readily accessible and once removed the bearings also are easily driven out. 

[Patrick]

SteveD, those look like regular bearing codes to me. I've bought several bearing sets from local bearing suppliers using just the code, matching up the correct bearings for several bikes from the 60s and 70s. I don't think you should have any trouble. Give them a call. I always like to buy stuff locally when I can. It's more convenient for us and it keeps one or more of my neighbors working......

Patrick

[GroovieGhoulie]

How different is it to replace bearings on an F model with the rear disc?  Does it still have 3 bearings?

[Bodi]

"So you are saying drive all 3 bearings out from one side to the other.  Thats a long way to drive those bearings.  Just wanted to be sure before I grabbed the BFH and a drift.  Thanks for the input."
No!
The outboard bearing is on the drive plate, take that retaining ring off and the plate comes off and then the bearing is pretty easy to press out. Both retaining rings have normal RH threads. Drill out the staking punch marks and make or buy a retainer wrench, bashing with a screwdriver in the notch is butchery... but you can still get the rings from Honda if you do ruin one.
The 2 in the actual wheel - you remove the second retaining ring first. There's a collar between the 2 bearings, you can slide it off centre enough to get a punch or drift against the edge of the inner race from the opposite side. Use a hammer and tap/pound around on opposite sides until it comes out. If you take the non-retained bearing out first then you can remove the collar and get easy access to the retained one, if you take the retained one out first you can push on the collar - use a wood or brass block against it it will be ruined if you hammer directly on the end - and get the other one out (the collar won't come out through the hole the retained bearing is in). Both have to come out their side, don't try to push one all the way through, this WILL NOT work!

[750duo]

Tom - we are just about to undertake this job on Jim Shea's CB750F1 as there is about 1/4 inch movement in the wheel top to bottom.

Does the retainer have a left hand thread?

David Silver supplies bearings for £6 - any idea whether this would be a "set". If not, do normal commercial bearing suppliers recognise these codes?

Sorry for stealing your thread Nanahan but it looks as if we are trying to do the same thing...

SteveD   - Right hand thread-   Yes, these are standard bearing numbers. Honda originally used the 6304 z & 6305 z series bearings with a shield on only one side and a lot of grease. It is better to put in the 6304 2RS and the 6305 3RS bearings which are totally sealed on both sides - My bearing distributor (BDI) said they would outlast another 4 PO's.
Bearing prices - I got a whole set for both front and rear wheels (5 bearings) for under  $50 US

How different is it to replace bearings on an F model with the rear disc? Does it still have 3 bearings?

Groovie - Yes, the F model has 3 bearings. The drive plate uses the 6305-2RS and has a retainer -standard right hand thread. The wheel uses (2) 6304-2RS bearings but the retainer is on the disc side.


Tom

[MikeDeB]

One final tip.  With a heat gun, heat the area of the hub that surrounds the bearing.  Makes it much easier to drift the bearings out.

[Jim Shea]

I'm glad Steve asked the Q on my behalf, because I don't understand the answers! God bloke ole Steve... and he's an electrical wizard..